Bolt sizing and stuff..

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scuzzy
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Bolt sizing and stuff..

Post by scuzzy »

allright, i'm looking to drop my EJ22T motor in the car this week; I've got everything except a series of bolts to "correct" some stuff.

basically, I need the bellhousing(transmission) to engine block bolts - or ones that have the same length and thread pitch so that I can mount the engine onto the engine stand.

then I need a bolt to seal off the second output from the water pump for the turbo, if anyone has done this before maybe they know what size and length bolt you need.

I'm not sure of what else, I think that's about all. I need something to close off the turbocharger drain line so that stuff doesn't get down into my oil pan.

I'm also considering just leaving the turbocharger on and connected to the coolant/oil lines but not connected to the exhaust or intake; that way I don't have to close off these ports.

the drawback is that the turbo would have it's fins exposed to the elements, and/or if the seals started leaking I'd lose oil or something...
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Post by THAWA »

What's wrong with the turbo?
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scuzzy
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Post by scuzzy »

nothing is wrong with it, I don't have the turbo ECU to run it.

I also don't have the exhaust piping to support it, my crossmember is the wrong; etc.

other reasons too, but the turbo will come in the future.
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vrg3
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Post by vrg3 »

Read up on what Steve (evolutionmovement) did when setting his EJ22T block up for naturally aspirated duty.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
scuzzy
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Post by scuzzy »

vrg3 wrote:Read up on what Steve (evolutionmovement) did when setting his EJ22T block up for naturally aspirated duty.
I've ran through a thousand of his posts; so either it's older than that or I'm missing.

does ANYONE have a link?
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Post by vrg3 »

I think this is the thread I was thinking of:

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=17538

But maybe we should just rehash this stuff...

For the extra nipple on the water pump, I would suggest just getting a 1/2" coolant bypass cap from the auto parts store and using a hose clamp to secure it on the nipple on the pump.

You'll probably also want to put another 1/2" cap on the coolant nipple attached to the passenger side cylinder head.

For the oil drain line, I think you can stick a 5/8" bolt into the hose and put a clamp around it. If you could find a 5/8" oil-safe bypass cap, you could use it instead of the hose-and-bolt, but I don't know where you'd find such a thing.

You'll also need to plug the port that feeds the turbo's oil supply line. A short M12 bolt and an annealed copper washer ought to do the trick; maybe Steve can verify what thread pitch he used. Like I said in the other thread, you might be able to use one of the coolant banjo bolts off the stock turbo.

I think the engine-to-bellhousing fasteners are M10x1.25. The lower ones are studs and the upper ones are bolts.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
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Post by 0perose »

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=22996

this dude is selling harness, computers, injector
yo mang, can I get a rootshell?

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scuzzy
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Post by scuzzy »

I've got the harness, injectors, uppipe, manifold, and intake manifold, I just need the ECU and the turbo crossmember (something I don't care to go into swapping. you have to take apart the steering rack and front lower suspension to do, and I'll pass.
91 Legacy Wagon, Total Rally Car.

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http://www.youtube.com/mobilepolice/
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