TD's 1993 Legacy SS

[wtdash]

Background:

Edit 10/6/2014: My restless mouse found another Subie on CL (WRX), so this one is going back to stock to sell. Tried selling it as is, and except for a 6'8" guy who didn't fit (but liked the car), had very little interest. One thing I've noticed is the SS is a bit easier to drive w/the stock ECU back in. Cold start and general city driving are smoother (I thought my 5-speed driving technique just sucked!). The RT-EJ20G had a few annoying issues that the stock one does not....but the lack of boost is a BIG missing ingredient in the stock tune's grin factor. We'll see how long the 'Rex' keeps my attention....maybe I'll be back again for an ol' Legacy.

__________________________________________________________________________________________
My goal from the beginning was to find a clean, mostly stock, Sport Sedan, although I was starting to consider Touring Wagon turbos due to the lack of sedans. I would then limit the upgrades to those that are proven and/or that I've personally used. Other than doing Auto-X in the warmer months, this will be my Daily Driver.

As I'd already been down the swap path w/my '90 Legacy (turbo and 5-speed swapped) and a '98 Forester (turbo'd) with limited success, I wanted to avoid buying someone else's project or starting another.....which I almost did w/my '96 Impreza.

After months of watching CL for a clean SS, two came up about the same time: A white '92 and a silver '93. Both had <140K and were 5-speeds. And they were somewhat close>>less than 400 miles.

I settled on the '93 as it had only 2 previous owners and the 2nd owner only owned it for about a month...and had bought it from the original owner about 1 day b4 I was able to grab it. Also, I've had lots of white cars and was glad to expand my palette.

An added bonus was that the 2nd owner resealed the sunroof, which in itself was worth the $$ to me. EDIT: Either they lied or just did a $#!++y job as it still leaks when it rains hard.

I also bet that this will be one of the shortest Build Journals as I know what I want to do and once it's done, I'm going to just drive it (plus my budget is pretty set in stone).

Mods


Summary (current):
- Rob-tuned ECU - "550" tune
- Rob's Ignition Converter
- JECS/Autecs MAF
- TD05H
- NXS MBC
- 525cc Sti injectors in '95 EJ22 Fuel Rails
- STi fuel pump
- '06 WRX TMIC
- Exhaust : 3" TBE - Downpipe, mid-pipe w/ a resonator, and a DynoMax VT muffler.
- Mopar coil pack and newer style OEM wires.

- STi 20mm front sway bar
- AGX struts w/H&R lowering springs
- STI Transverse Link/lower control arm bushings
-Rear Subframe Lockdown Bolts

- Rolled fenders
- Hankook S1 Noble2 - 225/50R-16- Impreza wheels.


- Exedy Stage 1 clutch

- WRX short shifter
- Shifter linkage Bushings
- Kartboy Transmission mount bushings


- STi boost gauge

- RS hood scoop

-Stock SS seats (repaired bolster and added foam to driver's seat)

- Manual Seat Belts
- Alpine 6.5 Type R's in the front
- Pioneer DEH-X6500BT deck


Engine Management:
-Rob-tuned ECU: Ordered 6/1/13 (bought the ECU+chip, already had the 4-2 converter). --Installed 7/18/13

Engine upgrades:

-Turbo:
TD04 - Installed 7/16/13.
==Info: Had it as an extra and wanted to test it, so installed b4 the VF24.

VF24 (from UK) - Installed 8/14/13 - - See below.
==Info: The VF24 appears to be a great turbo to keep lag to a minimum but also hold 17-18 PSI.
--Considered VF39, TD05-16G, TD04. I didn't consider the TD04 worth the trouble to upgrade, although they are way cheaper than the others, and on the Forester XT w/its EJ25, TD04 and 525cc injectors there are people making over 250ft-lbs @ the wheels w/a good tune. The VF39 is probably about the same as the VF24, but the positive reviews I read on the VF24 led me to give it a try. The TD05-16G has the same 90 inlet as the VF11, but I've ran 2 of them and they seemed laggy.


TD05H (from UK) - Installed ~10/15/13
== Bought this 'on a whim' and decided to go ahead and install it so I could get a fairly accurate Dyno run....many use this turbo w/the Rob Tune, etc. so figured it would make for the best comparison. It's very similar to the VF24 and I only think I feel more on top. The VF24 seemed to spool quicker, which is what I'd read.



-Boost control: NXS MBC - installed 6/25/13

-Injectors: Forester/STi/GT 550 / 525cc's - Installed 7/18/13.
==Info: Bought from a Subaruforester.org member (w/fuel pump); dropped off @ local Mr. Injector to get them cleaned and new o-rings for $64.
--Only 2 choices for the Rob Tune: USDM 525cc or UK/JDM 450cc (aka 440's). @ least 2 reasons to consider the 450's, IMHO: 1: It would allow me to run an EJ20G ECU stock and 2: I could run them w/the stock EJ22T ECU if I every needed (it'd run Rich, but doable).

But the yellow side-feed 525cc injectors ('04-'06 STi, Forester and Outback XT, Legacy GT, BAJA turbo) were easier to get and would get me a bit closer to stock STi power levels.

-Fuel rails: '95 Legacy - Installed 7/18/13.
==Info: Bought a complete IM from a '95 Legacy for $20 from CL. '92-'98 all the same for the EJ22, per opposedforces.com.
--Needed '92+ for 525's.

-Fuel pump: STi pump - Installed 6/15/13
==Info: Bought STI pump w/injectors from subaruforester.org
--Considered STi, DW, Walbro - + kit?

-Intercooler: '06 WRX TMIC - Installed 7/16/13
==Info: Bought '06 TMIC from Ebay; Y-pipe kit from Ebay; Bought WRX BPV from NASIOC- The WRX BPV will NOT fit. Used the stock EJ22T BPV w/a BPV adapter and hose.
--Considered Slanty TMIC from EJ20G-era WRX, FMIC, and AWIC. Due to the install hassle, which includes cutting the front bumper, decided to just stick w/the (relatively) easy to install '06-'07 TMIC. Got the BPV w/the hose that runs under the throttle body to the turbo inlet pipe on the WRX. I'll see if I can make it work w/the EJ22T setup>>No Go - too much crap in the way under the throttle body and the throttle/cruise cables are in the way.

Exhaust:
- 3" Downpipe - Installed w/VF24 - 8/14/13.
==Info: DP was too f'ing long; had it shortened and extra bung added for WB (if needed in future). Also, used a downpipe adapter that allows me to keep the stock mid-pipe/axle back.


- Upgraded to a 3" mid-pipe, Vibrant # 1794 bottle-type resonator and Dynomax VT muffler - # 17962 - Installed 4/1/2014
==Info I tried a Flowmaster 3" In/Dual 2.5" out and a Cobb muffler - both were too loud and droned on the freeway. The VT provides a civilly obedient tone @ idle and is barely audible while cruising the interstate, but when @ WOT it sounds like a Subie w/an open system.


Suspension:

-Sway bars: STi 20mm front bar - Installed 6/12/13
==Info: Had a 20mm STI front bar in my stash. - Installed 6/12/13.
--Looking for WRX Wagon (20mm) if it doesn't work out.

Struts/Springs: AGX struts w/H&R lowering springs - Installed 6/12/13
==Info: Bought both from members on here. Shop called and needed FRONT camber bolts to get in spec on alignment. Set @ -.5 degrees negative camber.
== Edit 3/15/14: After noticing some pulling in the front I had it realigned @ a Subie dealer and it did NOT need the camber bolts and drove better. Don't know if the original shop had a bad rack or what.

STI Transverse Link/lower control arm bushings
==Info: Bought used on NASIOC - Installed 9/12/13.

Brakes:
- No plans to upgrade, but have 17" wheels. Figure I'll hold out for Legacy GT 12.3" (require 17" wheels) or even STi Brembos if I REALLY need it.

Tires/Wheels:
==Info: No-name 17" wheels w/225-45R17 Fuzion HRI tires - Installed 6/15/13
==Info: See Brakes. Fenders rubbed. Rolled w/rented Eastwood fender roller and heat gun (see post below).
==Info: The HRI tires are no good for Auto-X. Bought set of Hankook S1 Noble2 (nice name!) in a 225/50R-16 to install on extra set of Impreza wheels. The S1's did very well on a Tire Rack test and in Consumer Reports. Would have preferred the Michelin Pilot Sport AS/3 (latest/greatest AS tire on market, per TR and CR), but they were about $200 more. - Installed 9/14/13

Transmission/Clutch:
I'm not optimistic that the stock SS 5-speed can handle 250HP @ the wheels, but I don't plan on launching or stressing the trans unnecessarily. I have an extra 5-speed from a '98 Legacy Outback that I may swap in, but also would like to find a low mileage '05+ Legacy GT - 4.11 FD ratio (or even OB XT-4.44), and find someone to swap in the speedo gear that's required for the SS's cable speedo.

--Clutch is Slipping - 7/25/13 - Looking @ either a stock Exedy KSB03 or Exedy Stage 1 (15802). Probably use a LW FW I got locally. From what I've heard the Stage 1 has more clamping force but isn't too much - the HD clutch IS TOO MUCH, so stay away from that unless you're looking for a workout.

***Installed Exedy Stage 1 clutch, etc. - see below 8/13/13- 140K miles.

-Shifter linkage Bushings: - - For sloppy shifter (not looking FWD to fighting the PITA spring pins) - Installed w/WRX shifter.
==Info: Ordered from dealer, Part numbers: 35035AA030 and 35035KA030 and 33022GA081 - bushings and spring
-- Bought a WRX short shifter/linkage off NASIOC - Installed 8/15/13. - See below.


Misc.:

- STi (?) boost gauge - Installed 6/25/13
==Info: Marked in MPa, but it works and I know where 5, 10, 15, and 20 are.


- Hood scoop: RS scoop - Installed 11/1/2013.
==Info: Bought from RS25.com member. Looks like I can make it fit over stock hood hole.....Thread HERE.

-Seats: fixing the stock driver's seat.
==Info: Tried '08 Legacy GT seats (see below) that didn't fit.
==Info: Bought set of '06 WRX TR seats - Installed 9/7/13.
==Info: TR seats are too high for my liking - passenger is worse. Back to stock SS seats after adding foam to seat and bolsters. Installed 5/15/2014.
==Info: Drilled out the mounts for the stock 'feet' on an extra set of '96 GT seats and put them on the TR seats (passenger only to test) and they were NOT much lower, which I don't get as they definitely were shorter. Decided it wasn't worth it and left the stock SS seats installed As Is. - NOT installed 6/15/2014.

Manual Seat Belts
==Info: Installed set of '98 LGT seat belts - 9/7/13.

Deck/Head Unit/Stereo/Speakers
==Info: Installed a set of used Alpine 6.5 Type R's in the front - 8/20/13
==Info: Installed a Pioneer DEH-X6500BT deck - 8/28/13

Headlight upgrade
==Installed a Daniel Stern lighting kit w/HL relays and Osram 70/65w H4 bulbs - 9/2013
==Info: The bulbs are BRIGHT lasted about 3 months, but I (used to) drive w/my lights on all the time. Replaced w/some Philips 9003 VisionPlus bulbs, which are OK and should last longer.

PICS-when purchased:






And how it looks now -10/2013:


Maintenance info:
- Needs a pass. side CV axle - boot torn @ knuckle >>Replaced 6/19/21 w/new NAPA axle
- Installed KS from a '98 OB - just swapped to '93 connector - 7/21/13
- Installed new OEM CTS during the TMIC install. 7/21/13
- Extra-S gear oil in the rear diff and transmission- 7/26/13. - 139, 583 miles
- New Left front wheel bearing and CV axle w/new NAPA axle: 11/15/13 and 11/30/13.
-Alignment 11/21/13
- Another alignment done ~3/15/2014 after noticing the car wasn't handling quite right. Took it to our local Les Schwab (NW tire/auto shop) and they diagnosed a worn inner tie rod. Let my local Subie guru take a look and the tie rod was fine, but noted the RIGHT tire was wearing more than the LEFT on the inside. He aligned it, which fixed the driving issue. Also, the previous alignment had 'required' a camber bolt on that RIGHT side, which was NOT needed to align correctly this last time- i think the other shop's alignment machine was 'wacked'.

[wtdash]

AGX adjustment info:

The AGX products have the following approximate damping force values.

When adjusted, both rebound and compression damping forces change.

For a 4 position adjustable product, the damping force values are approx.

The following:

Setting#: Relative Value

#1 - Same as Factory 100

#2 - Same as our GR2 products (10~15% firmer than Factory) 115

#3 - 50% firmer than #2 172

#4 - 30% firmer than #3 223


For an 8 position adjustable product, the damping force values are approx.

The following:

With #2 being Factory at a relative value of 100,

#1 = 95 (5% softer than Factory #5 = 143.5 (43.5% firmer than Factory)

#2 = 100 (Factory damping force) #6 = 172 (72% firmer than Factory)

#3 = 107.5 (7.5% firmer than Factory) #7 = 197.5 (97.5 firmer than Factory)

#4 = 115 (15% firmer than Factory)(GR-2) #8 = 223 (123 % firmer than Factory)


Thank you,

Tech Support

[wtdash]

- STi 20mm front sway bar install:
--Leftover from some other project so I went ahead and installed it. Reused all the existing SS stuff and although the bushings are tight they did fit.

Bar appears to be only 1-2" longer compared to the stock one. The main diff/issue is that the SS ends are turned in more - @ a right angle to the end link.



What I'm not sure about is if the angle where they attach to the end links is OK:
Driver's side:

Pass. side:

[goderd]

Looks to be in awesome condition. Good find!

[SILINC3R]

Wow, for sure got a good deal there.

[wtdash]

Fuel Pump:

-Cleaned off the top of the fuel pump and installed a <50K mile XT pump (same as '05 STi) included w/the injectors I bought.


The stock pump is so huge...l!

[wtdash]

-AGX struts w/ H&R springs. Front struts required camber bolts to get the alignment???!! Surprised, but apparently not UNcommon from what others have seen w/the AGX's??? I had them set the camber to a -.5°.

Tires 225/50R-16 Hankook Ventus S1 noble2 (UHP All-seasons):



Earlier setup - Tires are 225/45R17 HRI's:


Had to roll the fender lip on the rears. A local Subie tech rented me an Eastwood roller and heat gun. It's about 95% better than originally, but still rubs a little. EDIT: 8/19/13 - Noticed the lip wasn't completely rolled back up against the inside of the fender, so I went back in w/a heat gun and a bat (yeah, yeah), and got some more space and didn't rub @ AutoX this last weekend....calling it 'good'.
Roller:


Pre-rolled:


Rolled:

[wtdash]

-Boost gauge and NXS (ebay) manual boost controller (MBC).

Had an STi boost gauge I bought a few years ago, which is in MPa vs. PSI, but it works. I removed the top half of the clamshell on the steering column and used a dremel to make 2 slits to run a zip tie thru. The gauge sits inside a rubber outer shell.

I T'd into the vacuum line on the pass. side front intake runner for the source - may use the BPV as it's closer but need to research on any issues that would cause.

The gauge is wired so I tapped into the light for the ashtray, so it would work w/the dimmer control.

Slits in cover:


Installed on cover. The base comes w/a mounting bracket but I just made a horizontal slit in the base, forced a zip tie thru it, and secured to the cover.
- note that installing outside of the car made it harder to re-install the top cover in the car. It wasn't a huge PITA but be warned:


Underneath shot of zip tie:


Installed in car (white dots are 5, 10, 15, 20 psi marks):


For the MBC, I had an elbow that fit the same hole for the WG vacuum line, which is larger, so I used the stock lines. Set it to 10 psi for now:

[kimokalihi]

Do you know which speedo gear would make it read properly with a 4.444fd? I've tried both the stock gear and the 4.444 gear and neither were even close. 4.444 was about 10% high and stock 3.90 gear was worse at closer to 15% higher than actual speed.

[wtdash]

Kimo,
PM me on this stuff...or did I crash your build journal too?

I'm not sure what 'speedo gear' you're referring to. But have seen THIS ON NaSIOC.

If yours is a JDM 4.44 trans and you're running a 205-55R16 tire (similar to what the JDM used - I think!), you may be able to get one thru a JDM importer????

Edit: Just checked your Build thread, and since you're using a Forester 4.44 you may be screwed, since the stock tire size for Foresters was a 205-70R15 or 215-60R16. Those are both over 1" taller than the stock 195/60R15 or 205/55R16.

My 5-speed swap into my '90 Legacy was a '98 Forester that was a 4.11 FD ratio and it was off, too.

But is the the speedo gear what determines the speedometer calibration for each trans? Is there anything in the speedo head @ the cluster??

TD

[wtdash]

Seats:

Since my driver's seat looks like many Subarus of that era I wanted to upgrade. There weren't any WRX seats immediately avl. plus I don't like the way the passenger seat sits higher (doesn't have the up/down adjustment of the driver's seat).

Driver's seat:


So, I bought some 2008 Legacy GT seats from local yard as I didn't find any info online whether they'd fit or not - they don't!

The front holes line up fine, but both rear holes don't. The left rail is longer and isn't close; the right rail is completely different as it only has one bolt hole and it's not near either original location.

Pics:
Left rail:



Right rail:


I was able to return the seats, so just cost some ga$.

I decided to take the stock seat to a local upholstery shop to see what they can do......

EDIT: 9/12/13 - They fixed the tear in the side bolster but didn't help the seat cushion or bolsters. Ended up buying these '06-'07 WRX TR Seats:


Install was mostly painless. I used an extra bolt from my seat belt swap to hold the receiver seat buckle (on the inside of the seats) on - seat belts and buckles are from a '98 LGT. The head rests are HUGE and in the way....but seats are much better.

Passenger seat sits higher, which I knew, but I don't have many passengers, so not sure it's an issue.

You can see in this pic the seats look about even on height-@ the seat/butt cushion, but once installed they are probably 2" higher.



Td

[BoostedSubie]

I did the same thing a year ago, ended up using 05 Impreza seats.

[wtdash]

Busy week....

*Installed the TMIC (What a PITA this is), a TD04 I had and wanted to test b4 going w/the VF24, injectors, and the Rob Tuned EJ20G ECU w/the 4 to 2 Ignition Converter.

*I also put a screen on the fins of the IC to protect it.






A couple shots of it w/out the IC to show the hose routing:







*Used an ebay TMIC y-pipe kit. The 90° hose was too short so I had to add a shorter piece w/a piece of extra hard pipe to extend it to reach the turbo's outlet.

*>>>Advice when cutting the hose (assuming it's a silicone hose) from the turbo to the IC - get the 90° set 1st, and THEN cut the length as it makes it much easier to judge. Also, put the hose clamp on the end that attaches to the turbo's outlet (to the IC) and it'll help it maintain its shape when fitting later on....loosen it enough to get on, and it'll usually find its way on.



*The TD04 install (covered many times on here) was only a challenge in getting the right length/height for the elbow from the stock 90° elbow. I used a silicone elbow w/a short piece of exhaust pipe and into the stock elbow. - No pics.

*While trying to turn the stock coolant tank, one of the nipples broke - no surprise - and I found that it had another one broken, so put in a WRX tank I had. It was pretty painless..just added a longer hose on the bottom port and shortened the one that comes across the engine from the radiator:


*Injectors - a couple of notes:
- If the car sits overnight much of fuel pressure is lessened, but there's still fuel in the lines so put a rag under the injectors and in the plug holes BEFORE loosening any of the end bolts that attach the fuel lines to the rails. If you leave the plug wires installed beware that if fuel gets down in the plug hole, the plug boots will expand - at least mine did - so make sure the plug holes are dry after swapping the injector.
-On the '93 Ej22T there are spacers under the fuel rails that need to be retained -don't lose them.
- For the STi yellow side-feeds the injector connector goes on upside down....but fits perfect.



- Plug for local injector cleaning service


*Rob Tuned EJ20G ECU and 4 to 2 Ignition Converter.
- I'd bought a converter from someone thru CL last spring for another project that didn't pan out. It was DoA so I had to reorder another one from Rob.
- With the ECU, I'm getting real good @ installing/removing it.
- Got a '91 NA ECU @ PullnSave and used its case for the Ej20G ECU - fits perfect.

*After all installed the only issue was Knock Sensor code - not sure why that changed/didn't have a code b4 the ECU swap- but it was cracked. I had an extra one from a '98 Outback. They have different connectors but the pin is the same so I de-pinned it and swapped into the '93's connector:

[wtdash]

Sub-Frame lock down bolts:
Used the DIY on NASIOC and since my SS hasn't seen much snow or many winters (CA and Seattle car), the bolt holes were pretty clean (VERY clean compared to an '04 Forester XT I did the same thing on a couple of years ago - it was from back east.)

[kimokalihi]

Might want to check your idle switch adjustment via the tps. That's what was throwing my tps code untik I adjusted it.

[wtdash]

Might want to check your idle switch adjustment via the tps. That's what was throwing my tps code untik I adjusted it.

I have no TPS or idle issues.
But Thanks

[wtdash]

CLUTCH and FLYWHEEL

After the Rob Tune was installed, I noticed some free-revving in 5th gear when I'd get on it on the freeway....engine would spin up maybe 1-2K in RPM before car would actually start to accelerate. Car also had some other weird habits around town, so I figured the stock clutch had met its useful life expectancy....not a great thing to happen, but not unexpected w/140K on the stock clutch.

I found a Exedy Stage 1 Clutch kit (part number: 15802 (NOT the HD)) brand-new on NASIOC. I decided to go w/the Stage 1 on the advice of my local Subie guru who said that had higher clamping force but wouldn't require me to start doing leg exercises to depress the clutch (like he does w/his HD clutch). I'd say he's right as the clutch feels no different in pedal pressure.

BUT...remember that the clutch is a HELL of a lot cheaper than a transmission so YMMV. U want the clutch to go b4 the transmission so a Stage 1 clutch DOES put more stress on the tranny - but I don't plan on launching it/power shifting/etc.

I installed the FW/Clutch disc/PP/pilot bearing/TO bearing after pulling the engine. I pulled the engine as I wanted to also reseal the rear separator plate w/the upgraded part and screws, which didn't appear to be leaking.

I also did a complete T-belt/pulleys/water pump/Tstat job, too. (The oil pump had been resealed by the PO.)

Others just pull the transmission, which may be less work.....but I've only done a couple transmission swaps, but a lot of engine swaps.

Engine out:


Pic of clutch material on the back of the engine:


New clutch:


And PP:


There are lots of Threads on Subie forums on HOW TO's for the clutch job so not going to bother w/the details, other than to recommend to install the TO bearing on the transmission, and simply push the lever toward the BACK of the car (opp. of the what the slave cylinder does) to seat it on the PP once the engine and trans are put back together....don't fight the battle of putting it on the engine first.


Flywheel

For the FW I bought a LW FW for a WRX, but it turned out to be <12lbs, which was just too light for my tastes. I had an extra stock SS FW resurfaced and used that.

[wtdash]

WRX SHIFTER INSTALL

The overall swap wasn't as difficult as I'd read about- just use a punch that doesn't get stuck in the hole and both roll pins came out....I DID TAKE THE COMPLETE CROSSMEMBER OFF so I had a straight shot at the roll pins. Plus, allowed me to get the crossmember bushings installed. As my car has 0 rust issues, none of the bolts were much trouble.

AS noted by JC, the wrx shifter is 'notchy' but after 3 days it's not too bad and has become less so, and the slop/side-to-side play is 95% gone.



2004 WRX stock shift linkage (Factory short shift) and KB front bushings:


Compared to stock - can't see it in the pics, but the 2 plastic/poly bushings in the 'knuckle' were gone/worn out:




In car - I was able to remove the plate and screws w/out pulling any other plastic parts out - just unscrewed the shift knob and pried up the console piece w/the shifter's accordion boot:


Also installed the KB 5mt crossmember bushings and rear stay bushings.

[mike-tracy]

Great work so far, Todd!

[SILINC3R]

A-Team Music; I love when a plan comes together!

She is going to say thank you many times

[wtdash]

VF24 install.

Just a single shot of the turbo installed. Used the silicone elbow w/a piece of pipe into the stock 90° turbo inlet elbow.

Turned boost up to 18psi (was @ 16psi w/the TD04).

Not sure yet what I think of this turbo..... Seems to pull harder than the TD04 but more lag. This was a used a turbo so not sure on its condition.


TANGENT:
Found this info for the VF24...can't verify, esp. since it states the VF39 is a 'twinscroll', which isn't true as a twin-scroll has dual ports from the up pipe.

Turbo Chargers

Bigger, Badder, and Pumping Up the Pressure.

After the "basics" of better airflow (exhaust, intake, etc.) and baseline engine management, the next step is to take the plunge with a larger turbo. The base turbo is a Mitsubishi TD04. Originally, when the WRX first debut in 94, the WRX came with a larger Mitsubishi TD05 turbo. The larger turbo allowed for greater top end horsepower at the expense of turbo lag and initial spool up. Thus, starting in 97 Subaru replaced the TD05 in favor of the smaller and quicker spooling TD04.
So?where to begin and what type of turbo to install? Well, for starters, look to Subaru's own in house performance tuning division - STi. The 280 hp WRX STi V7 sports an IHI VF24 roller ball bearing turbo.

Roller bearing turbos give you fast transient spool up - full boost comes on quickly.

Remember, to take full advantage of a new turbo, you must run some sort of enginemanagement. Also remember that when you surpass the 325-330 hp mark, the stock fuel system becomes inadequate. (read: the fuel injectors and fuel pump can't supply enough fuel to run safely)

IHI turbo - (See table for Turbo Specs)
The VF series (VF22, VF23, VF24, VF29, VF30, VF34, VF39) are the most common direct replacement turbos. All VF-series turbochargers use the same roller bearing, water-cooled core assembly. The differences are in their wheels and housings to achieve different flows.

The VF22 has the largest potential for peak horsepower. In other words, in the IHI model range, the VF 22 supports the highest boost levels. It is capable of running up to 25 psi. Because it is a roller bearing turbo, turbo lag is minimal...the boost comes on around 3300 rpm. Expect to max out the VF22 somewhere in the 400-450 hp range.

The VF23 starts the middle ground. It comes on boost around 3100 rpm and is capable of running 20 psi of boost. Expect to max out the VF23 somewhere in the 300-350 hp range.

The VF 24 starts to come on around 2900 rpm and will significantly improve power through the midrange over the stock TD04 turbo. However, the VF 24 is only capable of running around 17 psi.

The VF23 and VF 24 are a great replacement for those who value drivability higher than maximum power.

The VF29 & VF30 delivers a very wide increase in torque over the standard TD-series turbos.

The VF 30 is a fairly new IHI model that utilizes the exhaust housing of a VF24 and the compressor housing sized between a VF 23 and a VF 22. It comes on boost down low (around the 3000 rpm range). With upgraded injectors, fuel pump, and engine management, the VF 30 is good for 365-390 horsepower. It is important to note that the VF30 is NOT a roller bearing turbo.

The IHI VF34 (which comes standard in the Japanese market STi version "RA") is a new roller bearing turbo. It has the same specifications (compressor size, etc.) as the VF 30. The difference lies in the roller bearing which, theoretically, allows quicker spool and better response. It costs a couple hundres more than a VF 30. The VF 34 maxes out around 365-390 hp. It is probably the most popular option for big turbos on the WRX.

One other turbo to note is the VF 39...it comes standard in the USDM STi. While we don't have all the specs yet, these are a new roller bearing, TWIN SCROLL design. Performance numbers are pretty similar to the VF34...maxing out just under 400 hp.

[kimokalihi]

No issues with the inlet hose collapsing?

[wtdash]

No issues with the inlet hose collapsing?

No - based on my experience w/a previous hose collapsing issue, which was obvious (once I figured out WTH was going on!).

I have very little unsupported hose to collapse, too. The hard pipe going down from the stock elbow is pushed in to where the curve in the silicone elbow starts.

Thanks,
Td

[Legacy777]

Todd,

You mentioned replacing the oil separator plate with the new style. From what I can tell in the pics the old style that is on there is the aluminum plate and is as good if not better than the newer stamped steel plate. If that's the case, just curious why you replaced the aluminum separator plate.

[wtdash]

Todd,

You mentioned replacing the oil separator plate with the new style. From what I can tell in the pics the old style that is on there is the aluminum plate and is as good if not better than the newer stamped steel plate. If that's the case, just curious why you replaced the aluminum separator plate.

Hi Josh,
Ignorance........it had the original aluminum one. Only replaced because I bought the parts in advance of pulling the engine and thought the newer style was the 'answer' to the plate leaking over time, although mine appeared to be dry, but was hard to tell as most of my old clutch material was inside the bellhousing. I'd just reseal the original if it has the stock metal one -if leaking - from now on .

I also didn't recall when Subaru changed to the plastic plates which are more prone to leaking. ....Google>>They went to the plastic ones around '96, and went back to steel/aluminum ones around '00....some different opinions on exactly when from what I just read online.