legacycentral bbs

I agree with Michael, your gap is a little large. Yes you may be getting cooler temps, but due to weaker spark from having to jump a larger gap. This can put a lot more strain on your electrical system.

It may be getting the results you want, but not in a way I think is good.

If you like the setup you have now, run the colder plugs but with a standard gap. See how the car feels, and check the plugs to see how they are wearing, and if they're fouling or not.

What part of the electrical does it strain? Do I have chance of blowing the ignitor or the coil? I'll check both and see how hot they're getting, if anything is abnormal.

It can strain the entire ignition system

Any specific indicators? Now I'm kinda curious about pushing the limits of the stock ignition.
if there's "more than enough" power in that ignition, why is that gap setting too far?

Not necessarily.

I don't know how over-designed the stock ignition is, or if it even is.

The main thing I'm trying to get across is that the ignition is designed to produce a certain quality spark between a specified gap range. If you run a gap range outside that limit, then the system is not running the way it was designed.

As I mentioned earlier, you could be getting a weaker spark because of how things are setup. This may be helping you with your detonation issues, or it may be masking you finding that this setup is not the optimal.

Feel free to run the combo and see how things work out....it's just not necessarily the path I would take.

What you said about cylinder temperatures is not correct. My post in the thread I linked to explains what is really going on with heat ranges.

Altering gap does not alter timing.

A wider gap doesn't actually cause more strain on the ignition system; it just makes it more likely that the ignition system will fail to provide the voltage necessary to jump the gap. So if you're not experiencing misfire at full load (i.e. maximum charge density) and maximum RPM (i.e. minimum dwell time), and the engine still starts easily even in battery-unfriendly weather, then your gap is not too wide.

I'm honestly a little surprised you can get away with that big a gap though. Usually when you increase compression ratio you need to decrease gap.

Well, I have been reading this thread for about an hour and all i have to say is go to: http://www.sparkplugs.com/sparkplug411.asp <<-----this will tell you how a spark plug works, and everything you need to know about spark plugs. About the NGK V-Power plugs, this website will tell you the comparison between the NGK's, Denso, and Champion plugs as well as give you nifty charts and graphs on different spark plugs. All I have to say is after reading all this, I'm switching out my Bosch Plat 4's and going NGK V-Power. Happy reading and God Speed.

GT8 wrote:http://www.haloplugs.com

I will be experimenting with these plugs in my vehicles I have. What I will do is keep this forum atune of my results. I too have tried Bosch Platinums 1-2 and 4 and hated them.

those plugs ignore the same rules that the Bosch +2, +4, and Splitfire plugs ignore.
electricity will ALWAYS follow the path of least resistance, and it can only jump to one electrode at a time.
the halo website is making it look like the spark jumps away from the plug to ignite the F/A mixture. a feat which is not possible.
OEs have been experimenting with a lot of different style plugs lately, but most are still running the old fashion design ones, just in different metals.

what about using the colder, BKR7E11 on a lower boost application. say only 10psi (.68 bar)
what would the gap need to be.
I am going to try around .30" - .32"

do not use a colder plug on a low boost application, the plugs will carbon up and foul

boro wrote:what about using the colder, BKR7E11 on a lower boost application. say only 10psi (.68 bar)
what would the gap need to be.
I am going to try around .30" - .32"

Like legacy777 said dont use a colder plug unless you need to. When do you know when you need them? Its easy, if your having detonation problems thats when you can install colder plugs to help solve the problem or when you are boosting High levels of boost then its just safe.
Now if your stuck using a lower octain then you can use the colder plug.
Im just using the basic v-power and gapped to .035". Ive always learned lower the gap for higher boost levels. Im not boosting a ton with mine but I will someday. Right now Im trying to see what works the best.
Ive tried .040" and noticed a slight mis. lower the gap and solved the problem


Now above someone was talking about the igniton system getting weak above a certain gap... Not true. The only thing thats weak is the spark. The only thing done will be blowing spark out and then you miss a fire on that revolutuion. But if you keep it up then you will foul the plug and then have mis fires. Not good (correct me if im wrong, But this is what ive learned)

But The ignitor pack will last forever if its mounted to a metal surface to release the heat inside it. Im not sure what the stock dwell setting are but it doesnt take much to fire a coil pack but if the spark isnt strong enough then you'll always blow spark out.

Once I get my 942.2t running good im going to try out lots of stuff on performance. Ill even be trying out a Megasquirt standalone which Ill have full controll over the spark and see what it likes and doesnt like

fo those of us with frankenstein motors, or people looking for more specific plugs by motor or model.. here is tons more info on spark plug, type, maker, gap..etc




http://www.scoobymods.com/spark_plug_ch ... park+plugs

^^Tons of info.

"The correct spark plugs to use in Subaru engines are NGK V-Powers, part no. BKR6E11 for the EJ22"
- I'm not going to sit here & say all of NGK is bad but I bought some plugs about 3 weeks ago & I started to notice a bit of power loss higher up in the rpm & I checked my vacuum hoses, my intake manifold, my exhaust manifold, & my wiring. Found nothing. Then I pulled the spark plugs (NGK BKR6E11) & found that around each plug, there was a burnt spot on the white. My engine was leaking compression through the plugs & it was beginning to burn them.

I ended up buying some Bosch Platinum 2s (4x) & I literally HEARD the difference the moment I started the car. It started smoothly & it idled smoothly. There were no more random 'pops' & when I took off, the car actually felt stronger than it did with the NGKs (naturally). Then again, I had NGK Platinums in my old 240SX & they did wonders over the previous Autolites so again, not tryin' to bash NGKs here but some of them aren't right.

92 legacy 2.2 150700 miles, i used Bosch +2 plugs and noticed a better performance on my subbie, lower rpms and better gas milage.. i was getting 22-23 miles to a gallon after the new plugs i've been getting 28-29 per gallon, using midgrade because of a knock going uphills here in eastern pa which they have stopped. bottom line, these plugs gave me an improvement......put them in at 147000 miles

Anyone one no what the part number is for a one step colder plug for a 93 l? I can't seem to find one on ngk's site

-This is great information, thanks! Thank god I went with a one step colder ngk spark plug gaped at .028 running 12lbs of boost with a td04! Car seems to be running better!

-Joe

Will a ss and na use the same plug just gapped differently?

There is absolutely no need to go a step colder unless you're running well over 20 psi of boost and high rpm....and even then it's really not needed unless you are getting detonation/pre-ignition or killing plugs way too fast.

Going one step colder will typically hurt every day normal performance and mileage.

-Hmmm, well if I do incounter a problem, I'll let everyone know here and I'll put the other plugs back in!

-Joe

-Well, almost two years later, still didn't have an issue with the BRK7E's.
-Here is are pics of three different plugs i have ran over the years of owning this car. Left: 6E, middle: 7E, right: 6ES:



-Whats weird is, the BKR6ES are my newest ones, which I just installed within the last two weeks. Here is a pic of all four of them:


-As you can see, they all have white tops, with a little a little yellow discoloration. This to me is a sign of running lean. Now, I've been dealing with some issues. Since the new plugs, I've developed a weird idle, code 41, then later, code 22 and 24. Yesterday, I took care of the codes, no more CEL, but I'm still dealing with this weird idle, which still does this, off and on:
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=63 ... =3&theater

-I'm still in the process of trying to find the idle issue but at least the car runs, especially with no CEL. Now with having the code 41 (which I believe leans out the car), since just after the installation of the BKR6ES plugs, should I still give them a chance and see if they turn to a normal color? Or is this a sign that is worse than the code 41?

-Joe

From this chart it appears the only real difference between the E & ES is the electrode type. In my opinion the E electrode (v-grooved) should be better than the standard electrode. But either way, I don't think changing between the E or ES plugs is going to make that much difference.

Hey people, I would like to know what is the best spark plug for my1992 EJ 22E legacy stock.
Regards from Costa Ri.

so if i read this chart right when i go to 10-12 psi i should gap my plugs at .035 instead or .045 where they are now?

Artmancr wrote:Hey people, I would like to know what is the best spark plug for my1992 EJ 22E legacy stock.
Regards from Costa Ri.

Welcome to the BBS.

If you can get NGK spark plugs in Costa Rica, that's what I would recommend.

turbo970 wrote:so if i read this chart right when i go to 10-12 psi i should gap my plugs at .035 instead or .045 where they are now?

It really depends on if you're having any issues/misfires or not and your ignition system.