
New member with Head problem.........
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New member with Head problem.........

the factory manual says to, however I've been told from a subie engine rebuilder, you don't.
Josh
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
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LoL. that sure isnt equal.dzx wrote:Apparently 180 in/lbs is not equal to 180 ft lbs.

if you purchase a manual it should give you a pretty good idea. if you are new to it then yea i would suggest getting one anyway. it helped me a lot with my motor swap and hybriding the motor. ive NEVER done any work like that before either. now i know a lot.

00 5MT AWD 2.5 RS - New Project
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I've never replaced the head bolts with new ones. And leet me know which CV axle you need. I've got all of them for your car in good used condition. Changing them is pretty easy, but you must have an impact wrench to get the lock nut off...
1974 Porsche 914 Cam Am Limted Edition AKA the Bumble Bee
1973 Porsche 914 2.0 l -Suby swap pending
1968 Porsche 911t survivor 47k original miles
2000 2.5RS daily driver.
1999 2.5RS w/ 50+ extra whp
Suby Hai!
1973 Porsche 914 2.0 l -Suby swap pending
1968 Porsche 911t survivor 47k original miles
2000 2.5RS daily driver.
1999 2.5RS w/ 50+ extra whp
Suby Hai!
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Umm..use a magnet? If the bolt isn't aluminum, you should be able to get it out of there.blazerayvon wrote:and i was changing the head gaskets and one of the head bolts are down in the motor now. Does anyone know how 2 get it out in a Aluminum block or is it not possible?????
1995 Polo Green Subaru SVX (189k miles - 08/2007-Present)Manarius wrote:The Neo-Cons would call me a defeatist. I'd call me a realist. I'm realistically saying that a snowball has better chances in the blazes of hell than democracy has in Iraq.
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Oh. I thought he lost it. Didn't know you ought to snap them suckers off ehdzx wrote:He means the bolt snapped off in the engine block lol.

1995 Polo Green Subaru SVX (189k miles - 08/2007-Present)Manarius wrote:The Neo-Cons would call me a defeatist. I'd call me a realist. I'm realistically saying that a snowball has better chances in the blazes of hell than democracy has in Iraq.
Machine shops can usually get the broken pieces out. They can just mill them out and use a tap to clean out the threads.
For the head bolts I would strongly recommend replacing them. I'm not even sure how they will come out of my block when I get to rebuilding it They are really badly rusted!
-Michael
For the head bolts I would strongly recommend replacing them. I'm not even sure how they will come out of my block when I get to rebuilding it They are really badly rusted!
-Michael
I talked to him about this on msn. His brother in law said that the machine shop told him drilling it out would burr the aluminum. I don't remember what the torque on the head bolts is but my book showed it as being at about 180 in/lbs but it had a screwy system of tightening it. Anybody know what the final torque on the head bolts should be just to be clear?
///M
'93 Legacy SS - part out
'93 Legacy SS - part out
subaru head bolts like most modern cars are stretch bolts, you really need to follow the Factory Service Manual. Usually that type of bolt has a "torque plus angle" spec, like 160 ft-lb, plus 90 degrees (these are not the actual numbers !!!!)
you need to follow the sequence as well as the torque angle spec
i wouldn't dream of replacing heads on any motor without renewing the head bolts, without a decent excuse (if you have a 2.5 liter aluminum V-8 from a Daimler, well then that's a good excuse)
you need to follow the sequence as well as the torque angle spec
i wouldn't dream of replacing heads on any motor without renewing the head bolts, without a decent excuse (if you have a 2.5 liter aluminum V-8 from a Daimler, well then that's a good excuse)
That beer you are drinking cost more than my car
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here is the cylinder head bolt tightening procedure as per the 1992 FSM:
1.apply a thin film of engine oil to all bolts and washers
2.tighten all bolts to 22ft-lb in the numerical order and then to 51ft-lbs in numerical order
3.back off all bolts by 180deg and then again by another 180deg
4.tighten the middle 2 bolts to 25ft-lb (non turbo) and 27.1ft-lb(turbo)
5.tighten the remaining bolts in order to 11ftlb(non turbo) and 14ft lb(turbo)
6.tighten all bolts by 80 to 90degrees, but NO MORE than 90
7. tighten all bolts again by 90degrees. total re-tightening angle must not exceed 180 degrees.
did anyone's bolts make a hiss when they were loosened? mine did, the bolts must pressurize the threaded hole in the engine block. smelled hella nasty almost like gear oil or something. old oil vapor I guess.
1.apply a thin film of engine oil to all bolts and washers
2.tighten all bolts to 22ft-lb in the numerical order and then to 51ft-lbs in numerical order
3.back off all bolts by 180deg and then again by another 180deg
4.tighten the middle 2 bolts to 25ft-lb (non turbo) and 27.1ft-lb(turbo)
5.tighten the remaining bolts in order to 11ftlb(non turbo) and 14ft lb(turbo)
6.tighten all bolts by 80 to 90degrees, but NO MORE than 90
7. tighten all bolts again by 90degrees. total re-tightening angle must not exceed 180 degrees.
did anyone's bolts make a hiss when they were loosened? mine did, the bolts must pressurize the threaded hole in the engine block. smelled hella nasty almost like gear oil or something. old oil vapor I guess.
1994 Touring Wagon: ruby mica, 5mt swapped