Firstly, congratulations!
Secondly, you bought the right timing belt. Some knock off brands don't have
the marks.
Now, *MAKE SURE YOU MARK THE ORIGINAL BELT, AND THE MARKS ON THE ENGINE (w/
a grease crayon)* before you take off the original. Then you'll have a
reference to go back to just in case...
If you have the count right, the tensioner set in the proper order, the
marks lined up, and the crank bolt tightened to the right kilo newtons (see
previous posts), then everything should go just fine.
More details: When you get the tensioner off, you'll need a very small, cold
forged, hex wrench to re-set it. Oh, and a very large bench vise helps a
lot. Go *slow* when re-setting it in the vise. Just a quarter turn every two
seconds will work better than just leaning on the vise. Trust me, I busted a
very nice bench vise using cheater bars and trying to muscle it down.
Patience is the best tool with this thing. When you get it set, you'll need
to put the hex in there at a very specific manner. When you come to this
step, keep this in mind: Think about how the tensioner hangs on the engine.
Then think to yourself: how should I put the hex into the small holes so as
that I can reach in there easily and remove it (the hex that is). If you put
it in backwards you'll have to put it back in the vise and switch it around.
If you put it in too deep, the hex will prevent the tensioner from mounting
the engine - but that's easy to fix, just pull it back a little, then try
again. But if it's backwards, you'll have to do over. Don't forget about the
order in which you re-mount it I detailed in the previous post. Big time
important! If you don't get the tensioner back in there in the right
sequence - you'll have to do it all over again...
-Sambo
*'s and all caps for emphasis, not volume
)
-----Original Message-----
From: mike p. [mailto:
ob1poor@yahoo.com]
Sent: Saturday, October 06, 2001 10:44 AM
To:
BC-BFLegacyWorks@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Re: Sambo/anyone-
cool, that's all i needed to know. thanks alot, i really appreciate
it especially now that i see i'll be doing alot of my own mechanic
work myself(expecting a new family member, and money's going to be a
little tight:). just didn't want to mess anything up by not having
it at TDC. the belt i have seems like it would be pretty hard to put
on wrong(knock on wood) because the marks are precisely at the
correct intervals. again thanks. now just have to wait for the
weather or the garage to clear, whichever comes first.
--- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@y..., "Samuel Barrett" <LEVATHIAN@s...> wrote:
> Dude,
>
> Go back and read my previous posts. Forget about the TDC thing.
Just line up
> the marks on the machine, with the ones on the belt, count teeth,
adjust the
> belt tensioner to the left (knees on bumper) with a screwdriver and
tighten
> it down, double check the marks, pull the pin on the tensioner
(acutally a
> small cold forged hex wrench that you have to provide), then put
the rest
> back together and see what happens when you hit the ignition.
>
> Indications:
>
> 1. the car runs a little rough at first but settles down to normal
after a
> second or two - you did right!
> 2. runs like crap - you are off by one tooth, do over.
> 3. you get combustible fuel/air mixture filling the passenger
compartment -
> you used the wrong timing mark on the crank - do over.
>
> No timing lights, no fiddling, it either runs correctly, or it
doesn't.
>
> My previous posts are pretty specific. But I'm leaving a lot of the
work
> (like removing fans etc.) out of those directions. So they aren't
perfect,
> but they should help considerably.
>
> Tis better to ask a question, than to fuxor something up horribly.
Hence,
> there are no stupid questions.
>
> -=Sambo
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mike p. [mailto:ob1poor@y...]
> Sent: Friday, October 05, 2001 7:49 AM
> To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@y...
> Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Re: Sambo/anyone-
>
>
> cool, i was just about to ask about that. thanks. now one last
> thing though i am not too clear on, i haven't heard anything about
> anyone first finding top dead center when they take their pulley
> off, am i to believe that this is not necessary and i could cut
that
> out of the process or should it be done? after this i'm going to
try
> and quit bugging you guys, i swear...
>
> --- In BC-BFLegacyWorks@y..., "Josh Colombo" <jcc189@p...> wrote:
> > Mike if you want to get the crank bolt off that holds the pulley
on,
> > here's what you do.
> >
> > If you have an auto, there is a little plastic plug just behind
> where
> > the motor bolts onto the tranny, take that out, and put a big
> > screwdriver or something in there to hold against the torque
> converter
> > plate, and then get big breaker bar on that bolt. Get a friend to
> help.
> > I did mine by myself, a little more tricky.
> >
> > If you got a manual. Get a friend to put the car in 5th gear, and
> stand
> > on the brakes. While he's doing this, you should be able to
loosen
> the
> > crank pulley bolt.
> >
> > Josh
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: mike p.
> > Sent: Thu 10/4/2001 111 AM
> > To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@y...
> > Cc:
> > Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Sambo/anyone-
> >
> >
> >
> > is there any way to hold the crankshaft pulley in place to get
> > it off
> > besides a chain wrench or the like? maybe say by putting the
> > car in
> > gear? would that do the trick? i just got my cam/crank seals
> > and
> > timing belt and was just wondering if i'm absolutely going to
> > have to
> > rent a chain wrench.
> >
> >
> > ------------------------
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