weird happenings

The Scooby · Post by **The Scooby** » Fri Jan 20, 2006 3:21 am

so when i first got my 92 SS she ran great, then i put in my boost gauge, still great, then the MBC, runs even better until now.

changed out the knock sensor because at about 4k rpms it seems as though it put timing back to base then fully advances it again. it just falls on its face, you can watch the tach and watch the RPM's raise fast, then slow and stumble then fast agin once it passes about 5k rpms.

so the tried that new knock sensor, little or nothing, tried a new MAF, still little or nothing.

gutted my mid pipe, nothing.

im going to put on some new plug wires and fuel filter if it doesnt fix itself. also i was wondering are legacy spark plugs different between a 2.2n/a engine and turbo 2.2? im running the 11's and cannot remember what the gap is set at, they are only like 2 months old.

free5ty1e · Post by **free5ty1e** » Fri Jan 20, 2006 3:19 pm

Don't the turbos use heat range 6? BKRE6-11's or something like that? Not sure what the N/A's use, but probably heat range 7 (BKRE7-11's?)

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Fri Jan 20, 2006 3:37 pm

Both turbos and atmos use the same plugs. Heat range 6, 1.1mm gap (that's what the "11" means). NGK BKR6E-11 is the plug most of us here recommend.

sammydafish · Post by **sammydafish** » Fri Jan 20, 2006 3:38 pm

NGK catalog lists only the BKR6E-11 for both NA and Turbo

BTW, gap is listed at 0.044" ... what do you cats run? Anyone gap them down a little or run a cooler plug when they turn up the boost? how were the results? ... I'm going to do some plug experimintation soon when I drop on the new turbo and start tuning my rig.

Matt Monson · Post by **Matt Monson** » Fri Jan 20, 2006 5:59 pm

If you are going to run a significantly smaller gap, you should get the same plug minus the -11 designation. Gapping down to say .030" puts too much bend in the electrode. They make the same plugs in a smaller initial gap.

If I were running an Ej22t with something like a TD05-16g, I would definitely run a smaller gap and go one step colder...

dzx · Post by **dzx** » Fri Jan 20, 2006 6:00 pm

I'm regapping mine down lower because after 10psi the engine stumbles and does the problem your having. I have the NGK Iridium plugs that are one step colder, probably gap them down to .028 or something like that.

*edit: I guess the NGK Iridium plugs come gapped at .030 and are extremely easy to destroy so i'll probably leave them alone. Next thing is timing. I'll probably advance my timing until I get a little knock because i think after 10psi, the timing is retarded a lot for some reason, this would explain why the car keeps building boost but not a lot of power. (ran it up past 20psi in first the other day to check it) The apex'i has a knock monitor.

sammydafish · Post by **sammydafish** » Fri Jan 20, 2006 6:17 pm

dzx wrote: *edit: I guess the NGK Iridium plugs come gapped at .030 and are extremely easy to destroy so i'll probably leave them alone. Next thing is timing. I'll probably advance my timing until I get a little knock because i think after 10psi, the timing is retarded a lot for some reason, this would explain why the car keeps building boost but not a lot of power. (ran it up past 20psi in first the other day to check it) The apex'i has a knock monitor.

yup, if you want to run iridiums you need to order them in the gap you need, can't gap them, the tips break

The Scooby · Post by **The Scooby** » Fri Jan 20, 2006 8:35 pm

what about this, if the bushings are worn out in my turbo... and had alot of shaft play could that cause the same problems? lack of power even though its running the correvt PSI i have it set at? because of the extra movement its not pushing all the right CFM??

dzx · Post by **dzx** » Fri Jan 20, 2006 8:41 pm

If you're getting the same boost, you should be getting the same power.

The Scooby · Post by **The Scooby** » Fri Jan 20, 2006 8:43 pm

that makes sence, im just getting really freakin anoyed with this, because its seems like it got worse now that i gutted my mid pipe...

sammydafish · Post by **sammydafish** » Fri Jan 20, 2006 10:20 pm

The Scooby wrote:what about this, if the bushings are worn out in my turbo... and had alot of shaft play could that cause the same problems? lack of power even though its running the correvt PSI i have it set at? because of the extra movement its not pushing all the right CFM??

if your turbo was that worn out it would squeal like a banshee when the wheel came in contact with the housing. They are usually leaking oil like a sieve by then too

dzx · Post by **dzx** » Sat Jan 21, 2006 7:10 am

I found out my problem today when i had the codes pulled. Turns out when Quality Auto Sound destroyed my computer and had to order a new one, they put in an ecu for a naturally aspirated 97 legacy . So i'm going to have words with the regional manager tomorrow.

The Scooby · Post by **The Scooby** » Mon Jan 23, 2006 8:51 pm

ok what do you guys think about this, TPS sensor? that could be causeing my problem, also a thing to think about the fuel filter, and plug wires, maybe the coil pack is going back or the ignitor moduel?

dzx · Post by **dzx** » Mon Jan 23, 2006 9:31 pm

Is there a CEL?

The Scooby · Post by **The Scooby** » Mon Jan 23, 2006 9:33 pm

no... this all started to happen after i pressure washed my engine bay, i got a map code, and knock code, air dried them out, ran fine... then latly its just getting worese and worese. no CEL's but also no power.

Splinter · Post by **Splinter** » Mon Jan 23, 2006 9:36 pm

Have you tried running Vikash's scantool?

The Scooby · Post by **The Scooby** » Mon Jan 23, 2006 9:37 pm

no... what the heck is that??

Splinter · Post by **Splinter** » Mon Jan 23, 2006 9:39 pm

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=16219

Gives you readings for TPS, MAF, and a bunch of other stuff that would be completely invaluable for diagnosing this problem.

Basically a Select Monitor that runs from a laptop.

The Scooby · Post by **The Scooby** » Mon Jan 23, 2006 9:43 pm

dont have a laptop... or access to one and cant get my computer close to my car...

Splinter · Post by **Splinter** » Mon Jan 23, 2006 9:45 pm

Having your computer next to your car wouldnt really help anyway, you'd need to be able to drive somewhat

Seriously, find a laptop. You must have a friend or a coworker or something who has one you can borrow for a few hours.

It'd be really useful to get some voltage readings and such.

The Scooby · Post by **The Scooby** » Mon Jan 23, 2006 10:01 pm

ya i just called my dad and he is going to try to find a used one around his company that they dont use any more. because i also have All Data and would be nice to have it on my laptop so if i have a problem i can look it up while im working on my car and not have to run in the house, post on here and wait for a response.

Splinter · Post by **Splinter** » Mon Jan 23, 2006 10:11 pm

Good luck

The Scooby · Post by **The Scooby** » Mon Jan 23, 2006 10:13 pm

thanks for all the help.

The Scooby · Post by **The Scooby** » Tue Jan 24, 2006 2:39 am

is there anything else anyone can think of trying before i get the money for a laptop, which will be months, i unpluged the sparkplug wires one by one at idle to see if i just had a dead cylnder or something, and all are fireing.

do you think maybe a clogged fuel filter, not allowing all the fuel it needs at WOT pulls and thats why its down on power, or plugs incorrectally gapped and the flame is getting blown out at WOT?

douglas vincent · Post by **douglas vincent** » Tue Jan 24, 2006 3:08 am

Ebay Laptops can be had for less than $100 that do the job.

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weird happenings

weird happenings