legacycentral bbs

OK, I am now getting around to doing my alternator and
timing belt. Question...The dealer wanted $353.94 for
a new alternator and Napa only wanted $138.48, should
I just get the Napa rebuilt alternator? I'm assuming
there's some type of warranty on it. Also, the dealer
wants $70.74 for a new timing belt. I'm kind of in a
bind for time, so I'm thinking I'll just get it at the
dealer and pay the high price unless anyone has any
other suggestions (like buying one from NAPA). I
normally would have ordered both items online, but am
short on time and need to drive the car on Thursday
night.

On another note, how difficult is it to get the timing
belt installed? I haven't done it before so I'm a
little sketched on doing it myself. How do I go about
tensioning it correctly? I've got the Haynes manual
which I'll be referrning to, but everyone says that
it's not the most accurate. This has to be done
tomorrow, so any help is GREATLY appreciated. Thanks
to everyone who's already added their input to my
previous email. I've got Samuel Barrett's reply in
front of me, so I'll be looking at that while I'm
doing this. Thanks again.

Go with the UAP Napa one, I ahev been using their alternators for years and
have never had a problem. My local nissan dealer told me to buy a NAPA one
cuz it was the same as they sell...(for my Nissan).

Brian,

I've done a VERY extensive write up of the timing belt procedure. Do a
search on the archives. When I do my oil pump seal this spring I'll do a
full blown write up with pictures and diagrams. We get this question often
enough, and the procedures are complex enough, that it deserves a full
document devoted to it. But in the meantime, do a search on the archive.

Haynes is not detailed enough to use as your only resource for this job.
With the directions in various e-mails in the archive you'll be o.k. Don't
worry about the tension, it has a bolt on tensioner, you will have to
compress it in a large bench vise (take it slow). You'll need a special
tool: 1/16th short hex key - cold forged, to hold the tensioner after you
compress it. Don't pull the radiator unless you feel compelled to do so. You
might want to do the oil pump seal while you are in there - they tend to go
after 140K, and the pump is *right there* after you pull the belt. Oh, and
you'll need a torque wrench that can accurately measure 100 Nm for the crank
pulley bolt. Don't even think about putting that bolt in without torquing
it - could cost you the engine if you get it wrong.

If you get the timing wrong, the chances of you doing physical damage to
engine are low (if you have an N/A EJ22) - but you'll have to do the work
all over again. We are 0-2 on people that have come on this forum asking how
to do it, and were doing the work themselves, and have done it correctly on
the first try. It took me 4 try's to do it the first time, now I can do it
in my sleep.

Where are you BTW?

Only other tid bit of advice for the crank bolt. Add some lock tite to the bolt....was told that by a subie mechanic.

I'm in Oakland CA. In case anyone's close and wants
to lend a hand, hehe. I guess I need to go get a few
more tools, ones which I have already been thinking
about. Any suggestions on torque wrenches?