N/A fuel pump in a Turbo, and some wastegate Q's
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N/A fuel pump in a Turbo, and some wastegate Q's
I've come to the conclusion (I think) that my fuel pump has about had it. The car's got just over 170k on it, and recently after a couple hours of driving it, after shutting it off I cannot restart it immediately. Just today it started doing the same thing when I haven't driven it yet, but it was about 90 or so today. I can crank the hell out of it, with no start.
To get back on topic, is there any chance in hell that I would be able to use a N/A fuel pump in it just to get by, maybe a month or so? Or would there be negative affects to doing this?
Thanks in advance for the help. I've just been going through too much crap with this car lately.
To get back on topic, is there any chance in hell that I would be able to use a N/A fuel pump in it just to get by, maybe a month or so? Or would there be negative affects to doing this?
Thanks in advance for the help. I've just been going through too much crap with this car lately.
Last edited by MPtyza on Sun Jul 03, 2005 5:54 am, edited 1 time in total.
-Mike
White 1988 XT6 FWD 5MT (#2) 229k
Rio Red 1991 Legacy SS 180k :( - Dead
White 1988 XT6 FWD 5MT (#2) 229k
Rio Red 1991 Legacy SS 180k :( - Dead
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- Fifth Gear
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Maybe if you keep off boost, entirely... like rig your wastegate open until you get a good enough fuel pump to ensure you don't run lean on boost, which is really where the engine danger comes in.
-Chris
91SS 4EAT stock, 200k mi
91SS 5MT rebuilt engine waiting for a shell
93TW 4EAT, Forester lift, 3" TBE, 11psi, 200k mi
94SS 5MT4.11+rLSD 311k km: RobTune550,TD05-16g @ 18psi,FMIC,3"TBE,Forester lift
91SS 4EAT stock, 200k mi
91SS 5MT rebuilt engine waiting for a shell
93TW 4EAT, Forester lift, 3" TBE, 11psi, 200k mi
94SS 5MT4.11+rLSD 311k km: RobTune550,TD05-16g @ 18psi,FMIC,3"TBE,Forester lift
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- Vikash
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Yes, running lean on boost can cause detonation!
I agree with Chris -- don't use an NA pump unless you wire your wastegate open or something.
I think you should buy one of the Impreza fuel pumps in these threads and try to make it fit:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=782906
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=784648
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=779627
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=783305
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=779956
Or post in the Parts Shed and see if a turbo owner on the board who's upgraded to a Walbro would be willing to sell you their stock pump.
I agree with Chris -- don't use an NA pump unless you wire your wastegate open or something.
I think you should buy one of the Impreza fuel pumps in these threads and try to make it fit:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=782906
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=784648
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=779627
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=783305
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=779956
Or post in the Parts Shed and see if a turbo owner on the board who's upgraded to a Walbro would be willing to sell you their stock pump.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
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- Fifth Gear
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*smacks forehead* Oh yeah - I have a stock pump sitting in my trunk now, I'm relatively sure I won't need to switch back to it (my Walbro works great so far) - if you can't find any pumps for sale make me an offer and I can sell you mine if you'd like.
-Chris
91SS 4EAT stock, 200k mi
91SS 5MT rebuilt engine waiting for a shell
93TW 4EAT, Forester lift, 3" TBE, 11psi, 200k mi
94SS 5MT4.11+rLSD 311k km: RobTune550,TD05-16g @ 18psi,FMIC,3"TBE,Forester lift
91SS 4EAT stock, 200k mi
91SS 5MT rebuilt engine waiting for a shell
93TW 4EAT, Forester lift, 3" TBE, 11psi, 200k mi
94SS 5MT4.11+rLSD 311k km: RobTune550,TD05-16g @ 18psi,FMIC,3"TBE,Forester lift
OK, I haven't been able to get a fuel pump just yet. I am still getting detonation, so would it be a good idea to wire the wastegate open until I can get a replacement? Also, how would I go about wiring it open like stated above?
One more thing, would wiring it open like that cause the engine to operate as a normal EJ22? Like would my fuel economy get a little better at all while it's wired open, and would I still need premium fuel while it's open?
Sorry if those last questions seem a little dumb, but I was wondering that the other day.
Thanks.
One more thing, would wiring it open like that cause the engine to operate as a normal EJ22? Like would my fuel economy get a little better at all while it's wired open, and would I still need premium fuel while it's open?
Sorry if those last questions seem a little dumb, but I was wondering that the other day.
Thanks.
-Mike
White 1988 XT6 FWD 5MT (#2) 229k
Rio Red 1991 Legacy SS 180k :( - Dead
White 1988 XT6 FWD 5MT (#2) 229k
Rio Red 1991 Legacy SS 180k :( - Dead
I was poking around NASIOC earlier today, and they had mentioned disconnecting the rod on the wastegate to keep it open, but mine simply won't budge, and I don't really want to force it and risk breaking it. Is disconnecting the rod even a good idea at all for this?
-Mike
White 1988 XT6 FWD 5MT (#2) 229k
Rio Red 1991 Legacy SS 180k :( - Dead
White 1988 XT6 FWD 5MT (#2) 229k
Rio Red 1991 Legacy SS 180k :( - Dead
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- Fifth Gear
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Yeah, you'll have to disconnect the rod from the wastegate first...there should be a little jesus-clip holding the rod to the wastegate lever that must come off first. You don't want to wire your wastegate open with the rod connected, you'll have a much tougher time of it and you'll probably end up altering the preload on the spring compressing it permanently like that.
And, with the wastegate wired open, since you won't build any boost, yes you can buy regular gasoline.
What won't budge, the rod's connection to the wastegate lever? Or the wastegate itself?
And, with the wastegate wired open, since you won't build any boost, yes you can buy regular gasoline.
What won't budge, the rod's connection to the wastegate lever? Or the wastegate itself?
-Chris
91SS 4EAT stock, 200k mi
91SS 5MT rebuilt engine waiting for a shell
93TW 4EAT, Forester lift, 3" TBE, 11psi, 200k mi
94SS 5MT4.11+rLSD 311k km: RobTune550,TD05-16g @ 18psi,FMIC,3"TBE,Forester lift
91SS 4EAT stock, 200k mi
91SS 5MT rebuilt engine waiting for a shell
93TW 4EAT, Forester lift, 3" TBE, 11psi, 200k mi
94SS 5MT4.11+rLSD 311k km: RobTune550,TD05-16g @ 18psi,FMIC,3"TBE,Forester lift
This clip on the rod, how would I go about taking that off? I believe that's why I can't disconnect it. It's the rod's connection that I'm having problems with. I believe the wastegate itself is fine, since I can move the rod back and forth.
How do I wire the wastegate open anyway? I've searched for a while and haven't come up with anything yet.
Thanks again for the help with this. Damn these turbos
How do I wire the wastegate open anyway? I've searched for a while and haven't come up with anything yet.
Thanks again for the help with this. Damn these turbos

-Mike
White 1988 XT6 FWD 5MT (#2) 229k
Rio Red 1991 Legacy SS 180k :( - Dead
White 1988 XT6 FWD 5MT (#2) 229k
Rio Red 1991 Legacy SS 180k :( - Dead
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- Fifth Gear
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Hell, I have a spare walbro and my original SS pump ( with 120,000 on it) make me an offer and shipping on the pump. Why not just get the pump instead of jimmying it for now.
There are now two pump offers. Take one and let the car run!
There are now two pump offers. Take one and let the car run!
Yes I have too many Subarus
No you can't have one
05 GD-STI
01- RS- Swapped-07 STI
00- GF
93 SS- "the original Robtune" (now in new hands)
No you can't have one
05 GD-STI
01- RS- Swapped-07 STI
00- GF
93 SS- "the original Robtune" (now in new hands)
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- Fifth Gear
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The clip holding the wastegate rod on the lever is just a clip; get some needle-nose pliers, get a good grip on it, and pull it off.
Just be cautious when you remove it; it is called a "jesus-clip" for a reson. (*ping!* "Jesus! Where'd it go?!")
Wiring the wastegate open just means disconnecting the lever from the rod, then pushing it all the way open and finding something to tie or wire the other end to, to hold it in that position. It's not brain surgery so don't be too worried.
Although, I've got to say, the best course of action here would have to be purchasing a good stock pump from someone on the board that's upgraded to the Walbro. And there are quite a few of us...
Just be cautious when you remove it; it is called a "jesus-clip" for a reson. (*ping!* "Jesus! Where'd it go?!")
Wiring the wastegate open just means disconnecting the lever from the rod, then pushing it all the way open and finding something to tie or wire the other end to, to hold it in that position. It's not brain surgery so don't be too worried.
Although, I've got to say, the best course of action here would have to be purchasing a good stock pump from someone on the board that's upgraded to the Walbro. And there are quite a few of us...
-Chris
91SS 4EAT stock, 200k mi
91SS 5MT rebuilt engine waiting for a shell
93TW 4EAT, Forester lift, 3" TBE, 11psi, 200k mi
94SS 5MT4.11+rLSD 311k km: RobTune550,TD05-16g @ 18psi,FMIC,3"TBE,Forester lift
91SS 4EAT stock, 200k mi
91SS 5MT rebuilt engine waiting for a shell
93TW 4EAT, Forester lift, 3" TBE, 11psi, 200k mi
94SS 5MT4.11+rLSD 311k km: RobTune550,TD05-16g @ 18psi,FMIC,3"TBE,Forester lift
OK guys, label me an idiot. I found the culprit for my crank and no start issue. It was the damn connector under the rear seat. Although I already wired around the remaining three wires (someone already did the first two), I never thought to redo the other two. I did that late last night, and it seems to be fixed.
Could that have been why I was detonating a little while on boost, that damn connector?
Now when I first read wire the wastegate open, I thought it would be wiring like electrical wiring. That's why I got confused about it. I was out there looking around like 'what damn wires?!'
I figured the 'jesus clip' was something like that, and I've never screwed around with those before. The whole concept seems simple enough now, thanks.
I may still do it until I can get a replacement for my IAC valve. The high idle has been eating gas like a sumbitch. I just started my new job, so I'm still on limited budget until I get paid on Thursday. I figure that if I'm gonna have to deal with it eating gas, then I might as well not have it eat premium like that. I really hate to have to do this, but I really have no choice right now.

Now when I first read wire the wastegate open, I thought it would be wiring like electrical wiring. That's why I got confused about it. I was out there looking around like 'what damn wires?!'

I figured the 'jesus clip' was something like that, and I've never screwed around with those before. The whole concept seems simple enough now, thanks.
I may still do it until I can get a replacement for my IAC valve. The high idle has been eating gas like a sumbitch. I just started my new job, so I'm still on limited budget until I get paid on Thursday. I figure that if I'm gonna have to deal with it eating gas, then I might as well not have it eat premium like that. I really hate to have to do this, but I really have no choice right now.
-Mike
White 1988 XT6 FWD 5MT (#2) 229k
Rio Red 1991 Legacy SS 180k :( - Dead
White 1988 XT6 FWD 5MT (#2) 229k
Rio Red 1991 Legacy SS 180k :( - Dead
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- Fifth Gear
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Ah, yes, I see where your confusion came in... I was referring to using mechanics wire to physically hold the wastegate lever in the "open" position. Never realized it might sound as though there was a control signal that needed to be tied to ground or +12V 
The connector under the backseat has been a source of issues for me as well, at one point the power wire to the fuel pump melted the hell out of that connector, I had to bypass it with some good wire. Apparently the wire is good enough to provide current to the fuel pump, but the connector itself provides some additional resistance that over the course of a long road trip could turn into the melted connector situation.
If you were having trouble with intermittent connections there, it is entirely possible that the fuel pump is still good and new wires will fix you up.

The connector under the backseat has been a source of issues for me as well, at one point the power wire to the fuel pump melted the hell out of that connector, I had to bypass it with some good wire. Apparently the wire is good enough to provide current to the fuel pump, but the connector itself provides some additional resistance that over the course of a long road trip could turn into the melted connector situation.
If you were having trouble with intermittent connections there, it is entirely possible that the fuel pump is still good and new wires will fix you up.
-Chris
91SS 4EAT stock, 200k mi
91SS 5MT rebuilt engine waiting for a shell
93TW 4EAT, Forester lift, 3" TBE, 11psi, 200k mi
94SS 5MT4.11+rLSD 311k km: RobTune550,TD05-16g @ 18psi,FMIC,3"TBE,Forester lift
91SS 4EAT stock, 200k mi
91SS 5MT rebuilt engine waiting for a shell
93TW 4EAT, Forester lift, 3" TBE, 11psi, 200k mi
94SS 5MT4.11+rLSD 311k km: RobTune550,TD05-16g @ 18psi,FMIC,3"TBE,Forester lift
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- Third Gear
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