5 speed swap

[alexandermf]

Posting for a friend:

I'm finishing up my 5 speed swap and I'm having trouble with the wiring. We cut a wire on the ecu for the mt/at identifier, but we must have cut the wrong one because when we tried to start the car the engine wouldn't crank all. I haven't worked with electrical stuff at all so I'm a little lost on how to do it all. We look at Josh's thread and tried to follow that but are still having problems. If anybody has any information of what color the wire is or pictures of exactly what wires need to be cut/ connected it would be helpful.


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[Legacy777]

Did you jumper the wires on pins 11 & 12 for the AT's B15 connector? If you didn't do that, the car will not start. If you want, you can pull back the wiring loom, cut the wires and join them together with a wire crimp/butt connector. They will be the larger/thicker wires.

[alexandermf]

We tried doing that and it didn't work. So then we tried a different option of plugging in the old neutral switch off the auto tranny to one of the square connectors. Joe did a manual swap on his twag and used this option without splicing or jumping anything

Joes:


Ours when we tried jumping those pins josh:



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[alexandermf]

We cut pin 20 on the b48 ecu connector as well and took the shift lock out


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[Legacy777]

From your picture, it doesn't appear that you cut & connected the correct wires.

The thicker black wires with the white & yellow stripe are the correct wires in this picture.

http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/ima ... P_3383.JPG

[tinyturbo10]

So i got all the wiring and everything figure out and she's up and running! still have a few problems, i don't think we bled the clutch right it doesn't feel like it should and the pedal doesn't come all the way back up to the top. While i was doing the swap i also swapped the black interior in instead of the grey and when i was putting it back together i must have not plugged everything back in because my gas and temp gauges aren't working and neither are the blinkers. Did i just miss a plug or is there another reason they wouldn't be working

[cj91legss]

Blinkers wont work if the hazard switch isn't plugged in.

The gauge cluster, make sure all the plugs are in and they make that click sound when plugging them in. If that doesn't work, check the 3 main plugs in the driver's kick panel area, White Black and Blue, usually in a plastic bracket that mounts to the lower ecu mounting nut.

[SILINC3R]

Also make sure all the plugs to the fuse panel are seated.

[tinyturbo10]

Alright thanks ill make sure to plug those in i think i forgot a few. I knew i would with there being so many and the guy who had the car before me made a mess of the wiring back there so it got a little confusing. Im also getting check engine codes 22, 33,35, 42, 44 and 51. How do i fix these. i know what they all mean but how do i clear them? its putting my car in limp mode right now.

[Legacy777]

Have you read the instructions on my site on how to clear the codes?

http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/eng ... l#resetecu

[tinyturbo10]

I tried both ways of resetting the ecu and codes are still flashing. My knock sensor wire was cut on accident at some point and we tried to reconnect it but it seems like that may be the problem for code 22, my speedo cable had just stopped working before i started the swap so it makes sense that that code is flashing, but how do i fix the other codes? It's putting my car in limp mode and I want to figure out how get it out of limp mode so its running properly

[Legacy777]

Have you run the d-check mode with just the green connectors? I suggest doing that next to see what comes up.

I have run across similar occurances where people could not clear the codes when the canister purge solenoid code is active/present. The theory is that "california" spec cars have some special coding in their ECU that does not allow the codes to be cleared if "emissions" related codes are active and present. This is why I suggest running the active (d-check) mode to see what codes come up.

Additionally, I'd check to see if you have a wire in the ECU's B56 connector pin 11; that is the california/49 state "switch".

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/s ... _page1.jpg

[tinyturbo10]

I tried clearing the codes with just the green connectors and it cleared a few of them but 22 33 and 51 are still flashing. I think I'm just going to rewire the whole knock sensor because that wire is pretty messed up. What gauge is it supposed to be?

[Legacy777]

It doesn't need to be a thick gauge, however it should be shielded wire. The easiest and cheapest shielded wire to find is microphone cable from radio shack or similar stores.

[tinyturbo10]

Yeah I was reading about that in here a couple days ago and looked at RadioShack and the kid working there didn't seem to know what I was talking about at all so I'll try another store and see what happens

[Legacy777]

These look like the cheapest options

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... d=29156046
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... d=29162896
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index ... d=29155906

The Audio-Technica is the only one that mentions shielding.

[tinyturbo10]

Thanks I just found some from an old parted out tleg.

[tinyturbo10]

The knock sensor code is fixed but I'm still having problems with the speedo cable. When it's plugged in to the dash and we twist it the needle moves so I think the cable itself should be good but when it's plugged in to the tranission it doesn't work.

That's how it's connected to the transmission. I thought it was lined up with the piece in the transmission and the c clip should be connected properly with the spring and everything

[Legacy777]

I replied to your other thread regarding the speedo cable.