Knock sensor code. cant clear it. bad knock sensor?
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Re: Knock sensor code. cant clear it. bad knock sensor?
Yeah those connectors can be tough. You gotta press the tab and wiggle them sideways.
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91 L-TW Wagon with a full Swap -RIP
92 SS Prefaced, GD dash swapped, 22T/205 Hybrid 20 psi - BEAST!
93 SS Bone Stock Gone!
94 TW Bone Stock Gone!
91 SS 4EAT Sold!
98 LGT 4EAT
98 LGT Wagon 4EAT
92 SS Prefaced, GD dash swapped, 22T/205 Hybrid 20 psi - BEAST!
93 SS Bone Stock Gone!
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91 SS 4EAT Sold!
98 LGT 4EAT
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Re: Knock sensor code. cant clear it. bad knock sensor?
cj91legss wrote:It should read 0 ohms
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Alright wire's in, no check engine light on the dash but when I check the codes by connecting the black connectors 22 and 33 still show up. nomatter how hard I try, the battery could be disconnected for hours upon hours and the codes will still not clear, they exist before the engine is even ran, yet will not cause the CEL to come on while running.
there must actually be NO codes yet the ECU memory will not clear :C any Ideas? why would it secretly store codes but not illuminate the CEL!?
still stuck at 5psi fo no real reason, seems to be less "boggy" when you get on it but still missing 30hp none the less. I havent found any vacuum lines around the turbo that could cause it to operate on only wastegate pressure.. but I'll look again.
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Re: Knock sensor code. cant clear it. bad knock sensor?
no engine codes, drove it for three or so miles to make sure it wouldn't come right back on. if I check the codes with the black connector still shows the same 22 and 33 code, no way to clear it.cj91legss wrote:Yeah those connectors can be tough. You gotta press the tab and wiggle them sideways.
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well this is frustrating
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Re: Knock sensor code. cant clear it. bad knock sensor?
would a bad BPV cause it to not boost over 5psi? what led up to this ordeal was my BPV hose that goes into the intake coming off and letting un-metered air in... could that potentially kill one? I have an extra, but I just snapped my nipple off the intake for it while un-doing the hose :C JB weld it is
EDIT: changed the BPV with a spare and no luck still stuck in limp mode or just cant get over 5psi for some reason.
left the battery disconnected for four hours and no improvement.
Pressure surges to 6-6.5 psi in between shifts from 5psi. (it's an auto)
EDIT: changed the BPV with a spare and no luck still stuck in limp mode or just cant get over 5psi for some reason.
left the battery disconnected for four hours and no improvement.
Pressure surges to 6-6.5 psi in between shifts from 5psi. (it's an auto)
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Car stuck in limp mode... for well... forever...
The other day I was driving my 1991 legacy SS down the road, unknown to me the BPV hose going back into the intake had come off. knock sensor code 22 and VSS code 33 appear, I drive the car home in limp mode, cant seems to build any boost stuck at 5psi, I have a boost gauge.
I replace the knock sensor, and the code still exists, then I replaced the knock sensor wire with a new shielded wire and the code still exists.
my ECU will not clear, code 22 and 33 will be on after supposedly "Clearing" the computer I've tried everything from the "right way" by connecting red and green connectors the whole process blah blah to disconnecting the battery for nearly four hours, the check engine light is not on.
The codes still exist when you check them with the black connectors even after "Clearing" them
This car has never worked long enough for me to even consider having any fun driving it, only seems to run for a few weeks before needing something
Have only been able to drive it for a combined three months before needing a transmission and now whatever this is... and it only has 130K
Do I have to drive this thing for 100 miles or something before it can come out of limp mode..?
EDIT: I ran the car in "D check" mode with the green connectors only to discover a code 51 (neutral inhibitor switch?) but if you check the codes via the black connectors 22 and 33 still exist.
I replace the knock sensor, and the code still exists, then I replaced the knock sensor wire with a new shielded wire and the code still exists.
my ECU will not clear, code 22 and 33 will be on after supposedly "Clearing" the computer I've tried everything from the "right way" by connecting red and green connectors the whole process blah blah to disconnecting the battery for nearly four hours, the check engine light is not on.
The codes still exist when you check them with the black connectors even after "Clearing" them
This car has never worked long enough for me to even consider having any fun driving it, only seems to run for a few weeks before needing something
Have only been able to drive it for a combined three months before needing a transmission and now whatever this is... and it only has 130K
Do I have to drive this thing for 100 miles or something before it can come out of limp mode..?
EDIT: I ran the car in "D check" mode with the green connectors only to discover a code 51 (neutral inhibitor switch?) but if you check the codes via the black connectors 22 and 33 still exist.
Re: Car stuck in limp mode... for well... forever...
Is this car completely stock?
93 Touring Wagon (EJ20G 5spd Swap) -- Finally back and running strong as ever!
05 Outback 2.5XT 5spd -- Now the wife can have her SUV and get in on the turbo Legacy goodness at the same time.
05 Outback 2.5XT 5spd -- Now the wife can have her SUV and get in on the turbo Legacy goodness at the same time.
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Re: Car stuck in limp mode... for well... forever...
Only thing that's not stock is the 3" TB exhaust.James614 wrote:Is this car completely stock?
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Re: Car stuck in limp mode... for well... forever...
Pull the battery over night for at least 12 hours, and try again.
the guy who had the really low winestone SS on the corvette wheels
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Re: Car stuck in limp mode... for well... forever...
robertpaige wrote:Pull the battery over night for at least 12 hours, and try again.
Also, I ran D Check mode on the ECU with the green connectors and it only showed code 51, neutral inhibitor blah blah no knock sensor or VSS code.... if the code doesn't show in D check mode there's no way I imagine it can exist.
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Re: Car stuck in limp mode... for well... forever...
Right. Pulling power will reset those codes. Give it a shot, and report back.
the guy who had the really low winestone SS on the corvette wheels
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Re: Car stuck in limp mode... for well... forever...
I had it disconnected for about four hours today... is that not long enough to reset the computer? If not it seems to hold codes for a very long time, even without power.robertpaige wrote:Right. Pulling power will reset those codes. Give it a shot, and report back.
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Re: Car stuck in limp mode... for well... forever...
connected the battery and drove it around the block, doesn't seem to be boggy anymore... but still 5psi. I dont have an intercooler so it's not like there's anywhere for boost to leak from. I unbolted and cleaned the knock sensor mating surface also. no improvement.robertpaige wrote:Right. Pulling power will reset those codes. Give it a shot, and report back.
I did notice that normal driving conditions kept it at 5-6psi but when you floored it with power mode on it would spike to 8-9 psi for a half second at like 6000 RPM in between gears.
cant find any leaks for the life of me.
I myself cannot figure this out, there's nowhere for boost to leak, in between the turbo outlet and intake it's one solid tube, no intercooler. I rewired the knock sensor but I don't know if it's actually "working" since the code shows up when you check them but otherwise there's NO CEL.
I will try:
MAF cleaner (then maybe a new MAF if it improves)
A new set of spark plugs.
I'll check the continuity of my knock sensor wire,
Then go from there.
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Re: Car stuck in limp mode... for well... forever...
I don't think you have an issue with boost leak. Sounds like your Boost Control Solenoid (passenger side strut tower) is not working properly. They tend to stick sometimes and not allow full boost, mine did and would only allow 5psi-ish on my old turbo wagon.
Can you try and get ahold of a manual boost controller? That would rule out the BCS completely.
The things listed above that you are going to try would have no affect on underboost.
Can you try and get ahold of a manual boost controller? That would rule out the BCS completely.
The things listed above that you are going to try would have no affect on underboost.
the guy who had the really low winestone SS on the corvette wheels
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Re: Car stuck in limp mode... for well... forever...
robertpaige wrote:I don't think you have an issue with boost leak. Sounds like your Boost Control Solenoid (passenger side strut tower) is not working properly. They tend to stick sometimes and not allow full boost, mine did and would only allow 5psi-ish on my old turbo wagon.
Can you try and get ahold of a manual boost controller? That would rule out the BCS completely.
The things listed above that you are going to try would have no affect on underboost.
i'll try and get my hands on a mbc then.. maybe make one? then slowly dial up boost... is there a way to take apart the solenoid to maybe see it sticking partly open... sorry im throwing so many questions at you i'm pretty desparate to get the car working again.
is the d-check mode not throwing codes be verification it's not in limp mode? i unbolted my knock sensor again and started the car just to verify it would activate a CEL, i couldnt tell you why they exist in memory after clears...
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Re: Car stuck in limp mode... for well... forever...
Alright I removed the solenoid and I can blow air through it! through the top nipple which I shouldn't be able to do so maybe that settles it, the solenoid has stuck partially open and is not holding my waste gate closed.
Re: Knock sensor code. cant clear it. bad knock sensor?
I merged your two topics since they are related.
Have you tried clearing the ECU memory with both the green & black connectors? If not, I'd try that. However, I'm not sure a code 51 is causing your problem. Instructions for clearing the ECU using the two connectors is on my site.
http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html
Have you tried clearing the ECU memory with both the green & black connectors? If not, I'd try that. However, I'm not sure a code 51 is causing your problem. Instructions for clearing the ECU using the two connectors is on my site.
http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html
Josh
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
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Re: Knock sensor code. cant clear it. bad knock sensor?
I have cleared them VIA the battery method, with both pairs of connectors (the "right" way) and used D check mode, only showed code 51...Legacy777 wrote:I merged your two topics since they are related.
Have you tried clearing the ECU memory with both the green & black connectors? If not, I'd try that. However, I'm not sure a code 51 is causing your problem. Instructions for clearing the ECU using the two connectors is on my site.
http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html
I have installed a new knock sensor and a new shielded wire, continuity is good between the sensor and ECU.
I removed my boost control solenoid and found that it was partially stuck open (I could blow trough the top tube through to the the waste gate vaccume line, I'm cleaning it with carb cleaner but I believe I will have to order a cheap MBC to solve the issue.
EDIT: Ordered a torbologic MBC to hopefully solve the issue.... car seems to be running fine, doesn't seem to be pulling timing as far as I can tell... so hopefully I wont be adding a MBC in limp mode.
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Re: Knock sensor code. cant clear it. bad knock sensor?
Legacy777 wrote:I merged your two topics since they are related.
Have you tried clearing the ECU memory with both the green & black connectors? If not, I'd try that. However, I'm not sure a code 51 is causing your problem. Instructions for clearing the ECU using the two connectors is on my site.
http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html
Alright well, even with a boost controller it sticks at 5psi then surges to 8~ on shifts, car has no pickup, laggy.
no CEL, but when you check the codes it says knock sensor 22 and VSS 33 D check mode is useless as it doent say there are any codes, I cant clear them and nothing I do will fix them either, it's probably pulling timing in some BS Subaru limp mode. I love owning a car that every morning you wake up and something else is broken this happened overnight after a rain storm, so it probably shorted out or something but im ready to give up on this car.
I would invest in a fuel pump or filter change or ECU but I'm done spending money if it's never going to fix the problem.
It's getting sold. this is overall the worst car experience I've ever had.
anyone in NY want a rustless 130k turbo legacy?
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Re: Knock sensor code. cant clear it. bad knock sensor?
Do you have access to another ecu? Maybe just barrow one for a day and see if that helps.
Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk
91 L-TW Wagon with a full Swap -RIP
92 SS Prefaced, GD dash swapped, 22T/205 Hybrid 20 psi - BEAST!
93 SS Bone Stock Gone!
94 TW Bone Stock Gone!
91 SS 4EAT Sold!
98 LGT 4EAT
98 LGT Wagon 4EAT
92 SS Prefaced, GD dash swapped, 22T/205 Hybrid 20 psi - BEAST!
93 SS Bone Stock Gone!
94 TW Bone Stock Gone!
91 SS 4EAT Sold!
98 LGT 4EAT
98 LGT Wagon 4EAT
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Re: Knock sensor code. cant clear it. bad knock sensor?
cj91legss wrote:Do you have access to another ecu? Maybe just barrow one for a day and see if that helps.
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There are no turbo legacy in Binghamton NY, I've seen one other up here in my life and it had out of state plates.
could leaving the stock boost solenoid connected prevent it from running properly.. even if there are no hoses attached..? either way it has to be still in some sort of limp mode...
Well, maybe I've connected the knock sensor wire incorrectly, I have this poorly drawn diagram of the pinout I'm just curious to know if this is the right side of the plug to be looking at when you wire it, way it's wired right now is opposite to the diagram, maybe me assuming the black wire was the ground was incorrect?
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Re: Knock sensor code. cant clear it. bad knock sensor?
Have I lost everyone's interest...
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Re: Knock sensor code. cant clear it. bad knock sensor?
Black should be ground I believe
Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk
91 L-TW Wagon with a full Swap -RIP
92 SS Prefaced, GD dash swapped, 22T/205 Hybrid 20 psi - BEAST!
93 SS Bone Stock Gone!
94 TW Bone Stock Gone!
91 SS 4EAT Sold!
98 LGT 4EAT
98 LGT Wagon 4EAT
92 SS Prefaced, GD dash swapped, 22T/205 Hybrid 20 psi - BEAST!
93 SS Bone Stock Gone!
94 TW Bone Stock Gone!
91 SS 4EAT Sold!
98 LGT 4EAT
98 LGT Wagon 4EAT
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Re: Knock sensor code. cant clear it. bad knock sensor?
I suppose I'll try re-wiring it again.cj91legss wrote:Black should be ground I believe
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Re: Knock sensor code. cant clear it. bad knock sensor?
I'm going to check the continuity of my "new" $10 ebay knock sensor and see if itcj91legss wrote:Do you have access to another ecu? Maybe just barrow one for a day and see if that helps.
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s DOA
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Re: Knock sensor code. cant clear it. bad knock sensor?
BUmp update, today I finally got a code for the MAF code 23 and 49
abnormal voltage and wrong MAF code!
WOOOHHOoo you guys know what MAF's would be interchangeable with mine? I have a local PnP with tons of subarus
abnormal voltage and wrong MAF code!
WOOOHHOoo you guys know what MAF's would be interchangeable with mine? I have a local PnP with tons of subarus