http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 0386399855
Long story short - If you read the Bosch documentation you'll find that our cars should have the "0 258 005 726 – Three wire sensor with 12 watt heater and grounded case and special 3 slot protection tube" which has the shortened part number of 15726 when in universal form or 13250 with a subaru connector.
Bosch 13250 = Denso part 2343088 = Delphi ES10301 = Beck Arnley 1563020 = AC Delco 213-1272 = Walker 250-23083
If you are feeling randy you can grab a 4 wire sensor of the same design with part number "0 258 005 729 – Four wire sensor with 12 watt heater, isolated ground, 3 slot protection tube"
Same price, same seller
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 0213686414
Remember DO NOT SOLDER O2 sensor wires
Link to Ebay seller with cheap Bosch O2 sensors(49$ shipped)
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kimokalihi
- Fifth Gear
- Posts: 8360
- Joined: Mon Nov 06, 2006 3:41 am
- Location: Tenino, WA
Really? I'm pretty sure I remember buying a universal bosch O2 sensor for my toyota pickup several years ago that had the wires loose (no connector) and I had to solder them to my connector.
Seemed to run fine.
Seemed to run fine.
98 Metro Hatch Daily Driver :)
91 SS EJ20G Engine/Tranny/Diff Swap Build Thread Here
"Your testes are close to your bottom but you still play with them all the time." Jeremy Clarkson
91 SS EJ20G Engine/Tranny/Diff Swap Build Thread Here
"Your testes are close to your bottom but you still play with them all the time." Jeremy Clarkson
The sensor uses air drawn through the wires as a reference signal. On older style sensors the reference air came from holes in the sensor housing, that could get plugged over time. The newer sealed sensors draw there reference air thru the wire strands inside the insulation. The wires are also made of stainless steel so they wont corrode together so some solder won't stick properly.
See second bullet point - http://www.boschautoparts.com/Technical ... DWEB09.pdf
That said, some people seemed to have solved the solder issue by slicing the insulation at a point just below the solder joint.
See second bullet point - http://www.boschautoparts.com/Technical ... DWEB09.pdf
That said, some people seemed to have solved the solder issue by slicing the insulation at a point just below the solder joint.
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kimokalihi
- Fifth Gear
- Posts: 8360
- Joined: Mon Nov 06, 2006 3:41 am
- Location: Tenino, WA
Actually, now that I think about it it may have been that it came with both a male and female connector and I had to cut off my stock connector and solder the new universal one in it's place.
98 Metro Hatch Daily Driver :)
91 SS EJ20G Engine/Tranny/Diff Swap Build Thread Here
"Your testes are close to your bottom but you still play with them all the time." Jeremy Clarkson
91 SS EJ20G Engine/Tranny/Diff Swap Build Thread Here
"Your testes are close to your bottom but you still play with them all the time." Jeremy Clarkson
Interesting.....never knew why you shouldn't use solder...
Josh
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
I actually didn't know until recently either. I thought it was BS so I started to search around on google and found many places that said not to solder it. I didn't trust random websites and forum posts so I kept searching until I found a trustworthy source.
I had to look through about a million PDF on the bosch america and australia websites!
I had to look through about a million PDF on the bosch america and australia websites!