HELP binding and clicking when turning sharp !new problem!

TDGKORN · Post by **TDGKORN** » Tue Sep 05, 2006 3:49 pm

heres the problem:

when turning sharp it feels like the brakes are being applied and there is a clicking/grinding noise (can't really tell where it's coming from). both front axles are brand new, I checked and regreased the brakes nothing seems out of place.

car info: 92 ss auto w/180+k

Any help would be great.

Thanks
Troy

Post by **Legacy777** » Tue Sep 05, 2006 5:42 pm

Did the joints move freely when you had them out of the car?

TDGKORN · Post by **TDGKORN** » Tue Sep 05, 2006 5:46 pm

yes, there are both brand new with the axles.

could this be torque bind?
never experienced it first hand so not sure exactly what it feels like. (i'm searching right now for more info on it).

Post by **Legacy777** » Tue Sep 05, 2006 5:48 pm

I guess it's possible. You could put a fuse in the FWD fuse holder and see if the problem goes away.

TDGKORN · Post by **TDGKORN** » Tue Sep 05, 2006 5:50 pm

i tried this and the rear wheels are still moving. (dawn near jumped off the jacks)

Post by **Legacy777** » Tue Sep 05, 2006 5:53 pm

hmm.....that's weird. Only thing I can think of is that the wiring or duty c solenoid is toast.

TDGKORN · Post by **TDGKORN** » Tue Sep 05, 2006 6:45 pm

forgot to mention that the car moves forward after it is shut off.

Post by **Legacy777** » Wed Sep 06, 2006 12:17 am

Yeah....something is definitely binding. I wouldn't recommend driving it until you can fix it.

Did everything work fine before you put in the axles?

entirelyturbo · Post by **entirelyturbo** » Wed Sep 06, 2006 12:56 am

Don't rule out the axles just because they're brand-new.

I believe my brand-new NAPA axles are causing a shudder when I accelerate in 1st, because the car did no such thing before I put them in.

I'm only leaving it as it is for now, because I have absolutely no free time to do anything about it.

TDGKORN · Post by **TDGKORN** » Wed Sep 06, 2006 3:19 am

it started after the car had sat for about a month (broke my ankle) and before i changed the axles.

i'm getting a tcu code for duty c soleniod.

also there is a new loud speed sensetive buzzing now but i believe it has something to do with the fact i broke the speedo cable today.

TDGKORN · Post by **TDGKORN** » Wed Sep 06, 2006 2:47 pm

does anyone have a scanned copy of the fsm for the trans they can share?

TDGKORN · Post by **TDGKORN** » Wed Sep 06, 2006 9:25 pm

just found the pages on the fsm for changing the duty c solenoid.

I put them on rapidshare:
http://rapidshare.de/files/32194775/Dut ... _Valve.pdf

feel free to copy this to another server as this link will only be good for a period of time.

TDGKORN · Post by **TDGKORN** » Sat Sep 09, 2006 9:30 pm

so I picked up a new duty solenoid c, yesterday and today I pulled the tail housing off and much to my suprise this gear or whatever it is had sheered almost all the way off.(stole this pic from All_talk)

do anyone now how to fix it or have that part of the manual they could share? I also need the part number for this gear or the actual name of it so I can find it.

Thanks
Troy

TDGKORN · Post by **TDGKORN** » Mon Sep 11, 2006 2:49 pm

ANYBODY?

chayesfss · Post by **chayesfss** » Mon Sep 11, 2006 5:12 pm

What part sheered off? Since that's the transmission, if you don't want ot dig into it I'd suggest just getting another one from a bone yard. How does the clutch pack look & what was the ohm reading on the Duty C?

TDGKORN · Post by **TDGKORN** » Mon Sep 11, 2006 5:24 pm

it sheered at the shaft (I will try to get a pic up today that shows it) leaving a small ring of metal and three teeth like pieces.

when I checked the solenoid at the harness there was no reading, but when I got the solenoid out it was reading different from the new one (can't rememer off hand, will check at lunch).

as far as the clutch packs go, I havn't taken them out of the hub (not sure how to, and don't want to break anything else).

the problem I see with getting a used tranny is I can't be sure that it is any better then my current one.

TDGKORN · Post by **TDGKORN** » Mon Sep 11, 2006 6:45 pm

just checked the ohm's on both solenoids.

new 11.5 ohm
old 12.4 ohm

here are the pics of the gear/hub that broke.

any thoughts on replacing it?

chayesfss · Post by **chayesfss** » Mon Sep 11, 2006 7:13 pm

Ouch, get a junkyard that's been rear ended or something!

Bheinen74 · Post by **Bheinen74** » Mon Sep 11, 2006 10:12 pm

if that rear sprocket has come off, then it is easier, and cheaper to get a different tranny. To replace just that sprocket, have to replace the WHOLE assembly, and to do that you have to tear down the WHOLE tranny, piece by piece. sorry. looks like someone tried to "pry" off that sprocket, when it isnt designed to be removed from shaft.

TDGKORN · Post by **TDGKORN** » Mon Sep 18, 2006 4:58 pm

Update:

I bought a turbo trans from legacymax (thanks, he even drove it 100miles to me).

Pulled to broken one out and noticed the diff. drain plugs were in a slightly different location, so on closer inspection the numbers on the top of the bellhousing were different (getting a little worried at this point). So I do a quick search of the two numbers and come to find out the tranny that broke came from a 92 nonturbo car, but the one I got from max was from a 93 turbo. Maybe thats why mine broke.

while the tranny was out I decided to replace some leaking power steering line, connecting the last line I stripped the hardline flair nut.
A quick call to a local guy who has lots of 90-94 legacys. I got the whole steering rack(mine is leaking), lines and pump(miine also leaking) from a 92 na legacy with only 56k on the clock for a $100 bucks, this stuff looks brand new.

hopfully I can get car on the road tonight.

should feel like a new car.

TDGKORN · Post by **TDGKORN** » Wed Sep 20, 2006 3:17 pm

So I send all day putting everything back on the car, fill with fluids, and start it. But no, it doesn't start

I checked all the electrical connections and the starter is getting 12v but won't activate (starter was working fine when removed).

so I start thinking its the inhibitor switch on the side of the tranny.

disconnect the cable and manually go through the gears on the tranny via the 19mm bolt that is tied to the inhibitor switch.

It going thru all the gears except park, it will not go in park at all.

Am I missing something?

My brain hurts messing with this car lately.

HELP

Troy

Bheinen74 · Post by **Bheinen74** » Thu Sep 21, 2006 8:25 pm

hi. I had a very similar issue with my TW shortly after the second transmission install. I drove the car to the store, and went out, and it wouldnt do anything. couldnt even move the shifter into neutral for when the tow truck came. ended up being a loose transmission connector. It was one of the 2 rectangular plugs for the transmission. Just disconnected, reattached firmly...fixed.
I would check those two electrical connectors, maybe spray some contact cleaner in there too.

b

TDGKORN · Post by **TDGKORN** » Thu Sep 21, 2006 9:01 pm

Thanks for the response.

I finally got it to start yesterday.
I switched out the inhibitor switch and played with the shifter in the car while turning the key and it fired right up and haven't had a problem starting since.

It seems to be dragging a little like the brakes are on slighty.
Is that normal after a trans. has sat for a long time and fluids are still being moved around completly?

Troy

Blackbart · Post by **Blackbart** » Thu Sep 21, 2006 11:57 pm

Check the sticker on your rear diff, hope it is a 3.90.
Being that the tranny you pulled out was an n/a tranny, it could have been either a 4.11 or a 3.90. They may have put in a 4.11 tranny and 4.11 rear. I bought a turbo car and the previous owner told me he put in another turbo tranny when he actually replaced both the tranny and rear with a 4.11 n/a and removed the sticker. I had to open up the rear to find the ratio.

TDGKORN · Post by **TDGKORN** » Fri Sep 22, 2006 12:03 am

the rear end say 3.9 on it so I assume thats whats inside.

It may be a case of fluid level. Checked it at lunch and it was low. I'll keep checking and adjusting the fluid and see if that helps.

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HELP binding and clicking when turning sharp !new problem!

HELP binding and clicking when turning sharp !new problem!