Anyway I just wanted to replace the knock sensor so CEL would stop from coming on ever fifty miles or so and give the car a little bit of a tune up with the Mug Mod and a K&N air filter. I bought one of those 100% spill proof cups and epoxy from my local target. HomeDepot didn’t have any of the fittings I was looking for so I had to go to this place called Stan's to get them. I also bought all new vacuum lines from the local hardware store (flat black nothing fancy). My dad and I thought that we would be able to do all this in a day (we were wrong) So we decided to start off with the Mug.There are a few things that I never came across in any of the threads about the Mug that I think might help someone like me if they ever want to do this by them selves:
1st off: I know this may sound stupid but until I took the cup over to my grandparents house to use their band saw to cut the cup apart I did not know it was metal. I though that it was all plastic I know it sounds stupid now but shit I couldn’t tell by holding it and looking at it with my own eyes till i tried to cut it.
2ndly: After we (my dad and I) found out it wasn’t plastic we took the hacksaw to it. We cut the bottom off of the cup and we realized that we didn’t even need to cut it. The reason being that the cup had air insulating between the plastic and the metal of the cup. All that is needed to take the cup apart is a large mallet or hammer of some sort. Now mind you the cup is a little bit of a tighter squeeze with the factory edge but it will fit with a little bit a effort and WD-40 will make it just slide right on.
3rd of all: depending on weather or not you decide to cut or keep the factory edges you may want to not copy legazee’s design exactly. If your going to keep both factory edges or even just one of them, it might be a good Idea to relocate the wastegate bleed hose connection to the bottom side of the cup. Makes it abit easier to put new vacuum line on it.
And finally don't use epoxy shit melts in the heat. JB Weld all the way. If your concerned about the looks of it paint it, cause its going to get scratched all to hell when your drilling the holes anyway.
After the Mug had sat over night we started early the next morning. It only took us about ummm... ten hours to get the Intake manifold off so that we could see the knock sensor. We found the Haynes Repair Manual a little lacking of detail but for the most part it was correct.
Needless to say we were pretty tiered after all that work and we didn’t even replace the sensor till a few days later. After we got the Manifold off my dad gave me the job of cleaning the top of the engine 
. There was about a half inch of grease and oil sediment built up. So I took the thing out that sat on top of the block and connected to the radiator to get more elbow room and plugged all the intake holes with rags. Four and a half bottles of carburetor cleaner, three metal tooth brushes and two days later, 
the top of the block was clean enough to eat an egg off of. By this point both me and my dad got kinda anal and decided to wash scrub and paint the guards to the drive belts, all the plastic caps with raised letters, both dipsticks, the battery hold down clamps, the plastic cover that went over the coil and throttle body and the air collector that went over the turbo all of which red 
. By this point it was getting to be middle of the weak and I wasn’t sure whether or not I wanted to paint the manifold which meant I would be driving my dads bronco for a couple more days. So I ended up saying to hell with it and ordered the throttle body gasket and came home and took everything off the manifold. Masked it off that night and painted it when I got off work the next day. After it dried for a few hours I put the manifold back together and it was lookin sweet. 
The next day I had to work again so I got a late start on putting the manifold back into the car. Everything was going good and we were on schedule for our midnight deadline up until my dad broke one of the plastic pieces to the PCV 
so we had to call it a night. My dad was able to get the piece of plastic put back together with JB Weld and the Dremal. We were right back to where we were when it broke by morning. Now the only other hard part to this hole operation besides draining the coolant and putting the Mug Mod in, was getting that damn piece of plastic that goes from the turbo to the throttlebody on. We ended up puttin it on and taking it back off about twelve times 
. We filled the radiator thing up with coolant, the coolant hose that was to the turbo had been broken off since we had bought the car, so we fixed that with some JB Weld and the Dremal. Adjusted the accelerator cabals and tension to the drive belts put the battery back and she fired right up 
. At first the idle was a little high but after she ran for a minute it dropped down to normal. She did the same thing when I first turned her over this morning but I figure that ECU just needs to adjust to running the car like it should 
