my official ej22t---impreza swap wiring thread
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my official ej22t---impreza swap wiring thread
k well im actually finishing up all the splicing parts and will have to begin troubleshooting because some things dont work yet.
i believe i know what im doing.. heres what we did:
we cut and labeled all of the wires that went to the 1.8ECU. then we took the legacy ECU plugs and are sytematically cutting the ones that have corresponding 1.8 wires so that later we can splice the 1.8 wires into the legacy ecu plugs.
there are a bunch of wires, about 10, that need to be run, we are just leaving the knock sensor and other boost stuff connected to the ECU plugs so we dont have to splice those.
if you havent realized im using the 1.8L engine harness and letting it get back to the ECU like it normally did, then adding the boost wires that i dont have on that harness.
i also have to put the 2.2L turbo throttle body back on so i can use the correct IAC and TPS. wiring included there (splicing the right connectors on)
once that is all done, i spliced all the 1.8 wires to the correct legacy ecu plugs
...but have run into a couple problems. everything is spliced into the ecu, and we put a diode between the ignition switch and self-shutoff control to give the ecu the time it needs to shut off properly. the ecu is getting power, the accesories come on, starter has power, the fuel pump does not... i dont really know how to start troubleshooting, plus i still need all my boost control things before id be able to try and start it.
does the maf only have 4 connectors on it? but 5 spots? like |||_| ?
because the plug has all 5 i believe.
anybody think of a reason my fuel pump wouldnt be getting power..? i checked the fuel pump relay to the ECU, spliced very well, and the wire is even the same color from the legacy to the impreza...
i wish i had some pictures of the progress, but i dont have a way of getting them to my dorm computer.
i believe i know what im doing.. heres what we did:
we cut and labeled all of the wires that went to the 1.8ECU. then we took the legacy ECU plugs and are sytematically cutting the ones that have corresponding 1.8 wires so that later we can splice the 1.8 wires into the legacy ecu plugs.
there are a bunch of wires, about 10, that need to be run, we are just leaving the knock sensor and other boost stuff connected to the ECU plugs so we dont have to splice those.
if you havent realized im using the 1.8L engine harness and letting it get back to the ECU like it normally did, then adding the boost wires that i dont have on that harness.
i also have to put the 2.2L turbo throttle body back on so i can use the correct IAC and TPS. wiring included there (splicing the right connectors on)
once that is all done, i spliced all the 1.8 wires to the correct legacy ecu plugs
...but have run into a couple problems. everything is spliced into the ecu, and we put a diode between the ignition switch and self-shutoff control to give the ecu the time it needs to shut off properly. the ecu is getting power, the accesories come on, starter has power, the fuel pump does not... i dont really know how to start troubleshooting, plus i still need all my boost control things before id be able to try and start it.
does the maf only have 4 connectors on it? but 5 spots? like |||_| ?
because the plug has all 5 i believe.
anybody think of a reason my fuel pump wouldnt be getting power..? i checked the fuel pump relay to the ECU, spliced very well, and the wire is even the same color from the legacy to the impreza...
i wish i had some pictures of the progress, but i dont have a way of getting them to my dorm computer.
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- Vikash
- Posts: 12517
- Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 2:13 am
- Location: USA, OH, Cleveland (sometimes visiting DC though)
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It sounds like the ECU's not getting power. You may want to double-check the self-shutoff control stuff... the diode's facing the right way?
Your friend's laptop should work fine if it's a PC and has a parallel port.
Your friend's laptop should work fine if it's a PC and has a parallel port.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
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- Vikash
- Posts: 12517
- Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 2:13 am
- Location: USA, OH, Cleveland (sometimes visiting DC though)
- Contact:
No, a USB adapter won't work. They do make them for use with printers, but my scantool has no provisions for drivers or anything.
The starter is not powered through the ECU.
Double-check the self-shutoff control. Try just wiring the ignition relay's coil to ignition-switched power maybe.
The starter is not powered through the ECU.
Double-check the self-shutoff control. Try just wiring the ignition relay's coil to ignition-switched power maybe.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
-
- Vikash
- Posts: 12517
- Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 2:13 am
- Location: USA, OH, Cleveland (sometimes visiting DC though)
- Contact:
I mean the coil of the relay. The low-current side of the relay.
You activated the ignition relay and the CEL still didn't come on?
And the ECU's getting power and ground everywhere it should?
Are you confident this ECU is good?
You activated the ignition relay and the CEL still didn't come on?
And the ECU's getting power and ground everywhere it should?
Are you confident this ECU is good?
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
sorry, i got ahead of myself, we still need to check and make sure the ecu is getting power and is grounded properly. we used all of the ground wires from the impreza, a ground is a ground right..? most likely the problem is power to the ECU. i got this ECU from BMXPUNK and i believe the engine was running when he took it out of the car.
k so i read josh's WHOLE 5mt AWD swap page and from what i interpreted he had a problem with the ecu knowing it was a 5mt instead of auto since it was backwards for the 90 legacy vs 92 ECU he was using. the transmission ID wire from the ECU is just dangling black... should it be grounded to 0V? or what? thanks
oh so for the update btw the ECU has power and everything (finally got the diode to work!), it even idled temporarily before dieing but touching the throttle killed it.. gonna check MAF IAC and TPS with a multimeter tomarrow.
(havent done much on my swap lately.. so stuck! gonna try some more soon)
-nathan
oh so for the update btw the ECU has power and everything (finally got the diode to work!), it even idled temporarily before dieing but touching the throttle killed it.. gonna check MAF IAC and TPS with a multimeter tomarrow.
(havent done much on my swap lately.. so stuck! gonna try some more soon)
-nathan
I didn't have any problems, just had to connect the AT/MT identifier wire back together for the 92 ECU. The 92 ECU doesn't appear to follow the wiring diagram in the FSM.
What year and model subaru ECU are you using?
What year and model subaru ECU are you using?
Josh
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
i believe it is a 91 turbo ECU, and the motor is a 93. that ecu shouldnt give me any problems should it???
also, when i tested the TPS with the multimeter it is supposed to go from 4.7 closed to 1.6 fully open... it would go from ~5 to 0 by depressing the throttle literally less than a centimeter.. does this mean i have a bad TPS?
another problem... when i turn the ignition on everything is good, i know the battery is good (tried it in another car) but when i try to turn the starter it poops out and everything dims and its like the battery is dead but its not... any ideas?
also, when i tested the TPS with the multimeter it is supposed to go from 4.7 closed to 1.6 fully open... it would go from ~5 to 0 by depressing the throttle literally less than a centimeter.. does this mean i have a bad TPS?


another problem... when i turn the ignition on everything is good, i know the battery is good (tried it in another car) but when i try to turn the starter it poops out and everything dims and its like the battery is dead but its not... any ideas?
No, you should be fine using the 93 motor & 91 ECU.
The TPS sounds a little fishy. If you've got a spare, you may want to try replacing it, and calibrate it following this procedure.
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... sting3.jpg
What about your starter? Do you know if it's good?
The TPS sounds a little fishy. If you've got a spare, you may want to try replacing it, and calibrate it following this procedure.
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... sting3.jpg
What about your starter? Do you know if it's good?
Josh
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
You've got the signal and ground swapped.
Brown wire is the idle switch
black wire is ground
red wire is power
white wire is signal
Brown wire is the idle switch
black wire is ground
red wire is power
white wire is signal
Josh
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
thats what i figured too since black is normally ground, but the reason i doubted myself was because on my ECU, pin 1 is (ground) but the wire is WHITE, and pin 2 is (signal) and the wire is BLACK.
but ive had it both ways and tested it and the TPS signal is still wrong...
thanks for your help josh ill put it back to that way and triple check (a lot easier to do now that i have a multimeter finally)
but ive had it both ways and tested it and the TPS signal is still wrong...
thanks for your help josh ill put it back to that way and triple check (a lot easier to do now that i have a multimeter finally)
Josh
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
alrighty, thats so crazy that they made the the ground wire white on the ecu and signal wire black lol, that was just confusing.
for replacing my TPS ill probably have to use feeler gauges to set it correct right?
thanks guys, that just threw me off cuz the colors and since the motor and ecu are the same year.
for replacing my TPS ill probably have to use feeler gauges to set it correct right?
thanks guys, that just threw me off cuz the colors and since the motor and ecu are the same year.
DOH i didnt see that F26 thing, i dont have that, and they change colors in that thing! it all makes sense now. whew, thanks i hadnt seen that page before, i had other ones from your site. it shouldnt matter that i dont have that correct? i have the idle switch just running straight to the ECU, and the other three are sheilded only part of the way...
thanks again
thanks again
No it shouldn't matter that you don't have teh F26 thing.
That scan is from this pdf. D/L if you haven't. It's got all the wiring.
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... ectrical)/
Yes you will need a feeler gauge to adjust the TPS.
That scan is from this pdf. D/L if you haven't. It's got all the wiring.
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... ectrical)/
Yes you will need a feeler gauge to adjust the TPS.
Josh
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
OK, so i got a different TPS, put it on, adjusted it so it has continuity at .7mm and not at .9mm, and it does exactly the same voltage readings: 5.10V at closed, gradually to 5.02V at open :p
what the hell is going on!? ive checked the wiring 20 times and i know its right... did i adjust it wrong, or forget to do something?
also, when i idle the car it runs REALLY, i mean REALLY lean.
not positive my 02 sensor is hooked up correct, it read some voltage at first then went to 0.00V which would be very lean, and it feels/sounds that lean.
any ideas why it might be so lean? i still have the 1.8L fuel pump in there (havent put the wrx one in yet) but that shouldnt matter at idle right?
so the TPS and 02 sensors are messed up, that could make it super lean? sorry this is so long, im just frustrated
thanks for any help
what the hell is going on!? ive checked the wiring 20 times and i know its right... did i adjust it wrong, or forget to do something?

also, when i idle the car it runs REALLY, i mean REALLY lean.
not positive my 02 sensor is hooked up correct, it read some voltage at first then went to 0.00V which would be very lean, and it feels/sounds that lean.
any ideas why it might be so lean? i still have the 1.8L fuel pump in there (havent put the wrx one in yet) but that shouldnt matter at idle right?
so the TPS and 02 sensors are messed up, that could make it super lean? sorry this is so long, im just frustrated

thanks for any help