Swaybar FAQ

Struts, spring, anti-rollbars, braces and the like.

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Swaybar FAQ

Post by jamal »

Updated 4/27/12

To really understand the purpose of a swaybar we need to know a little background information. I'd like to start by talking about how our cars handle and what happens to our tires and suspension when we go around corners.

From a flat out, on-road performance standpoint, a subaru starts out at somewhat of a disadvantage. Off the showroom, these cars are set up to understeer, and understeer some more. Understeer is when, in a corner, the front tires break traction and begin to slide so you are turning the wheel but the car is not turning as sharply as you want. (technicailly it actually has to do with the relationship between front and rear tire slip angles but we don't really need to get into that now).

One reason for this is the AWD. You have four wheels powering the car, and give the fronts the additional task of steering. That right off the bat means that while accelerating and turning, the front tires have more work to do and will lose traction first.

Another problem is the weight distribution. On top of asking the front tires to both accelerate the vehicle and steer, you've gone and put more weight on them. Guess where that leads.

Now we come to the alignment and suspension geometry. When the suspension moves, the alignment changes. This can be advantageous with proper suspension design. In our case, the suspension design was based more on packaging concerns, cost, and travel for rally. A tire creates the most grip when the entire tread is in contact with the road. So driving along in a straight line or braking we want the tire to be standing straight up with the tread flat on the ground for even tire wear and optimum braking traction. However, if we set the camber to 0, that ideal contact goes out the window as soon as the steering wheel is turned. When you go around a corner with the stock car, the car leans over, the tire leans over, and you end up doing most of the cornering with the outside edge of the tire and the sidewall. Obviously the sidewall is not supposed to be in contact with the road and that's not good for grip. Additionally, when the suspension compresses past a certain point the tire will actually start to lean outwards, which makes the problem even worse.

On top of these inherent handling disadvantages, the cars are setup to push at the limit. This is because it's generally safer to go off the road straight than it is backwards/sideways, and inexperienced drivers tend to have trouble dealing with oversteer. There's also something called lift-throttle oversteer, and it's a common cause for crashed wrxes.

Okay so what do I do about it, and what does this have to do with swaybars?

One part of the solution is the alignment. Start with the tire leaned in (negative camber), and when the car rolls the tire ends up with more tread contact. This is especially important in the front, where we have more weight and more load in a corner. More negative camber in the front means more grip while cornering and less understeer. How much camber you should have depends on the use of the car and the tires among other things. A pure racetrack or auto-x only car will often have at least -3 degrees (stock is 0 to -1) along with stiff suspension and low profile tires that flex less. On a street car that mostly gets driven in a straight line and never sees high cornering loads this would not be a good thing and you would see uneven tire wear. You can still get away with quite a bit though and I daily drive with -2.5 degrees of front camber and the tires look pretty good. That's probably a little much for most people and I'd suggest more in the -1 to -2 degree range for the average road car. It's also important to have the toe set to 0 or slightly in, rotate tires frequently, and make sure all of your suspension and steering components are in good condition.

So we've established that alignment is important, and why it is important, so you can probably see where I'm going with this post about swaybars. If the car sees less body roll, we reduce how far the tire leans over and improve grip. That's where stiffer suspension and swaybars come in.

What is a swaybar?

A swaybar (aka anti-swaybar, anti-roll bar etc), is a bar that connects the left and right sides of the suspension. It twists to resist the suspension on one side of the car from being at a different height than the other side. Swaybars exist to add roll stiffness without adding ride stiffness.

What is roll stiffness?

Roll stiffness is a car's resistance to body roll. Body roll is caused by cornering force. Cornering causes a lateral acceleration, and that force sort of maybe acts through the center of gravity about an imaginary point called a roll center (that's a hint at why roll center height is important). Both the springs and the swaybars resist this rolling force. A cool guy who goes by stretch actually went through all the work of measuring out the suspension geometry of an STi and found that even the stock swaybars contribute about twice as much resistance to roll as the springs.

Why is roll stiffness important?

A car will more roll stiffness will have less body roll and the suspension will load and react more quickly. That is good for two reasons:

1) the tires stay flatter on the road and create more grip
2) the car is more responsive and changes direction more quickly

Great... What does that mean for me?

Swaybars let you add roll stiffness efficiently and also adjust the front to rear handling balance of the car.

A very important rule of suspension tuning is that adding roll stiffness to one end reduces the grip.

The front and rear of the car each resist body roll. Given a constant cornering force, that resistance will be proportional to the roll stiffness on each end, so the end of the car with more roll stiffness will resist more roll.

Doing more to resist roll means that more weight is transferred and that tire does more work.

More weight transfer means less proportional grip.

So a car that understeers probably has too much front weight transfer, and not enough in the rear. Adding rear roll stiffness (or taking it away from the front), will increase weight transfer in the rear, and reduce rear grip relative to the front, making for a more neutral handling car. Another way to put it is that we are reducing weight transfer to the outside front, keeping it flatter, lowering the load, and increase grip. So even just putting on a rear swaybar will reduce the amount of roll at the front of the car.

So then I should buy a rear swaybar?

Yes, probably. To reduce understeer, you need more rear roll stiffness. But to improve grip, you need less body roll, so it might not be a complete solution.

on the front end, a big swaybar drastically reduces roll, and keeps the tires in better contact with the road. That improves grip. It also increases the weight transfer on the front end. That reduces grip. The interesting thing is that our cars roll so much and gain so little camber under compression that a big front swaybar might in some cases reduce understeer

What it comes down to is that a subaru doesn't have enough roll stiffness to keep a good performance tire in good contact with the road. If you want to make the car handle well, it's most important to add more overall roll stiffness. While swaybars are most effective at doing this, you still can't just go out and buy giant swaybars meant for racing because we run into issues with damping and suspension independence. However, a modest upgrade is always a good thing, and 20-22mm front and rear bars are a very safe bet for any Subaru.

In some auto-x classes, only a front swaybar is allowed. If you're in this situation, get a massive front bar from addco or strano. Otherwise, it's ideal to add roll stiffness to both the front and rear ends of the car.

How big is too big?

Well, that depends on the intended use, the tires, and the rest of the suspension.

Ideal swaybar size mostly depends on the tires and road surface. Smoother roads and stickier tires means bigger swaybars. Where a rally car, or ice racing car, on the other hand, might barely need the stock swaybars..When it comes to on-road handling, sometimes need A LOT of swaybar. A good track setup for an impreza with sticky street tires generally involves about 500 lb/in springs and 24-27mm bars. With R-compounds more spring rate is required.


So, if you're looking for great on-road performance, bigger swaybars are very important, and for a Legacy, there isn't a readily available swaybar that I would consider too big. I have the 22mm front and rear adjustable whiteline bars and could not be happier. A stock lgt 20mm front bar and a whiteline 22mm rear on soft is a great combination.


One thing to keep in mind is that bigger swaybars add spring rate that the dampers have to deal with. So if you have 100k mile stock struts, I'd be wary of slapping on some big bars without at least throwing on a set of fresh KYBs.

Okay, well, I think I have a good start. I need to expand on the last few parts a little and update the next post for the newer Legacies.
Last edited by jamal on Fri Mar 25, 2016 6:50 pm, edited 18 times in total.
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Post by jamal »

Fitment:

We've all heard the term that Subarus are like lego and you can interchange many parts between models and years. This partially holds true for swaybars but there are some exceptions. the following information mostly only applies to 1st and 2nd gen imprezas (93-01) and legacies (90-99).

Turbo and non-turbo front bars are different

Because of the crossmember and exhaust differences, a turbo bar will not fit on a non-turbo car as it lacks certain bends. It might be possible to put a non-turbo bar on a turbo, though.

Impreza rear bars don't fit

Our Legacies have a little bump that sticks out of the spare tire well and interferes with Impreza rear swaybars. So while a Legacy bar will fit perfectly on an Impreza, things don't work the other way around. This also probably applies to Forester swaybars.

00+ Legacy rear bars don't fit.

The rear suspension on Legacies changed for 00 to a multi-link setup so the rear swaybars are no longer compatible. Not sure about the front. For the 05+ legacies, the rear swaybar again is different due to the multilink suspension, and the front bars are for sure not interchangeable. This also applies to 08+ Imprezas.

The new wider-tracked WRX and STi front bars don't fit

The 02-07 WRX sedan has a wider track and therefore different control arms and lateral links. This means that the front swaybar has to be longer and so they don't fit. Wagon and non-turbo front bars DO fit.

90-91 and 92-99 rear swaybars are different.

The 90-91 uses a droplink setup that goes into a hole in the rear trailing arm. 92-99 uses the C-links that are found on most newer Subarus. Swaybars might be interchangeable, some 92MY cars might have the older style bars. More details of the differences can be found here:
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=34005

Some legacies do not have rear swaybars

None of the 92-94 L models came with a rear swaybar. Adding one is a really good idea. To do so you need mounting brackets, lateral links, and endlinks. More details here:
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=26464



Sizes

Okay finally we're here. Regardless of the car you have, there are different swaybars out there. Here's a list of sizes that came on different models of Subarus that will fit your car.
These may not all be correct and it would be great if people could confirm the stock sizes

Turbo Front
Legacy
91-94: 18mm
GC WRX/STi: ?
02-07 WRX wagon: 20mm

Non-turbo Front
Legacy
90-94: 18mm (19mm air suspension?)
95-99 2.2: 19mm
96-99 2.5: 20mm
Impreza
93-01 L sedan: 18mm
93-97 Wagon: 19mm
93-96 LS: 19mm
OBS: 19mm
98-01 RS: 19mm
02-07 RS/TS/i: 20mm
Tribeca: 25mm

Rear
Legacy
90-92 non-turbo sedan: 16mm
90-92 non-turbo wagon: 17mm?
92-94 L: n/a
92-94 LS, LSi sedan: 16mm
92-94 LS, LSi wagon: 17mm?
94 Ti/GT/Mi: 17mm?
91-94 turbo: 18mm
95 (all): 15mm
96-99 2.2: 15mm
96-99 2.5: 16mm
95-99 outback: 18mm
Impreza and 00+ Legacy bars do not fit.

Whiteline Aftermarket

Many of the old whiteline bars for these cars have been discontinued and I have deleted them all from the list. What's here is all that's still made. There is no longer a 90-91 rear swaybar for example, so to use one it is better to convert to the newer style lateral links with c-shaped endlinks. BSR19 is hard to come by but if you want one and are willing to wait a bit I can track them down. BSF19 and BSF20 are usually in stock because they also fit the impreza.

Turbo front
BSF20Z - 22mm adjustable

Non-turbo front
BSF19XZ - 22mm adjustable

rear 92-94
BSR19XXZ- 22mm adjustable

note: The size given for adjustable Whiteline bars is the rate at the middle setting for 3-hole adjustable rear bars, and the soft setting for 2-hole front bars. So a 22mm front gives you a 22 and 23mm option (and 22.5 if you use a different hole on each side). A 22mm rear bar gets you 21,22, and 23mm. Closer to the bar = stiffer.

Other Aftermarket
Rallitek, addco, and strano are brands that may have something available.

Bushings, mounts, and endlinks

The bushings in the endlinks and on the swaybars are made of rubber and they flex. That reduces the effectiveness of the swaybar. Replacing them with urethane or spherical endlinks is generally a good idea and really improves responsiveness because the bushings and endlinks aren't flexing as much before the swaybar loads, and will cause the swaybar to load more quickly. The only thing you need to keep in mind is that urethane bushings need to be well greased or they will bind and pop and possible tear apart. Whiteline makes urethane bushings in most sizes and the part number for our bushings is W0404-[mm].

The rear swaybar mounts have been known to break with larger swaybars. Whiteline, Perrin, and Cobb all have stronger mounting brackets available. The cheapest replacement option, however, are the 04-07 Impreza mounts, which are reinforced. They use a new bushing, and that Whiteline part number is W0406-[mm].

As far as endlinks go I'm partial to Kartboy and Whiteline but pretty much anything will work.
Last edited by jamal on Sun Mar 04, 2018 7:19 am, edited 18 times in total.
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Post by jamal »

Expansion room
Last edited by jamal on Wed Sep 02, 2009 3:56 am, edited 7 times in total.
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Post by Adam West »

Nice! I have a chart to add later if I am able. Show percent of increase stiffness per each size.

Rock on, another fine bit of work you've shared! Thanks!!!

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Post by jamal »

oh yeah I completely forgot that. Thanks!
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Post by DLC »

jamal's previous sticky is found here:

Adding a rear swaybar
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Post by jamal »

I have a 20mm WRX rear swaybar and 04+ mounts in the trunk of my car.

Hopefully I can get it to work.

EDIT: Not even close.
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Post by ripplesouth »

Even better than Swaybars is the installation of Bose microcomputer controlled suspension. You get the best of both worlds: Independent Suspension and Maximum anti-roll.
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Post by McFrosty »

I just happened across a 02 WRX rear sway bar and when I was looking at it I was like, "yeah its totally the same." So I tried to install it today... NOPE! THEN I came back to the good ol' LC to get the skinny (I should have done that first).

Anyways, I have a 94 GT wagon and I measured the sway bar on it with my dial caliper and its 15mm. The chart above says 17 with a "?", so I thought I'd let you all know that it is indeed a 15mm which is smaller than I thought they would use on the GT. Oh well.

The WRX rear bar measured at 20mm. Damn I wish it would have fit. Now I just have to see if I can find an 18mm Outback one today since my car is in the air with the wheels off in the driveway.

Research... then install. Now I've learned my lesson.
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Post by asc_up »

Hey Jamal, I have a question. I checked Whiteline's website and I found a 22mm front sway bar for my 91SS, but they only have a 20mm rear sway bar for the 91's. Am I missing something, or does Whiteline not make a 22mm rear sway bar for the 91SS?
-Aaron

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Post by jamal »

Not as far as I can tell. The part number would be BSR17XXZ
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Post by asc_up »

Hmmm ok. So do you think having a 22mm FSB and a 20mm RSB would be ok? I know you suggested having 22mm front and rear, but that doesn't look like an option so far.
-Aaron

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Post by jamal »

well, you could get the rear bar, and pick up a wrx wagon 20mm bar on the cheap. That'll save you a few hundred bucks and should be a nice even setup with added roll stiffness.
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Post by asc_up »

Hmmm ok. So a WRX wagon FSB and then the Whiteline RSB? Would there be a benefit to having the 22mm FSB? Or would it just create more understeer?
-Aaron

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Post by conrAWD »

Bigger front sway bar promotes understeer easier while a bigger rear sway bar promotes oversteer. Obviously you can upgrade both front and rear to create a set up most suitable for your driving style.

Here's a couple links I ran across with swaybar info:

The first from Whitleline showing the increase in stiffness (in %) you will experience with each increase in size (mm):

http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/bulletins/010barup.pdf

And part numbers for Whiteline swaybars that fit our cars:

FRONT:

20mm 10/89-5/94 Legacy/Liberty Turbo: BSF18

22mm 10/89-5/94 Legacy/Liberty Turbo: BSF18X

*Whitleline has different front sway bars for non-turbo legacy's.

REAR:

20mm Adjustable 10/92-94: BSR19XZ

20mm Adjustbale 89-9/92: BSR17XZ

20mm 10/92-94: BSR19X

20mm 89-9/92: BSR17X

22mm Adjustable 10/92-94: BSR19XXZ

Everything can be found in the Whiteline product catalog:

http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/catalogues/WL_0350.pdf

Hope some of this info helped in making your decision.
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Post by asc_up »

No I know. I took a look at the Whiteline parts catalog, but I was just hoping they made a 22mm rear sway bar for the 89-9/92 Legacy.

What parts are needed to convert to 92-94 rear suspension (so I can use a 22mm RSB)?
-Aaron

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Post by conrAWD »

I'm not sure...you might try contacting Whiteline themselves and see what those guys would recommend.
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Post by jamal »

asc_up wrote:Hmmm ok. So a WRX wagon FSB and then the Whiteline RSB? Would there be a benefit to having the 22mm FSB? Or would it just create more understeer?
Yes, probably a bit. Adding roll stiffness to the front is going to load the outside front more heavily, and the rear tires more evenly. That means more grip out of the rear and less up front.

One of things some people (mostly auto-xers) have found, though, is that a huge front bar can sometimes improve front grip and reduce understeer. The theory is that less roll up front means less camber loss which keeps the contact patch in better shape.

I went from 18f/18r to 20/18, Unfortunately that's not even close to enough to see the effects people are describing. The car does have less body roll and is more responsive. Overall grip has not changed a bit. What did change was the balance. Now the car pushes the front much more at the limit, where with the even-sized bars I loved the balance. Although since grip didn't change I guess that shows that maybe I did gain something with less roll, but then lost it with more stiffness. Anyway it's a trade-off I'm not completely happy with.

My suggestion for the 20mm front bar is so you can save some money and try out different things. If you decide after going 20/20 you want to go to 22/20, it's only cost you an extra $40 and you gained experience with different settings. Then, if you really wanted, you could switch to 92+ lateral links and put on a bigger rear bar, selling the old one at not much of a loss.
Last edited by jamal on Wed Sep 02, 2009 3:58 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by asc_up »

Ok. Thanks for the suggestions Jamal. I think that's definitely what I'm going to start with. Thanks again.
-Aaron

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Post by Legacy777 »

I'll add I noticed less body roll when upgrading my front bar. I really haven't pushed the car very hard, but noticed similar characteristics to jamal in that it's a tad more front biased.

I could bump up the rear a notch since it's adjustable, but I too am not a big fan of very big sway bars.
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Post by jamal »

Bump. sli seemed to need a swaybar faq so I re-wrote this.
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Post by RJ93SS »

OK,

I have a 93 ss.

I would like to gain experience with different sizes so i think i'll start with an 02 - 07 fsb.

Rear, i'll order a 22 from whiteline seeming i can bump to 22-24 fsw if i want to after.

i'll do it in steps to learn the balance. i.e - do front bar first, try it out --- do rear bar, try it out---- remove fsb and replace with stock---try it out.

But what i want to know is when i post up for wtb ... 02-07 wagon wrx fsb.... what else am i looking to get? i.e bushings and endlinks.

will stock wrx bushings and endlinks bolt on my car, do i need them for the bigger bar?
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Re: Swaybar FAQ

Post by JDMSLIK »

so you say an impreza rsb won't fit cause there's a hump on the rear of my 93. Which hump? Like the whole spare tire section or a part of it? Just trying to visualize here.....can this hump be .....adjusted.....with lets say a .....sledgehammer?
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Re: Swaybar FAQ

Post by Apex3 »

There is a bump underneath the spare tire well, it's fairly obvious, the lowest hanging part on it. And yes, it can be "adjusted" I'm running a GD STi bar myself. You can cut or hammer, either way you should probably do something to prevent rust where the paint chips off. Also keep in mind that the sway bar will move relative to the car when you lower it off the jack, so make sure you give it enough clearance on and off the ground.
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Re: Swaybar FAQ

Post by 1994BC »

Thanks Jamal for this. You can add 98' Forester front to the list as working. They are 19mm
Also want to add that I pulled a rsb off a 95' wagon and it has the same tire hump as ours and is 16mm.
I looked at a 96' wagon same body style and it did not have the hump, rsb was straight and was 15mm.
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