Waterpump *UPDATE- EMERGENCY*

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Splinter
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Waterpump *UPDATE- EMERGENCY*

Post by Splinter »

What tools do you need to replace the water pump? Aside from the ordinary wrenches and stuff.

Since its connected to the timing belt...
Last edited by Splinter on Sat Feb 11, 2006 12:44 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by subawhatsubawho »

You will need a big ass socket (22mm me thinks) for the crank pulley and something to hold the pulley while turning.

I usually just rest my breaker bar in a pipe on a piece of 2x4 near the battery and kick the starter over once or twice. DON'T LET IT START!!

Then you can just undo the bolt and remove the pulley.

It's mostly all 10, 12, 14, and I think a 16 or 17..could be wrong but I just did one last week. You will also need a bench vise or 6" C-clamp to compress the timing belt tensioner. Do it slooowly. Take the pulley (looks like cog) off of the waterpump while it is still in the car. I learned the hardway. I also found it easy just to remove the A/C pulley set-up rather then try and screw with it. Mine have all been rusty. I have a couple lying around so with help from the stealership I am going to rebuild one.

DO THE OILPUMP SEALS AND SCREWS WHILE YOU HAVE THE TIMING BELT OFF. Now would be the time to do the cam seals if so inclined.
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Post by Splinter »

Do I need a compression tool to set it to TDC?
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Post by subawhatsubawho »

You don't have to set it to TDC. (well sort of)

Do a search on the board for timing belt. It's as easy as lining up the marks on the cams with the marks on the back cam covers.

I wish they made it so the cams can be locked. They always move on me! The first one I did ran like shit after because I was a little off.

Your NEW belt will have arrows and white lines on it. You want to line the lines up with the marks on the cam....this is tricky.
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Post by Splinter »

Whats the best way to kick the starter without starting the engine? Unplug the coilpack?
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Post by subawhatsubawho »

yup
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Post by Splinter »

How much work is it to do the cam gaskets?

Remember this is someone who's done no work on a block before.
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Post by douglas vincent »

Buy a chain link wrench, then you can loop it over the crank pulley and hold it in place. I LOVE mine. There is an actual name for this device but I can't remember it off the top of my head. Sorry....

Remember!!!!!!!!!!!!This!!!!!!! There are two marks on both cranks, AND the crank pulley. On the Head Pullys, the mark IS NOT THE ARROW!!! it is the single hash mark. Same on the crank pulley!

Go to the engine rebuild tips in the Sticky section of the engine area, I think there are more tips there.
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Post by Splinter »

I really really really cant afford to buy any tools

Im really pushing it just by buying the timing belt.

I've had to sell a bunch of stuff (which admittedly is stuff I was intending to sell at some point anyway) in order to afford just the pump and brakes. Everything else Im doing right now is from parts I already have.
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Post by Splinter »

Uhh...

I dont have to pull the engine to do this right? I was positive I didnt, but the thread you just directed me to is all about what to do while you have the engine out of the car?
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Post by skid542 »

If you bought a new timing belt you can use your old one for your wrench. Take the old one and cut it so that it's a strip and then take one end and securely anchor it to a piece of wood or other appriate handle. I used a 1x1" and just a bunch of screws through the belt into the wood. Now all you have to do is wrap the toothed belt around your cam until it brings the wood up to it and, viola! Doesn't cost anything except an old timing belt and works wonders.

I haven't done waterpumps or cam seals so I'm not much help there.
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Post by BAC5.2 »

The correct way to loosen the crank pulley is to brace a breaker bar next to the battery and kick it over once. Great trick.

The motor stays in the car to do this.
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Post by Splinter »

Can I get aftermarket timing belts and oil gaskets?

The timing belt is gonna be like 85 bucks from the dealer
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Post by skid542 »

Just go to NAPA, Autozone, etc. and get a timing belt, should run you around 40 dollars.
Lee

93' SS, 5mt swapped, 182k, not stock...
96' N/A OBW 5sp, 212k, Couple mods... RIP
99' N/A OBW, 4eat, mostly stock.
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Post by subawhatsubawho »

Pull your electric fans out first. You might want to put something behind tghe radiator unless you are 100% sure you won't hit it.

Worse comes to worse reuse your old timing belt untill you can afford a new one. This way you will get in some bookoo pratice.

Another trick I do is to take white out or a paint marker and mark the timing marks so they are highly visible.

If you can not get the metal nuts out of the timing belt cover, don't worry about it. You can drill a hole in the back cam cover where the nut was and use wire ties to re-install it.
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Post by Splinter »

I got the timing belt

Im doing this at my friends house, so Ive got to bring everything I need with me

So far I know I need to bring:

Timing Belt
Water pump
Metric Toolkit (wrenches, ratchet, universal joint, extensions, sockets, visegrip)
breaker bar
WD-40
Whiteout? (to mark timing belt)

I need to bring absolutely everything I need with me. What else is there?
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Post by skid542 »

You will need a large C-clamp or equivalent to compress the timing belt tensioner.

I also didn't see rags listed, you're going to need a few of those too :).

I haven't done the waterpump but otherwise you should be good for the t-belt.
Lee

93' SS, 5mt swapped, 182k, not stock...
96' N/A OBW 5sp, 212k, Couple mods... RIP
99' N/A OBW, 4eat, mostly stock.
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Post by subawhatsubawho »

You are going to need the waterpump gasket...supergrey (up to you but it helps hold the gasket to the pump for easy install), a gasket scraper or razor blade to remove old gasket on block, coolant, the knowledge to burp the system when done.

You will also need some good mexican food and some Caronas...with our without lime.

It would be wise (and cheap) to replace the oilpump gasket, O-rings, and crankshaft seal, not to mentoin tighten the screws on the back of the oil pump while you have the timing belt off. If you don't want to do the cam seals this is fine. You already have all the tools to do the oil pump stuff just get the seals. Trust me on this....cheap insurance.
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Post by subawhatsubawho »

subawhatsubawho wrote: You will also need a bench vise or 6" C-clamp to compress the timing belt tensioner. Do it slooowly.
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Post by skid542 »

Yeah, but he didn't have that in his list of tools so I thought I'd remind him just in case he didn't ;).
Lee

93' SS, 5mt swapped, 182k, not stock...
96' N/A OBW 5sp, 212k, Couple mods... RIP
99' N/A OBW, 4eat, mostly stock.
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Post by Legacy777 »

subawhatsubawho wrote:You are going to need the waterpump gasket...supergrey (up to you but it helps hold the gasket to the pump for easy install), a gasket scraper or razor blade to remove old gasket on block, coolant, the knowledge to burp the system when done.
There is a metal gasket for the water pump....you shouldn't need to be using ultragray...
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Post by Splinter »

The gasket I got with the rebuilt one looks like its made out of cardbord.
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Post by Legacy777 »

Josh

surrealmirage.com/subaru
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Post by Splinter »

What do I do about the thermostat??

THe new pump doesnt have one in, and I cant seem to get it out of the old one.

Do I need it? What do I do??

Also, the new waterpump only has 2 fittings, the old one had 3!!
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Post by Splinter »

Seriously guys, Ive got like an hour and a bit of sunlight left to get this done.

What am I gonna do about it being the wrong number of hoses??
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