NOS system

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Tleg93
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NOS system

Post by Tleg93 »

:D
I've been looking at a NOS system for my 93 NA legacy. The folks at Holley recommend a #5123 and say that it will work fine. I was hoping to find one that has been used.
Last edited by Tleg93 on Tue Jul 29, 2003 6:48 pm, edited 2 times in total.
--Scott--

1991 - Rio Red SS
Brat4by4
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Post by Brat4by4 »

Do you have a turbo or NA? If turbo you'd be better off with a wet system. If NA, you might be better of getting a turbo. And $600 is waaay too much to pay for 60 (volatile & short-lived) horse.

Don't get me wrong. I'm thinking of doing around a 25 shot wet system after I'm intercooled with turboback exhaust... possibly. But dry systems are asking for trouble. Whether you fool the ECU or not, it's still not meant to comensate for all that extra oxygen to burn... plus our ECU's would learn around any "fooling" measures in some shape or form.
1993 WMP BC6 5MT EJ22T 9psi 3.9:1 213k 205/55R16

62.6 m/s @ 0.66 bar. Gotta love boost. :)
Tleg93
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Post by Tleg93 »

Thanks for the tip.
--Scott--

1991 - Rio Red SS
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Post by entirelyturbo »

I'm going to be very general here, I'm sure I'm leaving vital parts out, but this is my personal opinion of nitrous oxide.

Brat alluded to it, and it is true. Nitrous oxide lives up to its namesake: oxide. What you're doing by introducing NOS into your engine is basically adding a WHOLE bunch more oxygen. By doing that, you're basically leaning your engine out by a ridiculous amount. Sure your ECU will recognize that via the O2 sensor and dump a whole bunch more fuel in to compensate, but I personally wouldn't trust a factory fuel system to properly inject enough fuel efficiently.

Therefore, I will never, in any future car projects I may do, put NOS on my car without doing serious upgrades to my fuel system: injectors, rails, fuel pump, etc etc.
"Der Wahnsinn ist nur eine schmale Brücke/die Ufer sind Vernunft und Trieb"

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mTk
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Post by mTk »

Most kits will modify the FPR vacum (well, my zex kit does anyway). I've only been able to run it a few times, but i liked what i got.

MK
1992 BC672 AWD 5MT
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Post by Brat4by4 »

I guess I should have brought this out before... But wet-systems take care of this disparity in the amount of oxygen available to burn. It pre-mixes a set amount of gasoline with the nitrous as it injects it. This way you ecu doesn't have to compensate it just has to worry about handling all the power. This is more suited to boosted applications because your intake manifold actually gets "wet" with the NOS and gasoline being sprayed in there.

The safest option for NA is direct port. But this is incredibly expensive, but also the most accurate as it can meter the NOS/gas mixture for each cylinder. Get a NOS catalogue if you want to look into this option. They list everything they have under the sun and also give the recommended applications. They even have a small stealth system that runs of 9V batteries!
1993 WMP BC6 5MT EJ22T 9psi 3.9:1 213k 205/55R16

62.6 m/s @ 0.66 bar. Gotta love boost. :)
Tleg93
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Turbo or NOS

Post by Tleg93 »

I was told by someone that in order for my '93 NA car to have turbo I have to get forged pistons and all this other stuff. It seems a little far fetched to me but I don't know. Do the sport sedans come with all this different hardware? What do I really need to add turbo to my 2.2L machine and I'm thinking minimum requirements? How does stroke come into play when comparing a turbo and non-trbo? Is the stroke different between two 2.2L subaru engines one turbo and one not?
Last edited by Tleg93 on Tue Jul 29, 2003 7:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.
--Scott--

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Post by Brat4by4 »

There is a thread comparing the turbo block to the NA block. Stroke should be the same, turbos have dished pistons to lower compression which is necessary for (relatively) high boost. Forged pistons are recommended for ANY boosted application, our turbo pistons are high-pressure cast which is as close as you can get to forging without actually forging them.

If you plan on turbocharging your block, I personally say forget about it. There is so much done to the EJ22T that you would spend 4-times as much trying to get your block to the same place. Tell me if you can get your non-intercooled car accelerating above 130 for 2 miles straight without the temp needle moving...

Find the other thread I speak of, the differences are Night/Day to me. You can't beat the reliability. Or you're better off trying to boost a 2.5 RS engine, which is done every day (there are around 5 of them in my area alone). Otherwise, go for the legacy turbo engine.
1993 WMP BC6 5MT EJ22T 9psi 3.9:1 213k 205/55R16

62.6 m/s @ 0.66 bar. Gotta love boost. :)
scottzg
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Post by scottzg »

i can go 130 for 2 miles straight w/o the temp needle moving....


cant go much faster i rekkin...
[url=http://www.thawa.net/gallery/albums/album108/DSCF0330.jpg]90 legacy of awesomeness[/url]
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Post by Brat4by4 »

boosting the entire time.... your sucking in relatively cold air whilst turbos are heating the mess out of the incoming air. a whole lot more strain on the cooling system, thus the revised water jackets, larger coolant passages, and much larger coolant capacity.
1993 WMP BC6 5MT EJ22T 9psi 3.9:1 213k 205/55R16

62.6 m/s @ 0.66 bar. Gotta love boost. :)
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