Question re:FCD {EDIT: post added- new problem}
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Question re:FCD {EDIT: post added- new problem}
I finally got around to testing the FCD that I built. I used my computer power supply, as mentioned. After going full sweep on the potentiometer, the output voltage is only 1.1 volts. Is this ok?
Last edited by stipro on Wed Mar 08, 2006 5:14 am, edited 1 time in total.
Yes, the output voltage increased with the the input voltage. But the potentiometer was only turned 1/3 of the way before it was maxed out(1 turn pot) . The last 2/3, the voltage on the output did not increase. As for the resistor, I am certain that I used a 47k. I will have to check to be absolutely sure.vrg3 wrote:No. It should get up to around 4 volts.
Did the output track the input up until 1.1 volts?
OK. what gives? I built a new FCD tonight and set out to test it as I did the last one that failed the voltage test, onlt this time it was even worse. Last time I maxed out the voltage at 1.11 volts, this time the voltage maxed out at 0.1volts. The wiring is correct, aswell as the resistors, diode direction, and chip set. This is driving me bonkers. What gives?
If I hook up +12volt power and the 5volt source(4.95 volts from my pc), without a ground, I get 5.76volts on the output, but when I hook up he ground, voltage sits at 0.1volts.
I will try and get some pics up when the thawagallery is up and running again, in the mean time an ideas?
Thankx.
If I hook up +12volt power and the 5volt source(4.95 volts from my pc), without a ground, I get 5.76volts on the output, but when I hook up he ground, voltage sits at 0.1volts.
I will try and get some pics up when the thawagallery is up and running again, in the mean time an ideas?
Thankx.
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vrg3
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Hmm, I'm puzzled.
How exactly are you testing it? Something like this?
Yellow wire from PC power supply to +12v on FCD.
Red wire from PC power supply to +5v on FCD.
Black wire from PC power supply to ground on FCD.
Potentiometer (at least 1K) across red and black wires, with wiper going to input on FCD.
It doesn't make any sense to test this circuit without a ground. The results don't really tell you anything.
How exactly are you testing it? Something like this?
Yellow wire from PC power supply to +12v on FCD.
Red wire from PC power supply to +5v on FCD.
Black wire from PC power supply to ground on FCD.
Potentiometer (at least 1K) across red and black wires, with wiper going to input on FCD.
It doesn't make any sense to test this circuit without a ground. The results don't really tell you anything.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
That is exactly how I am testing it. With the wiper on the pot is turned right down(off position) the voltage at the output reads 0.1. When I turn the pot to max, the voltage does not change. I dont know, could the chip be buggered. Iam not complaining, I just want to get this figured out, and right.vrg3 wrote:How exactly are you testing it? Something like this?
Yellow wire from PC power supply to +12v on FCD.
Red wire from PC power supply to +5v on FCD.
Black wire from PC power supply to ground on FCD.
Potentiometer (at least 1K) across red and black wires, with wiper going to input on FCD.
Thanks for your time Vikash, I really appreciate it.
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vrg3
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Glad to try to help...
This is very weird. That's exactly how I test them too...
It's a remote possibility, I guess, that you found a bad batch of LM224s... Never heard of that happening before though.
You're taking appropriate precautions against electrostatic discharge?
I don't know what to tell you. Bad pot? Have you measured the voltage at the input to the FCD to make sure it's varying from 0 to 5 volts?
This is very weird. That's exactly how I test them too...
It's a remote possibility, I guess, that you found a bad batch of LM224s... Never heard of that happening before though.
You're taking appropriate precautions against electrostatic discharge?
I don't know what to tell you. Bad pot? Have you measured the voltage at the input to the FCD to make sure it's varying from 0 to 5 volts?
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
Yes, it definately does that. The wiper on the pot, and the input voltage, sweeps from 0 to 5 volts. Ok, but here is the weird part, with the pot still hooked up, but turned off I still get 0.11volts at the output. With the pot at max, still 0.11 volts.vrg3 wrote:Have you measured the voltage at the input to the FCD to make sure it's varying from 0 to 5 volts?
There is no change in output voltage relative to any input voltage. Its like there is some wierd connection.
(At least on the first FCD I built, the output voltage went up to 1.1volts before being clamped)
I wish I could get a video for you. As they say a picture is worth a thousand words.
BTW-the pot is a 20k
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vrg3
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Hm.
A picture of the circuit might help me see if you did anything wrong in assembling it... But it does sound like you know what you're doing.
Okay... so let me list a bunch of checks that you can do:
- Voltage at pin 5 varies between 0 and 5 as you turn the pot. (You already did this one)
- Voltage at pin 4 is about 12.
- Continuity from pin 11 to ground.
- Voltage at pin 10 is about 4.
- Voltage at pin 8 is about 4.
- Voltage at pin 7 is about the same as the input.
- Voltage at pin 12 is about the same as the input except it's never higher than about 4.
Try each of those checks and let's see which ones fail.
A picture of the circuit might help me see if you did anything wrong in assembling it... But it does sound like you know what you're doing.
Okay... so let me list a bunch of checks that you can do:
- Voltage at pin 5 varies between 0 and 5 as you turn the pot. (You already did this one)
- Voltage at pin 4 is about 12.
- Continuity from pin 11 to ground.
- Voltage at pin 10 is about 4.
- Voltage at pin 8 is about 4.
- Voltage at pin 7 is about the same as the input.
- Voltage at pin 12 is about the same as the input except it's never higher than about 4.
Try each of those checks and let's see which ones fail.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
Here is what I found.....
So in conjuction to all these tests I would say that this particular LM224 is junk.
What do you think?
checkvrg3 wrote: Voltage at pin 4 is about 12..
check.vrg3 wrote: Continuity from pin 11 to ground..
checkvrg3 wrote:- Voltage at pin 10 is about 4..
Not even close. Its at 0.02voltsvrg3 wrote:- Voltage at pin 8 is about 4..
Voltage here is 0.1voltsvrg3 wrote:- Voltage at pin 7 is about the same as the input..
And voltage here, is 0.1voltsvrg3 wrote:- Voltage at pin 12 is about the same as the input except it's never higher than about 4..
So in conjuction to all these tests I would say that this particular LM224 is junk.
What do you think?
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biggreen96
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I just put a FCD together and would like to test it, I dont have a pot though. Is there any other way? I have a power supply and a voltage meter thing.
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vrg3
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Make a pot. Take a piece of paper and draw a line across it with a pencil. Check the resistance of the line (put the multimeter's probes at the ends of the line); you want it to be somewhere between maybe 1K and 100K, so adjust the length of the line to achieve this.
Then you connect +5v to one end of the line, ground to the other end of the line, and touch the FCD's input wire somewhere in the middle of the line.
Then you connect +5v to one end of the line, ground to the other end of the line, and touch the FCD's input wire somewhere in the middle of the line.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
Does that really work? If so that is super coolvrg3 wrote:Make a pot. Take a piece of paper and draw a line across it with a pencil. Check the resistance of the line (put the multimeter's probes at the ends of the line); you want it to be somewhere between maybe 1K and 100K, so adjust the length of the line to achieve this.
Then you connect +5v to one end of the line, ground to the other end of the line, and touch the FCD's input wire somewhere in the middle of the line.
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free5ty1e
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Gotta love the ghetto style pot.... unless of course you're talking about actual pot, in which case the ghetto stuff isn't so good 
Seriously though that's a cool way to do that... I never though of using a pencil line
Edit -- if you guys don't feel like messing around with your FCDs anymore I'll have some for sale very soon.
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... &start=100
Seriously though that's a cool way to do that... I never though of using a pencil line
Edit -- if you guys don't feel like messing around with your FCDs anymore I'll have some for sale very soon.
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... &start=100
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biggreen96
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ok so I did something incorrectly. I connected the ground to my PC plug, then I connected the +12v and the PC turns itself off. I assume to protect it.
The little yellow thing (1uF on the diagram) does that have to be installed a certain way? I just dropped it in there willy-nilly, same with the 1N4148 thingy.
The little yellow thing (1uF on the diagram) does that have to be installed a certain way? I just dropped it in there willy-nilly, same with the 1N4148 thingy.
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biggreen96
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vrg3
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PC power supplies are pretty good about shutting down if you try to draw too much current, so it does sound like you shorted it out.
The 1uF capacitor may need to go in a particular direction depending on what type it is. On the types where it matters, there's a marking of some type on the capacitor, usually marking the side that goes to ground with a minus sign or something.
Usually getting the cap's polarity wrong just causes it to eventually fail (sometimes spectacularly); I've never heard of it causing a short circuit like this. More likely the capacitor presented just a little too much load for the power supply the first time around -- technically it acts like a short circuit for a tiny fraction of a second. Is your PC power supply a high-quality one from a brand name? If it continues to have problems with this, just remove the cap while you're testing. In any case, your car will have no problem with it.
The 1N4148 diode absolutely has to go in a particular direction -- the stripe on the diode should be on the end connected to pin 8 of the chip.
The circuit will always output something; it's just not predictable or relevant if nothing's connected to the input.
The 1uF capacitor may need to go in a particular direction depending on what type it is. On the types where it matters, there's a marking of some type on the capacitor, usually marking the side that goes to ground with a minus sign or something.
Usually getting the cap's polarity wrong just causes it to eventually fail (sometimes spectacularly); I've never heard of it causing a short circuit like this. More likely the capacitor presented just a little too much load for the power supply the first time around -- technically it acts like a short circuit for a tiny fraction of a second. Is your PC power supply a high-quality one from a brand name? If it continues to have problems with this, just remove the cap while you're testing. In any case, your car will have no problem with it.
The 1N4148 diode absolutely has to go in a particular direction -- the stripe on the diode should be on the end connected to pin 8 of the chip.
The circuit will always output something; it's just not predictable or relevant if nothing's connected to the input.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
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biggreen96
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biggreen96
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