TD04 leaking oil and boost question

[waldo320]

First question is how much boost should I be geeting from a TD04 from a 04 forester with 4000 miles on it. Next for my vacum line on the turbo from the waste gate to the compressor housing I have T'd to my bov and right now I am only geting about 5lb of boosts.
Finally why is there oil still driping from my down pipe like maybe a 5 inch circle of oil from letting it idle for 10 min is there any way I can check to see if the tdo4 needs a rebuild ? Right now I am using a -8an feed line with a 3/4" return to my oil pan. But on a good note drove it like 2 miles today and she moves!!!

[vrg3]

Please try to group your words into sentences and your sentences into paragraphs. Please!

Your turbo is not a VF11. It may be a TD04.

A TD04 properly set up without any other boost controls will make around 9 psi.

Why is your blowoff valve teed into the line between the wastegate actuator to the compressor outlet?

What kind of blowoff valve are you using?

At what point are you measuring boost, and how are you measuring it?

What kind of intercooler are you using?

If the oil is dripping from the turbo, you're either lubricating it wrong or a seal in the turbo is failing. An -8 AN feed line actually seems big, but that's probably not a problem. Where are you taking the feed from? A 3/4" return line is also appropriately sized -- does it go straight down to the oil pan and empty above the level of oil in the pan?

[waldo320]

The answer to the first question is yes it is a tdo4.

The reason the compressor vacum and waste gate vacum are T'd togher is all the subaru turbos are conected that way that I have seen on line. If that is wrong what do you recomend changeing.

I am mesuring boost from a T in the in the fuel pressure regulator vacum line. Measured with a autometer boost vacum gauge.

I am using a side mount interooler in front of my front right tire from a 95 eagle talon with 2" pipeing all the way around.

I am using a turbo xs bov with a weld on fiting pre maf.

I am taking the oil feed from a oil filter attachment that was desined to go to an oil cooler part number PRM 189 at summit racing.

The oil return comes straight down the inside of the up pipe to the oil pan, where the fiiting for the return is about inch from the top of the pan and above the first bafel.

Hope that helps!

[vrg3]

Thank you.

The reason the compressor vacum and waste gate vacum are T'd togher is all the subaru turbos are conected that way that I have seen on line.

Yes, those two nipples should be connected together. But why is the blowoff valve teed in there?

I am using a side mount interooler in front of my front right tire from a 95 eagle talon with 2" pipeing all the way around.

The intercooler and its piping are responsible for at least part of the discrepancy between the 9 psi calibration of the wastegate actuator and the 5 psi measured in your intake manifold.

I am using a turbo xs bov with a weld on fiting pre maf.

Connect its vacuum line to the intake manifold.

Is your blowoff valve ever opening? Cuz I don't think it would. Maybe surge has damaged your turbo.

I am taking the oil feed from a oil filter attachment that was desined to go to an oil cooler part number PRM 189 at summit racing.

The oil return comes straight down the inside of the up pipe to the oil pan, where the fiiting for the return is about inch from the top of the pan and above the first bafel.

That all sounds okay, as long as the oil return isn't really close to the uppipe.

I would say to try to find the actual source of the oil leak. Clean everything off with a degreaser and then start the engine and see if you can pinpoint it.

[waldo320]

Yes, those two nipples should be connected together. But why is the blowoff valve teed in there?

I didnt really think much of it where should I run the vacum line from the turbo to?

I will take the down pipe off and clean the exhaust side of the turbo run it again for a sec take it off and see where the oil is comming from.

The intercooler and its piping are responsible for at least part of the discrepancy between the 9 psi calibration of the wastegate actuator and the 5 psi measured in your intake manifold

So am I actually running 9psi or 5 psi and if I am running 5 how could I change that to make it run 9?

Also T'd the vacum line from the throtle body to my bov, will that work ok?

[vrg3]

For now, connect the nipple on the compressor outlet directly to the wastgate actuator. Either remove the tee or cap it off.

The line on top of the throttle body won't do. You need one coming right off the manifold. You could tee into the brake booster line, or the FPR line. Just be careful when dealing with the FPR line; a leak in that hose could grenade your motor easily.

You are running 5 psi in the intake manifold. The pressure at the compressor outlet is higher, though. You can measure it by teeing your boost gauge into the line from the compressor outlet to the wastegate actuator (i.e. where you have your BOV connected to right now).

Don't worry about trying to increase boost just yet -- first make sure your turbo is healthy!

[waldo320]

Well figured out why my turbo was leaking oil the oil return had a fold in it so it would block up all the oil and force to the down pipe. I will get those vacum lines switched and a new oil return line and I will be running again tonight.

[waldo320]

Fixed the oil return and switched the vacum lines, and I am still only getting 5psi. Next I am getting oil out of the air outlet on the compresor side. So tommorw I will hunt down some new compressor seals.

[waldo320]

There is oil comming from both the inlet and outlet on the compressor side, and oil comming out of the where up pipe meets the turbo, and oil comming from the turbine on the exhasust side. What do you recomend to fix the problem?

[vrg3]

If you've fixed the kinked oil return line, then the turbo's probably shot... The kinked return line was probably starving it from lubrication and the incorrectly plumbed blowoff valve was probably causing it to surge.

You could rebuild it, but it'd probably be cheaper to just find another used TD04 (after fixing everything else first, of course).