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According to the 1990 FSM wiring diagrams: B35, white connector, Top right corner of connector in picture, pin #10. Color blue/red (code LR in FSM). Goes between the brake fluid level sensor and the instrument cluster. Ground to illuminate the "brake" warning light. B35, white connector, 5...

I seem to recall reading somewhere (likely here), that it's the Japanese built cars that had the firewall hole pre-punched and the Lafayette SIA cars did not.

I know my '93 SS auto, with a "J" vin, had the cutout.

Yeah. Well aware of that little tidbit.
If it ever get parted out, the MC will get a new BC home.

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I need post facelift corners.

If I need to buy a spare set of headlights to get them, I will.

But please let others that don't have a set at all have first grabs.

If your planning on filling tires and such, you will find the OEM compressor too small. It's not designed for that much volume or to run for extended periods. The volume of air in all 4 springs is likely much less than then even just the spare tire. I have adapted a larger, more traditional compress...

cj91legss wrote: 25D cam seals and the torque spec is 55-61 ft-lbs.

Ft-lbs or inch-lbs?

55-61 ft-lbs seems high for a 6mm bolt.

tkammen wrote:So for the 2 pot rear all you would need is the bracket and new rotors?

That's it. I had to grind a tad, but many report that it's not always needed.

Here is my post from years ago:

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... 3&start=59

Well, I've gone and done it again. Still super busy with work and Boy Scouts (I'm now the Scoutmaster) so my projects have gotten only a bit of attention. But that's not going to stop me from picking up a dream car on the cheap if one crosses my path! https://farm1.staticflickr.com/535/19697337753_2...

Front or back?

Fronts are the same AWD or FWD. Prefacelift has slightly different spring perches, but if you swap a complete strut it doesn't matter.

Rears are different between AWD and FWD.

This is clear in my mind, hopefully it translates to text intact..... Easiest and most immediate reliability for a race car..EJ22T engine harness and wasted spark coilpack. The only challenge is mounting the coilpack and possibly custom length plug wires. I suggest where the A/C compressor was. EJ20...

Use the diagnostic screen on the commander to make sure all your ECU inputs are working and withing range.

Sounds to me it could be the temp sensor or TPS not reading properly. Especially if it happened "overnight".

I also would stick with OEM, KYB, or MOOG. I suspect that ALL of them are actually made by the same (one or two) manufacture and use the same molds, but the cheaper brands might spec their own rubber compound and quality control procedures. However, that is just a guess, with no proof, based on how ...

Using a standalone opens up your choice of components the most. EJ20K heads and an EJ20G intake manifold is a common choice for a standalone as many believe the "G" manifold flows better than later manifolds. Compare your Forester ECU pinouts to a '97ish EJ20K ECU. They might be closer tha...

If it is pushing back when you manually manipulate the clutch fork, it sounds like there is a problem with the clutch itself. A hydraulic clutch is self adjusting, so as long as your confident there is no air in the system, and there is no indication that the master or slave cylinders are bad/leakin...

Here is my suggested build decision-making-process for Subarus. A - Choose your engine management. This can be anything from stock (with or without piggybacks) to fully custom. The reason is that your choice determines what other components you build with. B - Choose your intake manifold and throttl...

300HP is the limit for the rods and likely the OEM pistons too.

400HP is a fully prepped rebuild, in which case these days your better off starting with a EJ255/257 block as the parts needed are all well documented and off-the-shelf.

They look like all post facelift?

The list is long, but if everyone passes or doesn't have funds right now, PM me. Don't add me to permanent the list however.

(Picture of an RS/RA)

"Who's your Daddy?"

(pictures of significant and desirable EJ Subarus - 22B, first Outback, Forester, 'GD STI, Legacy Blitzen or Spec.b, Baja, etc)

Looking for a Post face lift Instrument cluster. ELECTRONIC speedo, either speed scale - will be using a converter to indicate MPH. Either tach, 9K would add a few $$$. Either manual or automatic, can use my USDM fuel/temp gauge background to convert to manual, if needed. So, at bare minimum, the el...

Also, keep in ind the front control arm bushing is different between GD/GG and earlier cars. IIRc, you need to cut a bit off the bushing center tube (or is it add spacers?)

The front struts on '02-'07 sedans are drilled slightly differently to allow them more "slope" to accommodate the wider control arms, but the same upper mount and knuckle geometry. Ideally, you would get struts meant for a '02-'07 WRX or '04 STI. However, many folks get a proper alignment ...

The automatic transmissions also use a dropping resistor. IIRC, it's mounted on the back side of the boost solenoid/MAP bracket.

Mine would be EG33 powered.

Nice clean example you have there.

When I researched this many years back it was the surface finish on the crank that was the problem. It was not good enough for a thrust surface. If the crank was machined toto a acceptable surface for the thrust bearing, the clearance would be too great.

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It's going to depend on your state laws.

Here in California, all they would inspect is proper operation of all the lights and proper operation of the brakes. Plus a smog check, of course.

I think many east coast states are more critical of structure because of rust issues.