Car wont start

Splinter · Post by **Splinter** » Mon Apr 03, 2006 11:48 pm

Been driving around all day as normal, stopped at Home Depot, car was parked for 15 mins, got back in, started fine, drove it 2 minutes up the hill to Staples, parked, sat for 10 mins, went back out, wont start.

Starter turns over no problem, but the engine doesnt start. Pulled the codes, everythings OK except for a weird code 49 (wrong airflow sensor??)

I dont get whats going on. Its got gas, battery is fine. The only thing worth noting is that as I was coming up the hill, I smelled gas pretty strongly. All the spark plugs are fine.

Ive got an hour before I have to start work, and by the time Im done its gonna be dark with no way for me to get home

HELP

Splinter · Post by **Splinter** » Tue Apr 04, 2006 12:16 am

Just checked all the fuses, theyre fine

How would I go about checking the fuel pump?

The engine seems to catch for a fraction of a second, then die again if you wait a while before starting attempts

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Tue Apr 04, 2006 12:26 am

Connect the green connectors and put the ignition in ON. Then listen under the rear seat to see if the pump is cycling on and off.

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Tue Apr 04, 2006 12:27 am

Also try maybe unclamping the fuel filter from the strut tower and shaking it around. If it's clogged you might be able to make room for enough flow to limp to work and back.

Splinter · Post by **Splinter** » Tue Apr 04, 2006 12:38 am

Im at work now, thats the problem

I have no way of getting home (16+ miles) afterwards.

The fuel pump relay is going (the round green one) but the pump isnt making a noise.

How do I check the pumps electrical connector with a multimeter, there are about 5 pins on it

Splinter · Post by **Splinter** » Tue Apr 04, 2006 12:40 am

If I need to replace the fuel pump

1. Ive got a limited supply of basic tools with me (sockets, screwdrivers, wrenches) along with some vacuum/fuel line. Can I do it in the parking lot with little or no light?
2. Should I get a stock OEM pump or go to the walbro, is the walbro going to be more difficult to install in said conditions?

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Tue Apr 04, 2006 12:47 am

There are two connectors. One under the rear seat and one at the top of the fuel pump assembly under the trunk carpet. Try reseating each of them first. The one under the rear seat in particular often goes bad with age.

At the pump assembly, the ground wire is black and the +12v wire is blue-with-a-yellow-stripe. At the connector under the seat, the ground wire is black and the +12v wire is black-with-a-red-stripe.

You only have to remove two bolts to get the rear seat bottom off.

1) Mmmmaybe. My brother changed one of my car's fuel pumps at dusk in the snow at a random gas station parking lot in the middle of Pennsylvania using a basic $60 tool set that I had left in the trunk. You don't really need special tools (just things like: 8mm socket, pliers, screwdrivers) but the hoses can be a huge pain.

2) The Walbro maybe involve a little more involved -- I don't know from experience -- but probably not enough to make a significant difference.

Splinter · Post by **Splinter** » Tue Apr 04, 2006 12:56 am

The connector under the access panel on the passenger side (the longer, oval one) has two steady voltages and one that pulses with the relay

So I think its safe to say that the connector is fine, and that its a bad pump, yes?

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Tue Apr 04, 2006 1:20 am

Sounds like it, yes.

Wait -- were you checking the voltage with the connector attached? Because a poor-but-not-nonexistent connection will show up as a full 12 volts without load.

Splinter · Post by **Splinter** » Tue Apr 04, 2006 1:22 am

No I was checking the voltage from the plug socket, disconnected from the pump

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Tue Apr 04, 2006 1:24 am

You'll need to check it with it hooked up, either by piercing the insulation (which you'll have to then repair when you're done) or by using a thin wire that can poke through the back of the connector and get past the rubber grommet around the contact.

Splinter · Post by **Splinter** » Tue Apr 04, 2006 1:27 am

I cleaned out the connector with contact cleaner and reconnected it

If its not a bad pump, how else could I go about fixing it?

I have to pick up the replacement pump on my break in an hour if Im going to at all.

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Tue Apr 04, 2006 1:36 am

You would have to replace the bad connection. The absolute easiest thing to do is to cut the wire before and after the connector and use Posi-Locks to rejoin them.

I guess you probably should pick up the replacement pump. If you still have your factory pump you should be replacing it at some point in the near future anyhow.

You can also check the wiring by removing the pump assembly, hooking the wire back up (with the car off -- don't want any sparks!), and then measuring the voltage directly at the pump's terminals.

Splinter · Post by **Splinter** » Tue Apr 04, 2006 1:40 am

Speaking of which, how does one go about pulling out the pump?

Splinter · Post by **Splinter** » Tue Apr 04, 2006 1:41 am

No one around here has the walbro pumps, and the stock replacement pumps are $200

Goddamnit.

dwreck30 · Post by **dwreck30** » Tue Apr 04, 2006 2:01 am

Get the Walbro, its easy. GSS341 w/WRX install kit.

Splinter · Post by **Splinter** » Tue Apr 04, 2006 2:13 am

Splinter wrote:No one around here has the walbro pumps
Goddamnit.

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Tue Apr 04, 2006 2:27 am

Maybe you could buy a non-turbo pump for cheaper, and just use it to limp around until you buy a Walbro?

To remove the pump, you:

1) Remove that access panel that I guess you already removed
2) Undo each of the three hoses (somehow label them so you can put them back)
3) Undo all those nuts holding the assembly in with an 8mm or 5/16" socket.
4) Pull the assembly up and out carefully. The float for the level gauge fits awkwardly so it'll take some maneuvering.

The pump is held in the assembly with a bolt or two and by the hose on its outlet. First undo the pump's electrical connections (they're two ring terminals) and then undo the hose and hardware.

Manarius · Post by **Manarius** » Tue Apr 04, 2006 2:32 am

vrg3 wrote:I guess you probably should pick up the replacement pump. If you still have your factory pump you should be replacing it at some point in the near future anyhow.

You're saying fuel pumps go bad? When? At what mileage? I'm running around @ 148k on my stock pump and seeing no problems.

Splinter · Post by **Splinter** » Tue Apr 04, 2006 2:46 am

I wasnt running into problems, it worked, then it didnt.

Im going to try plugging in the new fuel pump without installing it, to see if it cycles.

If it does, I know that the old pump is defective for sure. If it isnt, Ill return the new one and blow up the car.

vrg3 · Post by **vrg3** » Tue Apr 04, 2006 3:10 am

They do go bad, Manarius. Unfortunately, the failure isn't always progressive. Sometimes you get signs that it's failing, but sometimes you don't. And of course pushing it harder (like by running higher boost) means it fails sooner. After my car forced my brother to perform the repair mentioned above, I say everyone on this board who's still using the stock pump should have a spare pump in the trunk or glove box.

That's a good idea, Splinter. Well, all but the last bit.

Splinter · Post by **Splinter** » Tue Apr 04, 2006 3:11 am

I cant believe the high performance pumps cost half of the factory ones... Its insane.

Im going to order a walbro off ebay right now, and try to return the new pump when I get the walbro

scuzzy · Post by **scuzzy** » Tue Apr 04, 2006 3:26 am

prevenatitive maintenance = cheaper than repair.

I plan on replacing my fuel pump in the near future, just because. then I know I've got a working pump with X miles on it, and a new pump in the car with a warranty on it.

Prevenatitive maintenance people, it's the best thing for our older cars

douglas vincent · Post by **douglas vincent** » Tue Apr 04, 2006 3:27 am

Did you REALLY test the fuel pump? Before I spent $200 and pulled the damn thing, I would at least unhook the fuel line and see if it runs.....

Splinter · Post by **Splinter** » Tue Apr 04, 2006 3:30 am

doug, like I said, Im going to plug the new one into the wiring harness and see if it runs before I drop it into the tank and pull the lines

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Car wont start

Car wont start