TURBO EXPANSION COOLANT TANK, easy and inexpensive FIX

nsantos23 · Post by **nsantos23** » Sun Feb 20, 2005 3:00 am

Hey Guys,

I recently bought 2 tanks from a member of the board. As we all know the tanks a built with a sh..ty plastic nipples that break easily in cold temperatures or by simply trying to remove the hose. To prevent these 3/8" (i believe) nipples from snapping, simply replace them with some 1/2" brass fittings from some depot. Drill a slitly bigger hole and screw the fitting in there. after that you will have to use LOCTITE METAL/CONCRETE EPOXY (ITEM #QM-80/81508) to seal the brass fitting to the tank opening, also if you wish you can put some of this stuff on the threads of the fitting. Keep in mind that this Loctite Dries in less than 5 minutes to a stage that can withstand high pressure. Make sure you give it a good seal around the fitting and also sand the plastic around the hole for better contact. This Loctite stuff is used in metal factories to help on the welding of sheet metal. I already went for a ride after appying the Loctite and replacing the nipples. I have taken the car to 6 to 7 k rpms for about 30 minutes and no leaks! Good Luck

Neo

evolutionmovement · Post by **evolutionmovement** » Sun Feb 20, 2005 3:06 am

5250 Marine Adhesive/Sealer would likely work, too.

Steve

greg donovan · Post by **greg donovan** » Thu May 19, 2005 6:12 pm

you have to take the tank out to do this, right?

is this still holding up?

nsantos23 · Post by **nsantos23** » Thu May 19, 2005 9:15 pm

Yes you do have to take it out, but if you have $180 just order the aluminum MRT one from Renicks Motorsport, I am also creating one made of metal process still under developement. Mine plastic one held up very good and it is still on the car.

Let me know if you need any help on this

Neo

dscoobydoo · Post by **dscoobydoo** » Thu May 19, 2005 9:19 pm

your other option would be to get a bulkhead through-pass at a hose/hydraulic place. I am using one on an oil pan as a fitting point for an oil temp gauge. It has handled 100psi, 220 temps and is brass also.

greg donovan · Post by **greg donovan** » Fri May 20, 2005 4:22 am

nsantos23 wrote:Yes you do have to take it out, but if you have $180 just order the aluminum MRT one from Renicks Motorsport, I am also creating one made of metal process still under developement. Mine plastic one held up very good and it is still on the car.

Let me know if you need any help on this

Neo

so the MRT one is WRX tank as well. will it fit?

i assume you mean this one:

is on sale for 190 right now, down from 280.

http://www.renickmotorsports.com/oscomm ... hp/pID/419')

greg donovan · Post by **greg donovan** » Fri May 20, 2005 5:49 am

just saw that you can get the Non anodized one from MRT for about 160 USD.

here is what it looks like:

http://www.mrtrally.com.au/shop/default ... =suwb246d3

this one says it is for the 93-96 wrx and early liberty/legacy turbos.

ShaggyGT · Post by **ShaggyGT** » Sat May 21, 2005 1:42 pm

Anyone havce any clear pictures of where they have their tank mounted, stock or not, and where the hoses go? I got my Legacy SS and the moron who owned it before me just took the coolant tank off!! That along with many other problems I have to fix.....

Thanks in advance!!

-Matt

kidwired · Post by **kidwired** » Sun May 22, 2005 7:37 am

JB Weld.

greg donovan · Post by **greg donovan** » Sun May 22, 2005 5:31 pm

ShaggyGT wrote:Anyone havce any clear pictures of where they have their tank mounted, stock or not, and where the hoses go? I got my Legacy SS and the moron who owned it before me just took the coolant tank off!! That along with many other problems I have to fix.....

Thanks in advance!!

-Matt

here is the stock location. it is the tank w/the rad. cap on it just infront of the brake and clutch resevoirs.

here is a pic of my "repair" job.

i did my repair with the tank still on the car. so it isnt perfect. but it got the job done and i was able to drive my car immedeatly after finishing the repair. and i didnt have to monkey w/epoxies. although i may add some later for piece of mind. total cost of parts actually used was less than 2 dollars.

IronMonkeyL255 · Post by **IronMonkeyL255** » Sun May 22, 2005 8:06 pm

I was thinking.....

If you were going to put the Saab 900 intercooler on there, couldn't you just use a 90-degree bend fitting so you wouldn't have to move the tank?

It looks to me like that would be much easier, if it will work.

greg donovan · Post by **greg donovan** » Sun May 22, 2005 11:25 pm

IronMonkeyL255 wrote:I was thinking.....

If you were going to put the Saab 900 intercooler on there, couldn't you just use a 90-degree bend fitting so you wouldn't have to move the tank?

It looks to me like that would be much easier, if it will work.

i am considering moving the tank because it may be be easier to mount the metal wrx tank in the RS location.

do you mean a 90 deg fitting for a hose on the tank? or the IC? i wouldnt put anything on that tank. dont touch it, breathe on it, or look at it unless you are planning to replace it or fix it. that plastic tank is crap. crap, i say, crap.

i plan on using a V2 wrx slant cooler. doesnt flow the best and its not the biggest but it will get the job done. and is better than none at al.

IronMonkeyL255 · Post by **IronMonkeyL255** » Sun May 22, 2005 11:48 pm

I meant drill out/off the nipple that keeps breaking, and thread/epoxy on a 90-degree fitting to an appropriately sized hose barb.

greg donovan · Post by **greg donovan** » Mon May 23, 2005 12:44 am

i assume the one that you are talking about is the smaller top one. not the one that i broke.

IronMonkeyL255 · Post by **IronMonkeyL255** » Mon May 23, 2005 12:54 am

Yeah. The one that the i/c would sit against.

-K- · Post by **-K-** » Fri May 27, 2005 4:53 am

I've got some 90deg fitings so I'll put them in the stock tank for now. I've got an AWIC on the way so I'll test fit it with the stock tank.

IronMonkeyL255 · Post by **IronMonkeyL255** » Fri May 27, 2005 5:53 am

If you could find out, that'd be great.

All I need to do is find a way to fix the tank so it'll never bust to begin with, and I can mount the i/c.....

-K- · Post by **-K-** » Fri May 27, 2005 6:32 am

OK, I don't think there is any way to usr a 90deg fiting on the lower hose. There is no room for the hose. I think it's going to be under the IC so it shouldn't be a problem. Also I can shorten the barb because I will be using a real hose clamp not the factory one.

I tapped the tank and it came out better than I thought it would. I have 3 to 3 1/2 full threads, that's good thread engagement. Use a 17/32" drill for 1/4 NPT thread. Don't run the tap all the way in, about 2/3rds of way in should be good. I'm not going to worry about the glue part. I'm just going to use some pipe thread paste on the top of the threads so it doesn't get in the tank.

IronMonkeyL255 · Post by **IronMonkeyL255** » Fri May 27, 2005 7:38 am

I don't suppose you could get some pics.....?

MrSarcastic13 · Post by **MrSarcastic13** » Tue Jan 24, 2006 7:32 pm

Hey all,

Sorry to revive this thread but I have the exact same problem as the original poster. I am also getting a part from a boarder and was wondering the level of difficulty in changing this part out. Also what tools etc I might need. I did a mini-search and this thread was as close as I came to finding a match. Thanks!

Damien

206er · Post by **206er** » Tue Jan 24, 2006 9:26 pm

there are lots of aluminum tanks on ebay that are way cheaper and might work. sure they are for different applications but clever hose routing can solve that.

Subtle · Post by **Subtle** » Tue Jan 24, 2006 11:10 pm

Just got a wrx tank from the j/y as a fall back should the plastic one fail.

Also a rectangular aluminium catch tank is on the way from
England. ( www.nfauto.co.uk ) The battery has been relocated, so when the second tank arrives, perhaps both tanks can be installed in the space.

greg donovan · Post by **greg donovan** » Fri Apr 14, 2006 5:07 am

greg donovan wrote:
ShaggyGT wrote:Anyone havce any clear pictures of where they have their tank mounted, stock or not, and where the hoses go? I got my Legacy SS and the moron who owned it before me just took the coolant tank off!! That along with many other problems I have to fix.....

Thanks in advance!!

-Matt
here is the stock location. it is the tank w/the rad. cap on it just infront of the brake and clutch resevoirs.

here is a pic of my "repair" job.

i did my repair with the tank still on the car. so it isnt perfect. but it got the job done and i was able to drive my car immedeatly after finishing the repair. and i didnt have to monkey w/epoxies. although i may add some later for piece of mind. total cost of parts actually used was less than 2 dollars.

just wanted to add that it is still holding and there is no weeping or leaking and i have not put any epoxy on it at all.

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TURBO EXPANSION COOLANT TANK, easy and inexpensive FIX

TURBO EXPANSION COOLANT TANK, easy and inexpensive FIX