engine swap trouble, no start (EJ22)
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engine swap trouble, no start (EJ22)
Hey guys,
I just installed a 93 EJ22 NA into my friends 91 legacy wagon. There was an EJ22 in there before too. It went really straightforward, and then when we went to start it, it ran like poo. We moved the timing belt and it ran okay. The AIV has never worked, but it made a 300-mile road trip to college.
The new symptoms are this- cranks, all accessories work, but the ignition switch seems to be faulty. When you turn the car off, all the dash lights stay very dimly lit. But when this is happening, and you unplug the switch, it doesn't change. I would think that doing so would turn everything off.
It is throwing codes 42 and 51. 42 is the ignition switch.
Joey
I just installed a 93 EJ22 NA into my friends 91 legacy wagon. There was an EJ22 in there before too. It went really straightforward, and then when we went to start it, it ran like poo. We moved the timing belt and it ran okay. The AIV has never worked, but it made a 300-mile road trip to college.
The new symptoms are this- cranks, all accessories work, but the ignition switch seems to be faulty. When you turn the car off, all the dash lights stay very dimly lit. But when this is happening, and you unplug the switch, it doesn't change. I would think that doing so would turn everything off.
It is throwing codes 42 and 51. 42 is the ignition switch.
Joey
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A change in ECU wouldn't make a difference. The engine did not change at all mechanically between those years.
I would double check all your connections like your MAF, the ignitor, the coil pack etc. It is probably something really simple that didn't "click" when you hooked it back up...
I would double check all your connections like your MAF, the ignitor, the coil pack etc. It is probably something really simple that didn't "click" when you hooked it back up...
1974 Porsche 914 Cam Am Limted Edition AKA the Bumble Bee
1973 Porsche 914 2.0 l -Suby swap pending
1968 Porsche 911t survivor 47k original miles
2000 2.5RS daily driver.
1999 2.5RS w/ 50+ extra whp
Suby Hai!
1973 Porsche 914 2.0 l -Suby swap pending
1968 Porsche 911t survivor 47k original miles
2000 2.5RS daily driver.
1999 2.5RS w/ 50+ extra whp
Suby Hai!
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Didn't the MAF itself change between '91 and '93 though? Could this be the problem?Matt Monson wrote:A change in ECU wouldn't make a difference. The engine did not change at all mechanically between those years.
I would double check all your connections like your MAF, the ignitor, the coil pack etc. It is probably something really simple that didn't "click" when you hooked it back up...
rallyXjoe- Did you switch the intakes as well (with the MAF) or just the engines?
-Matt
'92 SS 5mt. All go and no show. Sold :(
'94 Audi UrS4 Modded (new project)
'96 Outback 5mt.
'07 Legacy 2.5i SE
[quote="Redlined"]
Oh... and I hope the fucker get bunked with Gunter, arrested for raping Gorillas.[/quote]
'92 SS 5mt. All go and no show. Sold :(
'94 Audi UrS4 Modded (new project)
'96 Outback 5mt.
'07 Legacy 2.5i SE
[quote="Redlined"]
Oh... and I hope the fucker get bunked with Gunter, arrested for raping Gorillas.[/quote]
We used the old maf, since we noticed it was different (one if a film type, the other is a wire type). We also cleaned it with an alchohol swab. And it would be trowing the code if it were unplugged. there are two codes for the MAS, one for the circuit, and one for the sensor it self. I believe one is tripped by incorrect voltage on the signal pin, and the other is for no signal voltage (circuit code). We rented a book with all of the codes in it, and had to return it. Does anyone have a source on the 91 legacy diagnostic codes? I tried the FAQ.
legacy92- we plugged everything in, and have checked that stuff since it broke down. this car made a decent road trip since we installed the new engine.
We are going to find some tools and pull spark plugs today. we will check out the ignition conditions.
Joey
legacy92- we plugged everything in, and have checked that stuff since it broke down. this car made a decent road trip since we installed the new engine.
We are going to find some tools and pull spark plugs today. we will check out the ignition conditions.
Joey
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I have a crazy theroy that the reason my car is not working properly is the fact that when we did the engine swap we disregarded the AC as an unnessesary engine part does anyone know if the sensors have to be conected for my car to run correctly. It is still not starting. I turn key to run position check engine light comes on and reads 31,42,51. I then turn key to start engine cranks but does not start. I then turn key to run. Check engine light is no longer lit. Then turn the key off and take it out. All dash lights stay on and all accesories continue to work. I then have to disconnect the battery to reset the system. Has anyone seen anything like this before? to think i got a new engine because the first one was going to throw a rod now this engine just doent work at all......
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hello, my rattling rod brother! I have no clue what is going on, but it just has to be a goobered wire somewhere causing irregular voltage man making your sensors go nuts, plus not letting your ignition switch work properly. check the voltage drop from a grounding point to the ignition itself, maybe? just a stab in the dark.
ex-devastated ex-owner of the $5500 parts car!
We used the harness from the old engine, So I doubt it has any problems.
Update-
THe car behaves the same when the ecu is unplugged. The funky dash lights lighting dimly, and the crank with no start. We tested for spark. IT is weak, but there. When we connected a dVOM to the injector plug with ignition ON, we got 10V, while there was 12 at the battery. With it cranking, it read all over the place, which I took to mean a typical pulse signal.
With spark and fuel, and no distributor, I don't know where to look next. There is no way to adjust the timing.
It was getting bad gas mileage before it took a dump and quit running.
Update-
THe car behaves the same when the ecu is unplugged. The funky dash lights lighting dimly, and the crank with no start. We tested for spark. IT is weak, but there. When we connected a dVOM to the injector plug with ignition ON, we got 10V, while there was 12 at the battery. With it cranking, it read all over the place, which I took to mean a typical pulse signal.
With spark and fuel, and no distributor, I don't know where to look next. There is no way to adjust the timing.
It was getting bad gas mileage before it took a dump and quit running.
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YES, ITS ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! We play with it for hours not really sure what we were doing but finaly its started and ran without a hitch. and seems to run normally. The check engine light is not even lit up any more
. Hopefully im not on here tomorrow sayin its broke again.... thats still to be told.
