legacycentral bbs

Wow, I'm going to be more complete than you on something

I have a LF and RR wheel bearing shot on my Legacy, but I'm actually just gonna pull all 4 hubs and have all 4 bearings replaced...

All my wheel bearings are original.

Steve

Someone help me out here. Looking at Josh's writeup, and then doing this myself, and looking at the pictures I think he may have mistyped something.

Looking at this picture it looks like pin 1 and 2 from the b15 auto connector are connecterd together (black/yellow and black/white, the blue butt connector). He says to use 1 and 4 for the neutral switch, though. It looks like he actually used 3 and 4 for the neutral switch (black/white and gree/black). Am I looking at this wrong? Oh, and what good does it do to connect 1 and 2 if that is what he is doing? Is that just a ground?

-Ryan

Well I think I see what's up. My wires all line up with Josh's when I flip the connector upside down. The diagram that shows the pinout of the B15 connector shows the two ridges on the side of the connector next to the bottom row, and when I turn it upside down it is just under th top row. I'm going to bet that Josh is correct and follow his example, though.

Here's my reply to your pm....in case any one else would like clarification

I think you're getting confused because that's not the B15 connector. The B15 connector is the trans connector on the chassis side of the wiring harness. The one in the picture is the corresponding connector on the transmission side. The connector name/number is different. It's the E18 connector. So all the connections will be flipped....like you were looking at them in a mirror.

Use the numbers I mentioned, but it'd be a good idea to verify everything yourself with a test light to make sure they didn't get funky.

Josh, I'm preparing to do the 5mt swap. Could you help me to sort out what is relevant to that part of your write up? I read the parts list but it's the journal I was wondering about. Do you have a seperate write up on that alone?

The write-up is pretty straight forward. I have two separate parts lists, one for the AWD swap & one for the 5MT swap.
http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap/parts.html

I did not separate "My Parts list"

But you should be able to figure out what you need from the one I posted above.

Pretty much everything else is electrical issues.

If you have specific questions, I can try to answer them.

I guess I must be lazy. The reason I was asking was that I'm giving the write up to a friend who does tranny work so he can get a good idea how long it would take him so he can work up some kind of estimate. His garage has all the equipment required to do the work (lifts etc.) and I was going to sit in on the work. I missed a lot of the original posts about this and a couple of things are unclear to me.


- Possibly a manual transmission cruise computer
- Possibly a manual transmission ECU

What is meant by possible? In the journal, I read about the voltage that tells the ECU whether or not it's an auto or man. Is this the reason you need the ECU or TCU off of the manual? Are they actually different?

My car is a '93 and the car I'm getting the tranny off of is a '92, shouldn't the pedal assemblies be the same?

Turbo models use the same ECUs for manual gearboxes and automatic transmissions, so you don't need that. You just need to cut that one wire.

You can figure cruise out later, but the two options are:

- Try using the existing controls, with the clutch switch wired in place of the neutral switch
- Swap in a MT cruise ECU and relay.

Unless you found a 5MT Turbo cruise ECU, either setup would probably be a little miscalibrated, but that hasn't kept any of us with turbo swaps from using cruise.

Even with an NA, you don't need to swap the ECU.

The cruise computer issue, you wouldn't run it to the neutal switch. You'd still use the clutch switch, it's just how it's wired up.

I haven't tried, but here's what I'd do....from my write-up:
"After looking back at the cruise setup I could have probably just left the AT cruise computer in there, along with the inhibitor relay. If I did that instead, I would have snipped pin 2 of the AT's B83 connector and spliced it into the wire I ran over to the cruise clutch switch. The only unknown with this setup is, "Would the AT cruise computer be looking for the TCU, and try to shift gears?" "

Ok....looked at things closer. You'd wire the cruise clutch switch up to pin 2 of the B83 relay. Instead of hooking up the other end of the cruise clutch switch to ground, you'd hook it up to 12v switch.

I "think" this should mimic the same conditions the AT cruise relay is configured. But like I posted originally, I don't know if the AT cruise computer is going to be looking for inputs from the TCU.

Does anyone know if this write up would be relevent to a 95 impreza coupe? I don't know if there plug ins are the same or what...

plugs prob a little different but if you had a wiring diagram for you impreza you should be able to follow the general principles in the write-up and i imagine it would work just fine.

I used this write up to do my swap and it was very very very helpfully!! i thought the wiring was going to be a nightmare when it really only took about an hour. best of luck

As mentioned, if you have a wiring diagram for your car, you should be able to tweak things. There should be a lot of info on the 95 impreza on nasioc in the conversions forum since a lot of people use it as their conversion car of choice

cheapo trans jack: build a cradle for the trans out of wood, take the round jack point off the floor jack, bolt the wooden contraption to the jack. you might want to leave a little slop for adjustment with some wedges between the wooden thing and the jack.

seperating the engine/trans can be tough. once I had the bolts undone, I sacrificed the blade from a small pocketknife and tapped it into the gap. it ended up being a great wedge. some paring knives would work great and be less than a dollar at the thrift store.

wiring, I made josh's plug and play harness by looking at the colors of the wires and pins on the plugs.

gut the midpipe cat if you are still stock exhaust because you have it dropped anyway.

get new throwout bearing clips, and DO NOT bend them any more than you have to. they are very weak.

I got some fancy synth gear oil from the local subaru shop, it seems to work well enough but they wouldnt tell me what it is?

the little black plastic flywheel inspection hole cover? RUN IT!! that same subaru shop told me not to("nah, we nevah leave those on de cah."), and I had debris go into the hole and lock the flywheel to the trans. had to pull the whole shit, thats why you now see +.3L on my sig.

for running the clutch cable, I put some string on a stick and used that to fish it around the very tight corner under the master cyl.

If I was to do my shifter setup over, I would redo everything connection in rod ends and seal up the whole shebang with thorn proof bike tube and zip ties with lots of grease inside.

My shift lock (key interlock) system wasnt connected to anything when I went to take it out

But everything worked normally

Isnt that weird?

Yeah that is weird.

As far as the wiring goes, which connectors should I grab from a manual tranny legacy for the swap?

I would grab the connector that the trans plugs into in order to make a p&p harness with the AT connector.

I'd also grab the starter interlock connector & relay, as well as the black connectors that come from the ignition key...again to make a p&p harness. You'll also need the clutch sensors & connectors.

You can see the harness here
http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/ima ... rness4.jpg

It has the black connectors that plug into the existing harness. Those then tie into the starter interlock relay & clutch start switch.

You may also want to grab the cruise computer, relay & connectors.

Cruise control is long gone in my car

Thanks for the info

What the minimum I need to get the car actually moving?

Clutch start sensor? Or more?

I need to get the car out of my friends garage ASAP, I can wire up the reverse lights and everything when I get it home.

The minimum would be the jumper pins 11 & 12 of the AT's B15 connector together.

This bypasses the starter interlock circuit, and basically allows you to always start the car.

Another interesting problem to mention:

The keys are stuck in the ignition. I removed the tranny while the car was in neutral, so the key lock dealie is stopping me from taking them out...

Any thoughts on that?

Ok....it sounds like there's some confusion going on here.

This plastic box is what keeps the key from being removed.
http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swa ... #shiftlock

Is it removed from the vehicle?

Yes

and the battery is disconnected

Hmm....there is a button on the bottom side of the ignition cylinder. Push it, so the key will come out. Try inserting the key and removing it again.

Maybe something got stuck.