Plazma's 4EAT -> 5MT swap!

[Plazma]

if you pull the rear seat cushion, itll be right there on the passenger side. but yes its a white 6 pin connector

Oddly enough at one point the engine turned over but it sputtered and died, I'm guessing that was just the build up of pressure from multiple cranks. I feel comfortable ruling out the Fuel Pump Relay simply because the pump turns on. I'm going to test the pressure tomorrow and see what I can come up with. I have the fuel pump from my donor subie will test that as well tomorrow. I'm trying not to have to spend money on a new fuel pump.

[Plazma]

So it's definitely not the fuel pump.

Tested the pump this morning, it spits 38psi which is right at the upper limit for Subies. When I turn the key to the on position I get a burst of voltage and then it drops to 0 and won't budge.

I hotwired the pump however with a battery charger giving it the 12v, it spits fuel again, but when I crank it, she still won't turn over.

I tried reconnecting the cut wire from the B36 combi meter but that didn't do anything either. I'm also about to try and reconnect pin 20 on the B48 connector. Maybe things are a little different for the 90MY ECU?

Aside from that I'm plumb out of ideas, any one have any ideas what's going on here?

[Legacy777]

Another question I have is about the hill holder and clutch pedal. When I pulled the pedal box out of my old car there was no spring assist on the clutch pedal. In putting the new car together, I left out the Hill Holder for the time being because of the brake line issues, I'll be mapping out those brake lines later so that I can reinstall the hill holder. My question however is, because there was no spring assist on the clutch pedal my assumption is that the hill holder was used as a return spring for the clutch arm. I noticed that the cable bracket on the hill holder is spring loaded so that's what I'm assuming is it's other function.

Then there's one final question. I'm looking at the cruise control diagrams, and it looks to me like the B88 cruise clutch switch has a 12v source from the coil of the B83 connector. It then runs to part of the switch at B88 and Pin 1 from B88 runs to ground on itself. I'm really confused by the schematics that Josh uploaded.

http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/fil ... ntrol1.jpg

The "return" spring is not really a return spring it's just a spring to keep the clutch fork from having excess play and from moving around. The pressure plate is what provides the return force to the pedal.


Regarding the cruise clutch switch, you're not quite looking at it properly. The main relay is supplying power to the Yellow wire with red stripe, this is feeding all the relays, including the clutch relay. The relay's electro magnet will use some of that power (it would be the same as a light bulb). In order to complete the circuit, the other end of the wiring must be grounded. The wire coming out of pin 1 of the B83 relay is going through the cruise clutch switch and then to ground. The cruise clutch switch is normally closed, and so whenever you depress the clutch, you open that switch, which in turn breaks the circuit on the cruise relay and causes the cruise the disengage.

Does that help?

[Legacy777]

Alright, I sorted the ignition issue. Turns out a wire at the starter was missing. What I ended up doing was pulling apart the harness made for the B15 connectors on the transmission, I ran one of the jumpered wires (BY wire I believe) to the starter and once that was done the engine started cranking.

Of course now I've run into the next set of problems. I'm not sure if the amount of time that my car was sitting (appx. a month. I only get 1-2 days a week to work on this) long enough but for some reason I'm not getting pressurized fuel to the motor. I've got power going into the fuel pump, and the fuel pump whirrs up but I'm not sure if it's just old and tired and not making enough pressure or what. That's the only thing I can come up with because I didn't mess with any wires from the fuel system.

What exactly did you do? Can you elaborate?

Just an FYI, the neutral switch has absolutely no impact on the vehicle's ability to start. Only the starter interlock circuit impacts that.

You should not have run any where from the B15 setup to the starter......I don't understand what you did there, can you explain? All that you need to do to make the starter work is jumper pins 11 & 12 of the B15 connector. Those wires are Blue with Red stripe (pin 12) and Red with Yellow stripe (pin 11). If you simply unplug whatever you did and unplug that connector and stick a wire in those two holes, the car should crank over.

Your fuel issue may be related to the ECU. If the ECU doesn't get a cranking signal it won't start/keep the fuel pump running. The ECU gets this cranking signal from the small little wire/connector going to the starter.

Again, if you can provide more detail on exactly what you did, we can try and help.

[Plazma]

Your fuel issue may be related to the ECU. If the ECU doesn't get a cranking signal it won't start/keep the fuel pump running. The ECU gets this cranking signal from the small little wire/connector going to the starter.

Again, if you can provide more detail on exactly what you did, we can try and help.

You were right! Major breakthrough and a small set back! I found the Crank Sensor wire. I guess I tucked it away so well that I completely forgot about it lol . I cranked it after jumping the neutral switch like you said, and then hooking up the crank sensor. Turned over like a champ!

But as with all things, one problem is solved and another arises. Once the car turned over it started racing, as though it was WOT but I was not stepping on the gas pedal at all. Would this be some crossed wire in the ignition harness?

[Legacy777]

I would check to make sure the accelerator cable is not kinked and seated properly. Also check whether the stops are fully seated at the pedal and throttle plate. I'd start by checking whether the throttle plate is fully closed or not.

If the throttle plate is fully closed then there may be something going on with the IAC valve. Also, check if your throttle body has a bypass screw around the throttle plate

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/tb/

[Plazma]

I would check to make sure the accelerator cable is not kinked and seated properly. Also check whether the stops are fully seated at the pedal and throttle plate. I'd start by checking whether the throttle plate is fully closed or not.

If the throttle plate is fully closed then there may be something going on with the IAC valve. Also, check if your throttle body has a bypass screw around the throttle plate

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru/images/tb/

Thanks Josh, I started with the most obvious, did I seat the pedal properly. No I didn't, the lip of the guid wasn't properly seated creating undue tension on the cable. I unbolted and properly reseated, everything worked out fine after that. There's some fine tuning I need to do with the clutch cable, and the elevation of the pedal but other than that this swap is pretty much over.

Out of curiosity what did you do for your shifter boot? I'm working on putting together the interior but I never liked the old rubber accordion. I saw you have a custom shift boot in your parts list Josh, but how does it work with the 90MY does it use the same mounting setup? I'm debating on seeing if I can fit one of the older model WRX shift trims I think it would actually compliment the grey interior of my Leggy pretty well.

[Legacy777]

My shift boot just kind of sits open and really isn't attached at the base. I had been trying to find a tan MT shifter surround in good condition, but have not had any luck. I think if you can find a grey MT shifter surround base, you can probably make a newer or generic shifter boot work.

[Plazma]

My shift boot just kind of sits open and really isn't attached at the base. I had been trying to find a tan MT shifter surround in good condition, but have not had any luck. I think if you can find a grey MT shifter surround base, you can probably make a newer or generic shifter boot work.

I went to the dealer today apparently that part is discontinued, and there's only 2 left in the nation in the color I need, they're also $70. I'm going to try the local Subaru Wrecking place first, after that I may just take the MT cover I have and wrap it in some kind of vinyl overlay.

[Legacy777]

Yeah, trying to go used or getting createive is probably your best route.