Boost fuel cut question
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- Fourth Gear
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Boost fuel cut question
I turned up my MBC a bit today and started hitting fuel cut. But, the bahavior was really weird. The weird thing is, I was getting fuel cut at only about 10psi on the boost gauge (if that). By contrast, my laptop running VRG3's scan tool showed that the ECU was getting erratic boost readings jumping all over from 10psi to 13psi. Is that normal?
I expected to be able to run a stable 11-12psi without tripping fuel cut.
The other weird thing is that the fuel cut only happened about once every 5 seconds. It would cut fuel for a second, but after that the ECU would let the car pull hard again at full boost for a good 5 seconds before hitting fuel cut again. There were never any CEL's, and I didn't have to reset the battery to get it to work right again.
I dropped the boost back down to 7-8 and it doesn't seem to do it anymore.
Basically I want to know if this is normal.
I expected to be able to run a stable 11-12psi without tripping fuel cut.
The other weird thing is that the fuel cut only happened about once every 5 seconds. It would cut fuel for a second, but after that the ECU would let the car pull hard again at full boost for a good 5 seconds before hitting fuel cut again. There were never any CEL's, and I didn't have to reset the battery to get it to work right again.
I dropped the boost back down to 7-8 and it doesn't seem to do it anymore.
Basically I want to know if this is normal.
Last edited by rallysam on Sun Nov 13, 2005 5:43 am, edited 2 times in total.
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- Fourth Gear
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Setup:
* WRX TMIC
* Hallman MBC (plumbed properly between compressor outlet and wastegate actuator)
* Stock turbo, stock fuel system, stock engine management, stock BOV with custom adaptors to fit the intercooler
* Boost control solenoid connected to harnes but disconnected from all tubing.
* Mechanical boost gauge plumbed out of intake manifold pressure(specifically - I tee'd off the vacuum line that runs from the intake manifold to the stock pressure sensor)
* WRX TMIC
* Hallman MBC (plumbed properly between compressor outlet and wastegate actuator)
* Stock turbo, stock fuel system, stock engine management, stock BOV with custom adaptors to fit the intercooler
* Boost control solenoid connected to harnes but disconnected from all tubing.
* Mechanical boost gauge plumbed out of intake manifold pressure(specifically - I tee'd off the vacuum line that runs from the intake manifold to the stock pressure sensor)
I dont know about down your way, but up here the drop from around 60F to 35F does wonderful things--boost comes up faster and even with the Profec B the gauge goes from 12 to 13- 14
that's without dialing up
the max setting.
All else being equal, at cooler ambient temp and WOT the engine demands more fuel, perhaps enough to trigger your cut.
I've got the SDS ecu which eliminated the cut as well as the knock sensor
retard thing. So far, so good.

the max setting.
All else being equal, at cooler ambient temp and WOT the engine demands more fuel, perhaps enough to trigger your cut.
I've got the SDS ecu which eliminated the cut as well as the knock sensor
retard thing. So far, so good.
Subtle (normally aspirated engines suck):
05 Legacy GT Wagon with Cobb chip.
62 Alfa Romeo Spider- had a 1.6 L with 80 hp, now 2 L with 160 torque. Curb weight 2050 lbs.
93 Leg Twgn fmic, vf34, etc. ((sold))
05 Legacy GT Wagon with Cobb chip.
62 Alfa Romeo Spider- had a 1.6 L with 80 hp, now 2 L with 160 torque. Curb weight 2050 lbs.
93 Leg Twgn fmic, vf34, etc. ((sold))
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- Vikash
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You do need to sustain an overboost condition for about three seconds to trigger the overboost fuel cut.
The erratic readings bouncing all over the place don't sound right... Have you checked the relevant hoses (from the manifold to the pressure exchange solenoid, and from the solenoid to the sensor) and the sensor's electrical connector?
The erratic readings bouncing all over the place don't sound right... Have you checked the relevant hoses (from the manifold to the pressure exchange solenoid, and from the solenoid to the sensor) and the sensor's electrical connector?
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
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- Fourth Gear
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I will check those things.
I blew the IC hose off the throttle body today during my rallycross because it was assembled wrong and barely clamped at all. Maybe it had been leaking erratically and that was part of the problem. I will turn up the boost again just to check if the fuel cut magically fixed itself when I fixed the coupler.
Normally if you hit fuel cut due to boost, don't you have to reset the battery to get the car to drive right and/or pull hard?
I blew the IC hose off the throttle body today during my rallycross because it was assembled wrong and barely clamped at all. Maybe it had been leaking erratically and that was part of the problem. I will turn up the boost again just to check if the fuel cut magically fixed itself when I fixed the coupler.
Normally if you hit fuel cut due to boost, don't you have to reset the battery to get the car to drive right and/or pull hard?
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- Vikash
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That hasn't been my experience... but when they're modified to that extent our cars do seem to exhibit varying behaviors anyway so it might be hard to tell.rallysam wrote:Normally if you hit fuel cut due to boost, don't you have to reset the battery to get the car to drive right and/or pull hard?
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
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- Fourth Gear
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More investigation
1) The autometer gauge is reading way less than the ECU. Autometer reads 6psi when ECU reads 11-12psi. That's terrible!
2) The ECU pressure reading isn't jumping around THAT much, maybe it just jumps by 1psi. I'm guessing that's normal?
I guess I am leaning towards thinking there is something wrong with the autometer. Either the gauge just sucks that bad or there's a leak in the lines leading to it.
1) The autometer gauge is reading way less than the ECU. Autometer reads 6psi when ECU reads 11-12psi. That's terrible!
2) The ECU pressure reading isn't jumping around THAT much, maybe it just jumps by 1psi. I'm guessing that's normal?
I guess I am leaning towards thinking there is something wrong with the autometer. Either the gauge just sucks that bad or there's a leak in the lines leading to it.
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- Vikash
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- Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 2:13 am
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Hmm. From what you've said, I feel that you probably shouldn't put too much faith in the gauge's reading.
But seriously... I can't really think of what could make a Bourdon tube pressure gauge do that. I guess maybe some part of the linkage is binding against another part? Or a detent failed? I dunno. You could try taking it apart to repair it, but in my opinion it's not worth it since you'd likely ruin what is left of the calibration anyway.
But seriously... I can't really think of what could make a Bourdon tube pressure gauge do that. I guess maybe some part of the linkage is binding against another part? Or a detent failed? I dunno. You could try taking it apart to repair it, but in my opinion it's not worth it since you'd likely ruin what is left of the calibration anyway.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
Did you knock the gauge really hard on something??
When I got mine it read off, so I returned it and got another one and it reads great. Sounds like you might have a faulty gauge.
-Ryan
When I got mine it read off, so I returned it and got another one and it reads great. Sounds like you might have a faulty gauge.
-Ryan
91 Pearl White Sport Sedan
04 Java Black Pearl Forester XT
2014 Volvo S60 T5
18 KTM 1290 Adventure S
87 Grey GL-10 Sedan (so long old buddy) - donated
97 Toyota 4Runner SR5 - sold
2002 BMW r1150rt-p - sold
2004 BMW r1200ST - sold
2016 BMW r1200RS - sold
04 Java Black Pearl Forester XT
2014 Volvo S60 T5
18 KTM 1290 Adventure S
87 Grey GL-10 Sedan (so long old buddy) - donated
97 Toyota 4Runner SR5 - sold
2002 BMW r1150rt-p - sold
2004 BMW r1200ST - sold
2016 BMW r1200RS - sold