legacycentral bbs

I'm interested. I'll PM you later tonight.

Starter?

I thought the same thing at 1st but if it can start on its own w/o push start I would think the started would be ok.

starter wire, Battery terminal connections, and grounds. You have juice off the battery, but you have a poor connection somewhere that is preventing full starting power ...

My gf's car wont statr on its own. When jumped it starts ok. Before I left for school I replaced the alternator b/c it was bad and wouldnt charge the batt. I also bought a new DieHard batt. When she tried to starts the car it usually doesnt do anything(just the raido/lights come on) but sometimes it ...

Compression test results...

cyl 1 - 190,190
cyl 2 - 128,150,165
cyl 3 - 190,195
cyl 4 - 210,205

The plugs looked ok. Nothing out of the odinary. Im just wondering what was up with cyl #2? It kept increasing as I did each test.

What did the old plugs look like? Did you try a compression test?

Steve

I dont remember what they looked like but they werent that bad that anything bothered me. And Ill do a compression test when I get the car back tonight from getting my snows put on.

And would you reccomend I wait to ...

My 92 legacy is randomly misfiring in cyl 4. I replaced all the plugs, wires, and the coil pack (with another one of my other subie) and it still is misfiring. I noticed it usually starts to misfire when the car just gets up to temp. Then from that point on it misfires whenever it wants to(underload ...

I have been working on my gf's car for a while and it sits for a week or two between working on it and I just bought a new battery for it and when I try to start the car, it clicks. Not likw when your batt is dead but it clicks just once. Then I try it again and the same thing happens. I keep trying ...

Isnt the 90-91 fenders different from te 92-94? Im looking for a pass side fender and this guy is trying to sell me a 90 fender for my gf's 92.
Thanks
Jon

I went to start my car the other day and it fired right up but with in 10 seconds it staled. It would slowly decrease the revs untill it would stall itself out. At the same time this happened my CEL came on. I pulled the codes and I got 4 :( 11(crank angle sensor), 23(Air flow sensor) 24(Air control ...

odds are its flooded and your plugs are fouled as well. remove the plugs and clean the oil and carbon off...the mis-timed treatment will foul them badly. Let the cylinders breathe a bit and remove the air filter to let extra gas flash off. if the plugs aren't like-new now would be the time for new ...

I think I spoke too soon :( I realigned the timing blet for the 5th time, 2nd time the correct way :oops: and I counted the teeth and everything was exact and now it wont start again. It sounds like it will almost catch and start but it won't. Im getting another vid, Ill have it up in a few.

EDIT ...

professor wrote: on non-interference engines a simple check is to make sure you have proper compression when turning the engine over. Misalignment of the crank and cam will mean no or possibly very low compression only on all cylinders, same as a broken belt.

Thats an awesome tip, Thanks.

I got it to start but its a rough idle. I think I might be one tooth off. Thanks everyone for the help ...now to get it to run smoothly

mTk wrote:iirc it's the notch on one of the tabs on the crank sprocket, not the arrow

MK

I think your right. I couldnt even see the other mark unless I knew to look for it, it was covered with oil and crap. Ill let ya know how it goes in a few.

Ok I fixed the waterpump but the car still wont start. I lined up all the marks, as can be seen in the pics below. I counted 44 teeth on the left anf 41 on the right. I also checked every wire for spark and they are all ok. I just recently (about a month ago) replaced the plugs and fuel filter too ...

I went to put everything on and I was filling it with coolant( I saved it from b4) and somehw something got into the coolant, looked like a little plastic clip or something. I stoped and drained the coolant to try to get it out and no luck. So I went to flush it out with some water from the hose ...

I have spark. Ill check for stored codes later.

How do I know where TDC is with the timing cover on. I took off the side covers and the belt tension seems ok.

I just did the timing belt on my friends legacy and now it wont start. Im going to take it apart again and see whats goin on. I made sure all the marks lined up and put everything back and it wont start. I have a vid of me tring to start it, if it helps at all.

http://www.dtpcarclub.com/videos ...

simpreza2 wrote: Yeah, I did. I looked all over for the old o-ring and I cant find it. Is it recessed into a groove or something?

anybody?? I got all the seals done and im just waiting to put the driver side cam seal holder back on but I cant find the old o-ring to replace.

mTk wrote:Did you pull off the assembly that's on the end of the camshaft on the driver's side?

MK

Yeah, I did. I looked all over for the old o-ring and I cant find it. Is it recessed into a groove or something?

OK I torqued the waterpump to specs in counterclockwise postition starting from the upper right (according to chilton) and I got the 2 cam seals changed. Im still working on the crank seal. With the driverside 0-ring, I still dont know where it goes and I cant find the old o-ring.

Thanks for all ...

I used a new gasket for the waterpump and torqued them down to specs( I dont remember specifically) I just wanted to make sure it wasnt supposed to spin freely. There is a little resistance but not too much. And how important is the tightening sequence? I did it like I would the wheel lugs (cross ...

You need to take a small flathead screwdriver and shove it into the side of the oil seal that is next to the shaft. If you do it right, you can then take another screwdriver or something as a pivot point and push the screwdriver that's in the seal towards the block, on the pivot point, and it ...

On the driverside cam, the o-ring is behind the plate that the cam seal goes into. IIRC there are 3 bolts holding the piece on. Unscrew these bolts, remove the plate and you'll find the o-ring. It should only add around 15-20 minutes to the job.

I did remove the plate and its how I got the ...

Im doing a belt change and also doing the seals b/c of what I read on the board. I got the driver side cam seal but how would you change the pass side w/o scratching the cam or head? I had trouble with the driver side and that was off the car. Also on the driver side where does the O-ring go? when I ...