Instrument cluster bulbs and other while-its-out fixes
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- First Gear
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Instrument cluster bulbs and other while-its-out fixes
Have the cluster out, one older posts suggests "small bulbs are a 73, and the bigger ones are a 158" any other part numbers compatible?
Also the speedo's a bit erratic when very cold, how to lube the cable?
Beeper with key to RUN before cranking is annoying, it seems built-in to cluster, good way to disable this? Would like to install a switch or jumper reachable under-dash to disable this.
Also the speedo's a bit erratic when very cold, how to lube the cable?
Beeper with key to RUN before cranking is annoying, it seems built-in to cluster, good way to disable this? Would like to install a switch or jumper reachable under-dash to disable this.
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- First Gear
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Replaced bulbs.
Cut black w/yellow stripe & spliced in a pair of leads ran them underneath the dash just in case want to re-enable the beeper
Removed speedo cable & lubed with Cable-Ease graphite lube. This cable is easily removed from the front diff end, cleaned off with kerosene-soaked rag before lube.
Removed instrument cluster cover without dropping steering column, tight fit, put 2 scratches in lower lip of dash.
Cut black w/yellow stripe & spliced in a pair of leads ran them underneath the dash just in case want to re-enable the beeper
Removed speedo cable & lubed with Cable-Ease graphite lube. This cable is easily removed from the front diff end, cleaned off with kerosene-soaked rag before lube.
Removed instrument cluster cover without dropping steering column, tight fit, put 2 scratches in lower lip of dash.
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- First Gear
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Yes, traced the black/yellow to (+) terminal of beeper & cut.jnorion wrote:So cutting the black/yellow wire gets rid of the beeper?
And how much did lubing the cable help?
No more noise from speedo or needle shake! Easy to remove cable from drivetrain end, no need to touch cluster for this. Cleaned cable with kerosene-soaked rag first, lubed sparingly, excess lube can travel to the speedo & gunk up the works.
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A word of caution to anyone who goes searching for a black/yellow wire to cut:
There is only one that I could find under the dash that was black/yellow (I didn't take off the instrument cluster). It is a thin wire, around 18-22 gauge. DO NOT CUT THIS. I did and I couldn't start my car. It cranked but didn't catch. Well, it did eventually catch -- and then made the noise as if it were going to stall out around 500 rpm, and giving it gas didn't do anything. I spliced the wire back together and it started right up after that.
Just wanted to warn anybody trying to do this so that you don't make the same mistake. I'm sure this will work if you take off the instrument cluster, but if you're too lazy to do that (like I was), don't bother cutting any wires.
There is only one that I could find under the dash that was black/yellow (I didn't take off the instrument cluster). It is a thin wire, around 18-22 gauge. DO NOT CUT THIS. I did and I couldn't start my car. It cranked but didn't catch. Well, it did eventually catch -- and then made the noise as if it were going to stall out around 500 rpm, and giving it gas didn't do anything. I spliced the wire back together and it started right up after that.
Just wanted to warn anybody trying to do this so that you don't make the same mistake. I'm sure this will work if you take off the instrument cluster, but if you're too lazy to do that (like I was), don't bother cutting any wires.
-- David
1990 Subaru Legacy L+ 4WD Wagon 5MT, white with 66k miles -- SOLD
[url=http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread.php?t=66214]1992 Infiniti G20 5MT[/url], White Sandstone with 175k miles
1990 Subaru Legacy L+ 4WD Wagon 5MT, white with 66k miles -- SOLD
[url=http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread.php?t=66214]1992 Infiniti G20 5MT[/url], White Sandstone with 175k miles
yeah, there are alot of wires under your dash, and alot of them go to the ECU that's also under your dash, don't go under there just willy nilly snip snip for that very reason.thefultonhow wrote:A word of caution to anyone who goes searching for a black/yellow wire to cut:
There is only one that I could find under the dash that was black/yellow (I didn't take off the instrument cluster). It is a thin wire, around 18-22 gauge. DO NOT CUT THIS. I did and I couldn't start my car. It cranked but didn't catch. Well, it did eventually catch -- and then made the noise as if it were going to stall out around 500 rpm, and giving it gas didn't do anything. I spliced the wire back together and it started right up after that.
Just wanted to warn anybody trying to do this so that you don't make the same mistake. I'm sure this will work if you take off the instrument cluster, but if you're too lazy to do that (like I was), don't bother cutting any wires.
91 Legacy Wagon, Total Rally Car.
#82 M4 TRSCCA Rallycross
http://www.youtube.com/mobilepolice/
#82 M4 TRSCCA Rallycross
http://www.youtube.com/mobilepolice/
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Yeah, that.scuzzy wrote:don't go under there just willy nilly snip snip

I thought I was in the clear because it was a black/yellow wire under the dash... apparently not though.
-- David
1990 Subaru Legacy L+ 4WD Wagon 5MT, white with 66k miles -- SOLD
[url=http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread.php?t=66214]1992 Infiniti G20 5MT[/url], White Sandstone with 175k miles
1990 Subaru Legacy L+ 4WD Wagon 5MT, white with 66k miles -- SOLD
[url=http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread.php?t=66214]1992 Infiniti G20 5MT[/url], White Sandstone with 175k miles
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- Second Gear
- Posts: 415
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- Location: Baltimore, MD
Okay, I did it right this time. A little more detail for posterity's sake:
This procedure is fairly simple, but it will take about 1.5 to 2 hours. So make sure you have time.
You will need to take off the dash surrround to do this; the cable you will have to cut is actually under the cluster, so there's no way around that. I found it to be very easy to take off if you also take off the top of the steering column trim (you will need a LONG screwdriver) and tilt the wheel all the way down. Taking off the steering wheel is not necessary, but you might want to take off the wheel cover to get the column surround off.
A Haynes manual will be very helpful to tell you where the screws for the dash trim are. There are a couple behind buttons on the dash and one behind the center vents.
Once you get the dash trim out, there will be four screws holding the cluster on. Take those off and yank a bit on the cluster, as you will have to unplug the speedo cable to get to the back of the cluster and it takes a bit of force.
Once you have the cluster out, on the back of the far right side will be a wiring harness with a fair number of wires. The black/yellow wire you have to cut is in that harness. Cut it and your beep is gone!
When you put the cluster back on, make sure you attach the speedo cable. You will have to reach back there and push it in with a bit of force. Small hands with strong fingers help. I highly recommend driving the car down the street to ee if it's connected properly before you screw things back in.
Assemble everything back up and enjoy your newly beepless car!
Can we get the title to this thread changed to more accurately reflect what the contents are (speedo cable lube/getting rid of the beep)?
This procedure is fairly simple, but it will take about 1.5 to 2 hours. So make sure you have time.
You will need to take off the dash surrround to do this; the cable you will have to cut is actually under the cluster, so there's no way around that. I found it to be very easy to take off if you also take off the top of the steering column trim (you will need a LONG screwdriver) and tilt the wheel all the way down. Taking off the steering wheel is not necessary, but you might want to take off the wheel cover to get the column surround off.
A Haynes manual will be very helpful to tell you where the screws for the dash trim are. There are a couple behind buttons on the dash and one behind the center vents.
Once you get the dash trim out, there will be four screws holding the cluster on. Take those off and yank a bit on the cluster, as you will have to unplug the speedo cable to get to the back of the cluster and it takes a bit of force.
Once you have the cluster out, on the back of the far right side will be a wiring harness with a fair number of wires. The black/yellow wire you have to cut is in that harness. Cut it and your beep is gone!
When you put the cluster back on, make sure you attach the speedo cable. You will have to reach back there and push it in with a bit of force. Small hands with strong fingers help. I highly recommend driving the car down the street to ee if it's connected properly before you screw things back in.
Assemble everything back up and enjoy your newly beepless car!

Can we get the title to this thread changed to more accurately reflect what the contents are (speedo cable lube/getting rid of the beep)?
-- David
1990 Subaru Legacy L+ 4WD Wagon 5MT, white with 66k miles -- SOLD
[url=http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread.php?t=66214]1992 Infiniti G20 5MT[/url], White Sandstone with 175k miles
1990 Subaru Legacy L+ 4WD Wagon 5MT, white with 66k miles -- SOLD
[url=http://www.g20.net/forum/showthread.php?t=66214]1992 Infiniti G20 5MT[/url], White Sandstone with 175k miles