nothing is ever simple?
Moderators: Helpinators, Moderators
nothing is ever simple?
So i've got my new engine and rebuilt transmission bolted into the car and hooked up and last night we tried to start it. The engine turns over but it sounds like its only firing on one cylinder and wont start. Anybody have any ideas? One idea I have is that someone jammed the plugs before i got the engine so im going to pull the plugs out next time. Also i need to resoder the knock sensor wire.
///M
'93 Legacy SS - part out
'93 Legacy SS - part out
-
- Knowledgeable
- Posts: 1333
- Joined: Tue Oct 15, 2002 4:55 pm
- Location: Seattle, WA
- Contact:
-
- Knowledgeable
- Posts: 2278
- Joined: Tue Jan 28, 2003 8:19 am
- Location: Saint Joe, CA - Redlands, CA
This is one of those things where it would be a lot easier to figure it out when you're actually looking at it, hence the lack of replies i bet. A bad sensor, an electrical problem, or a funky fueling problem could all cause the condition you describe. My personal guess is a bad electrical connection somewhere, but ya really need to provide a lot more detail on what was replaced and whatnot, or just metholodically go through the systems you tampered with doing the swap. Sorry to hear of troubles though.
[url=http://www.thawa.net/gallery/albums/album108/DSCF0330.jpg]90 legacy of awesomeness[/url]
I haven't changed the cams yet, they managed to fail to write my apartment number on the cams when they were delivering so they got delayed since last friday. Should be here tomorrow tho. Right now the only thing i can think of is that the crank sensor is bad. I'm gonna check to see if its firing correctly this weekend with a timing gun.
I just dropped the newish engine in, it has 117k miles and they said it was running good when they took it out. However it looks like they were trying to pick parts off the engine since there are no bolts holding the headers on and the uppipe was kinda loose like someone tried to take it off.
I was wondering if this thread was somehow invisible.
I just dropped the newish engine in, it has 117k miles and they said it was running good when they took it out. However it looks like they were trying to pick parts off the engine since there are no bolts holding the headers on and the uppipe was kinda loose like someone tried to take it off.
I was wondering if this thread was somehow invisible.
///M
'93 Legacy SS - part out
'93 Legacy SS - part out
-
- Knowledgeable
- Posts: 1333
- Joined: Tue Oct 15, 2002 4:55 pm
- Location: Seattle, WA
- Contact:
-
- Knowledgeable
- Posts: 1333
- Joined: Tue Oct 15, 2002 4:55 pm
- Location: Seattle, WA
- Contact:
-
- quasi-mod-o
- Posts: 2574
- Joined: Sun Nov 09, 2003 8:24 pm
- Location: Ghetto Garage, CO, USA
- Contact:
Dan,
Let me know if you find a bad sensor. I can probably take care of you in that department...
Let me know if you find a bad sensor. I can probably take care of you in that department...
1974 Porsche 914 Cam Am Limted Edition AKA the Bumble Bee
1973 Porsche 914 2.0 l -Suby swap pending
1968 Porsche 911t survivor 47k original miles
2000 2.5RS daily driver.
1999 2.5RS w/ 50+ extra whp
Suby Hai!
1973 Porsche 914 2.0 l -Suby swap pending
1968 Porsche 911t survivor 47k original miles
2000 2.5RS daily driver.
1999 2.5RS w/ 50+ extra whp
Suby Hai!
Which sensor runs the ignition? Is it the crank position sensor or the one by the cam. Thanks matt, i should have it covered if it is since I still have my old engine tho its in pieces but i'll let you know if i do.
Last edited by dzx on Wed Apr 13, 2005 8:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
///M
'93 Legacy SS - part out
'93 Legacy SS - part out
-
- Knowledgeable
- Posts: 1333
- Joined: Tue Oct 15, 2002 4:55 pm
- Location: Seattle, WA
- Contact:
There is no sensor on the flywheel.
There is a crank & cam sensor.
Crank sensor is at the very top of this pic
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... P_2703.JPG
Cam sensor is at the top of this pic
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... P_2700.JPG
I unfortunately didn't get any pics of the back of the pullies.
The tach is outputted by the ECU, and you won't get any tach signal if one sensor is dead. Both need to be functioning.
There is a crank & cam sensor.
Crank sensor is at the very top of this pic
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... P_2703.JPG
Cam sensor is at the top of this pic
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... P_2700.JPG
I unfortunately didn't get any pics of the back of the pullies.
The tach is outputted by the ECU, and you won't get any tach signal if one sensor is dead. Both need to be functioning.
Josh
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
ok, the pullies are on the correct sides, the timing was off by only a tooth, but the ignition isn't firing at TDC for some reason. Matter of fact, its firing quite a ways off.
I guess the cam sensor is referred to as the flywheel sensor because they used to be on the flywheel on older cars for the tach. Can the timing be set off by 180 degrees?
Also not sure that the knock sensor working.
I guess the cam sensor is referred to as the flywheel sensor because they used to be on the flywheel on older cars for the tach. Can the timing be set off by 180 degrees?
Also not sure that the knock sensor working.
///M
'93 Legacy SS - part out
'93 Legacy SS - part out
-
- Knowledgeable
- Posts: 5203
- Joined: Thu Nov 07, 2002 3:59 am
- Location: Cogan Station, PA
-
- Knowledgeable
- Posts: 5203
- Joined: Thu Nov 07, 2002 3:59 am
- Location: Cogan Station, PA
OK, are you sure that you're lined up on all the correct timing marks? You align to the notches, not the arrows. It should look like this:
http://www.graphics.cornell.edu/~v/pics/cambelt.pdf
If that (timing belt) is all on correct, the coil pack is correct, and the plug wires are all going to the right cylinder, then I have no idea what would throw your timing off so bad.
http://www.graphics.cornell.edu/~v/pics/cambelt.pdf
If that (timing belt) is all on correct, the coil pack is correct, and the plug wires are all going to the right cylinder, then I have no idea what would throw your timing off so bad.

-Matt
'92 SS 5mt. All go and no show. Sold :(
'94 Audi UrS4 Modded (new project)
'96 Outback 5mt.
'07 Legacy 2.5i SE
[quote="Redlined"]
Oh... and I hope the fucker get bunked with Gunter, arrested for raping Gorillas.[/quote]
'92 SS 5mt. All go and no show. Sold :(
'94 Audi UrS4 Modded (new project)
'96 Outback 5mt.
'07 Legacy 2.5i SE
[quote="Redlined"]
Oh... and I hope the fucker get bunked with Gunter, arrested for raping Gorillas.[/quote]
The timing is fine, I'm 99% sure that the head on the passenger side is F*cked up. It turns way to easy compared to the driver side one and the spare passenger side head. It feels like the valves aren't opening at all when you turn it. Also there are green spots of paint a little spot off from where the timing mark is. SOoo it looks like somebody messed up the cam or some component inside the head.
///M
'93 Legacy SS - part out
'93 Legacy SS - part out
-
- Fifth Gear
- Posts: 2268
- Joined: Wed Nov 12, 2003 12:26 am
- Location: USA: Central FL
- Contact:
Hmm... that's interesting, I noticed the same thing on my Legacy when I last had the timing belt off... the passenger side cam turned WAY easier than the driver's side, which felt like it was indeed moving valves (the resistance varied). I was worried all to shit about this, but then when we put it all back together it runs fine. Had decent compression test results, too. The passenger side cam felt like it had no resistance at all except it's rotational inertia.
Planning to take it apart and see what happened? I'd be interested to see what you find...
Planning to take it apart and see what happened? I'd be interested to see what you find...
-Chris
91SS 4EAT stock, 200k mi
91SS 5MT rebuilt engine waiting for a shell
93TW 4EAT, Forester lift, 3" TBE, 11psi, 200k mi
94SS 5MT4.11+rLSD 311k km: RobTune550,TD05-16g @ 18psi,FMIC,3"TBE,Forester lift
91SS 4EAT stock, 200k mi
91SS 5MT rebuilt engine waiting for a shell
93TW 4EAT, Forester lift, 3" TBE, 11psi, 200k mi
94SS 5MT4.11+rLSD 311k km: RobTune550,TD05-16g @ 18psi,FMIC,3"TBE,Forester lift
Yeh, i'm going to re pull the engine *sigh* and switch it with the heads i know are good. The passenger side head i have laying around has quite a bit of resistance. i held it down on the ground and turned it. So i'll probably put the new cams in the heads and just swap them.
///M
'93 Legacy SS - part out
'93 Legacy SS - part out
So i took the passenger side head off rather than pull the whole engine out again. Had everything put back together and what do you know? Snapped a head bolt off in the block. It'll be Thursday before i can drill it out and put a diff head bolt in. Somehow we misread inch pounds of torque for ft pounds of torque. At about 150 ft/lbs of torque the bolt snapped, lucky it didnt strip the threads inside instead. Soooo... nothing is ever simple.
///M
'93 Legacy SS - part out
'93 Legacy SS - part out