In my search for info about hydraulic vs. cable pedals I didn’t find any pictures. So here is a removal guide with pictures of the hydraulic clutch style pedals.
First you’ll want to remove the plastic under part of the dash (has the coin tray in it) by taking out a few screws. This allows room to see/work.
On the clutch and brake pedals, unplug the electrical connectors for the neutral start switch, cruise control switch, and brake lights. The neutral switch is the upper one on the clutch pedal.
Now in order to gain wiggle room, remove the nut holding the 3 big harness connectors. Here you can see I cracked the plastic while moving around under the dash because I did this step later than I should have.
Swing them down out of the way.
Over above the throttle pedal is the pushrod for the clutch master cylinder. Pull out the snap pin and clevis pin.
Do the same for the brake pedal’s snap and clevis pins to disconnect it from the brake booster pushrod.
The brake and clutch pedals are in an assembly together. One bolt holding it in is above the clutch’s clevis pin location. The bolts have been removed in these pics.
2 more bolts are above the brake light switch.
The 4 remaining nuts holding the clutch and brake assembly are around the brake booster pushrod.
Now to deal with the parts not directly holding the clutch and brake assembly in: The throttle pedal is connected by 2 bolts.
Remove them and it should hang by the cable.
The cable is held to the pedal with a plastic grommet thing. It pops out easy with pliers, then the cable slides out the side.
NOTE: The throttle cable was not connected to the intake manifold on the other end; your tension experience may vary.
There is an assortment of electrical connectors to the right of the steering column, unplug them.
Mmm, 1B
Now to lower the steering column, remove one bolt on it’s left…
...and one bolt on it’s right.
Watch your head! It will come down a ways before resting.
This is with the “LIFT UP” lever activated.
Now there is enough room to wiggle out the clutch and brake assembly carefully.
Here’s the hardware. The nut near the top is from the clutch clevis pin arm, it doesn’t need to be removed. The 2 bolts with the arrow are from the throttle pedal. The clutch pedal clevis pin is not pictured, but it’s just like the brake pedal one.
At this point there are no trans-firewall connections for both the clutch master cylinder and the brake booster, so it’d be convenient to remove them if you need to.
