Cv's

[subist]

Hi,
I've got a 92 legcay gt auto.
How do you tell which one of you cv's is faulty? How do you tell if a rear one is faulty? or whether its the drive-shaft or half shaft? I've tried driving in circles to hear clicking but it doesn't do it. It only clicks when you accelerate very hard in a straight line.......
Thanks for your help.

Luke

[entirelyturbo]

That could be a wheel bearing also...

I haven't heard of too many rear CV axles going out. It's certainly possible, but they have little stress on them, since they don't change direction very much.

In any case, if you need axles, I can't recommend www.cvaxles.com enough. They are one of the best axle manufacturers in the world!

[Grant]

Trashed my passenger side joint during a fast 60 miles of dirt joy ride through the hills of Wyoming. Anyhow, anyone know of any write ups anywhere on how to replace these at home? What's the cost of new ones. I know with my old Suby it was cheaper to buy the front axle and do both of them instead of individual. Does this still apply?

[legacy92ej22t]

I did both my front axles myself using a Haynes manual. The Haynes walks you through it pretty good and it only cost around $5 US. My passenger side was super easy to replace but I had BIG problems with the driver side which kept my car off the road for about two weeks! Check out viewtopic.php?t=94&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=30 to get an idea of the worst case senario. Most people haven't had big problems though.

[georryan]

Sorry to sabatoge your thread, but I thought I'd ask a quick question. All my boots are in good shape. I just changed the passanger cv joint, and the noise is still there. It isn't a bearing noise it is a cv noise. It only happens on left hand turns while under power. Could it be that hte cv joint I got is a bad one? I would think so, but I don't want to go through the trouble of changing it again if it could be the driver's side one. What do you guys think?

-Ryan

As far as changing the cv joint, it isn't really a hard job. It can be done in an hour and a half if you have a good idea of what your doing and don't come across any problems. My first one I did took me 3 hours but that was also because I followed every step of the haynes manual and took time to make sure I was doing it right. Get a book and check it out, it isn't that bad. I would suggest you have a torque wrench or find a friend that has one when you put everything back together.

[Grant]

Okay just read through the four pages of that old cv replacement post and have decided to have a shop do the replacement for me. Too many problems and I have neither the tools, nor the time. Anyhow, going to go buy the parts tomorrow and take it to a Subaru shop near me in a couple days. Here's what it does. When I turn right AND am in gear and giving gas I get a loud clicking/popping sound. Doesn't do it when in neutral. Only on right turns. Also shudders pretty bad around 75 but I still haven't had it aligned since I replaced the control arm. I am still planning on buying some GR2s and don't want to have to pay to align it twice.
Grant

[whitemr2]

I found this thread via the search option, and decided to post here, as the original topic of this thread addresses my question - how do you tell WHICH CV joint is bad? I know that a clicking noise under accelerating or decelerating would indicate an inboard CV joint is bad, and a clicking noise while turning would indicate an outboard CV joint. What isn't clear is *which* outboard joint is bad if the clicking is heard while making a left turn. I'm pretty certain it'd be the passenger side one (right side), but would feel better if someone could confirm this.

The car is a '91 Legacy wagon, AWD. Both front axles were replaced a little more than a year ago with rebuilt ones from a local auto parts store. All CV boots are intact; there are no signs of CV grease around any of the joints.

Thanks!