94 A/C Components into a 92

[mikec]

I've got a chance to grab (for free!) any and all of the a/c components off a 94 turbo wagon, to replace the non-functioning R12 stuff in my 92.

I'm wondering though, what exactly I should grab. I'm definitely going for the compressor and the lines coming off the compressor, but will I need the rad and evap box as well?

The compressor is obvious (I don't know when mine last ran), and I want to grab the lines because I understand the makeup of them is different, as the R134 molecules are a different size. But are the rad and evap box fittings the same? I know I'll need a new receiver/dryer when I go to get it charged, but its easy to walk in to a parts store and ask for one for a 94.

If I need the rad, is it just 2 bolts near the top? Those are the only ones I was able to see without pulling the bumper off my car.

Anything else I should know about? I don't recall seeing any posts relating to doing this, so if they're there, just tell me to search and accept my apologies.

[vrg3]

Do you know whether your stock 92 system is made by Zexel or Calsonic? You should be able to tell by looking at the compressor. If the label is unreadable, you can also look at the fittings on the compressor. If both hoses go to the top of the compressor, it's a Zexel. If the discharge hose comes off kinda towards the driver side, it's a Calsonic.

If you have a Calsonic system right now, I think chances are good you'll need to take everything off the 94 in order to make things fit and work.

If you have a Zexel system, you might be able to pick and choose; I don't know if the fittings are the same or not but they do look similar superficially. I'd certainly take the compressor, since the 94 compressor should be stronger. And it would probably be good to take the expansion valve since it's calibrated for R-134a. Since you have to expose the evaporator core to get to the expansion valve, you may as well take that too.

Just so you know, if hoses have already been in use with an R-12 system, they can also be used for an R-134a retrofit. It's brand new non-barrier hose that's problematic.

I do believe the condenser is indeed held in just by the two 10mm-head bolts near the headlight mounting bolts. Remove the two upper radiator mounts with a 12mm wrench and push the radiator back a little, and that should give you the room you need to wiggle the condenser out.

[mikec]

Cool, thanks for the reply Vikash. It does sound like it'll be easier to just pull everything out, then sort through the pieces later. I'll make sure to compare the fittings at the evaporator core and condensor, so that we know for sure for future plans like this.

Just to confirm (I read Josh's posts about his conversion), to get to the evap box, I have to pull the glove box out, but after that, the box is right there and I can see all its mounting hardware?

And I know you've gone over this before, but as soon as I expose any fitting to atmosphere, I have to get a new receiver/drier, right? No chance I can quickly tape the fitting up? Should I be worried about whatever air does get into the system? IE. Should I be thinking about getting a vacuum pulled within a week, or something like that?

[Legacy777]

Yeah, you need to remove the glove box to get the evap box out.

and yes, you really need/should buy a new receiver/dryer.

[mikec]

Thanks for the confirmation on both Josh.

[vrg3]

Yeah, you really should expose a receiver/drier to as little atmospheric air as possible. If you're not evacuating and charging your system yourself, you shouldn't install the receiver/drier until you're in the parking lot of the shop that's doing the work, and they're going to evacuate as soon as you finish.

The rest of the system is okay to leave exposed to air for a while. Just be sure to thoroughly evacuate before charging, and when you start the compressor for the first time (which will be during the charging process), turn it by hand a few times first (you'll do that when pouring in the oil anyway) and then quickly cycle the clutch on and off a few times too, to reduce the shock.

[mikec]

My current plan is to drive to where the donor is parked, and swap it over right away. So the fittings will be undone for as short a time as possible.

I'll remember your point Vikash about waiting to put the new receiver/drier in as late as possible.