Alright, I've been working on my winter beater. I purchased it with hesitation and acceleration issues and the hopes to fix them. I already have one flawless working subaru as my base for all my tests. I ran the Scantool between the two cars and got some different readings. I was hoping you guys could give me some ideas.
The Cars:
Good car- 90 Legacy L 5 speed FWD
Bad car- 91 LS 4EAT AWD
The results with the key turned on but engine off.
Good car:
Timing - 0 degrees BTDC
Airflow sig.- 0.0V
IAC valve duty- 100%
Bad car:
Timing - 30 degrees BTDC
Airflow sig. - .24v
IAC valve duty- 54.9%
Those were the only results that were any different. So what do you guys make of the results? I tried swapping the MAF sensor from the good car to the bad car, but that didn't change anything. Does it matter that the bad car has a plastic JECS and the good car has the aluminum Hitachi one? Right now, from those results I'm leaning towards timing. Again, any thoughts?
Scantool Results between good legacy and bad one, thoughts?
Moderators: Helpinators, Moderators
Scantool Results between good legacy and bad one, thoughts?
SUBARUEHS Racing
The engine has to be running for the numbers to mean anything.
No you can not swap the MAF sensors.
Will the cars run? How does everything compare when they are running?
No you can not swap the MAF sensors.
Will the cars run? How does everything compare when they are running?
Josh
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
Yes, both cars run. Here are scantool results from the "bad" car:
Warmed Up Idle readings-
voltage 12.80v
idle 675-700rpm
temp fans kick on @ 203 degrees, off at 190.4
timing low at 18, high at 23, usually sits around 20 degrees BTDC
Airflow 1.2 something volts, it fluctuates within the 1.2 range
load 31-34
TPS 4.82v
Injector pulse width 2.5 to 2.8 ms
IAC 36%
O2 .16 to .80v
fuel trim from -1.56% to .78%
Timing correction is 0
holding the pedal at 1600rpm
sys. voltage 12.96
timing 38-39 degrees
airflow 1.64v constantly
TPS 4.64v
Injector 2.304ms constantly
IAC 39.2%
fuel trim -2.34 to .78%
timing correction still 0
Tests from the working good car (which I drive every day) seemed about the same, so I don't know what to think. I took a video of the hesitation, I'll try and upload it when I get to school, so you can see what I'm talking about.
One thing I did notice driving back and forth in my driveway was that the Power light would sometimes come on (I checked for current and previous codes, but there were none). I could get the light to kick on if I floored it, like it were switching into power mode, but I also noticed it would do the same thing at partial throttle. This would lead me to believe that the car thinks I'm dumping it, when in reality I'm not, but using the scan tool I can see the TPS voltage changes fine. 4.82v when off the throttle completely, and 1.00v when it's to the floor.
Only codes the car had was for the knock sensor, so I replaced that, and it went away. Still hesitating the same though.
Warmed Up Idle readings-
voltage 12.80v
idle 675-700rpm
temp fans kick on @ 203 degrees, off at 190.4
timing low at 18, high at 23, usually sits around 20 degrees BTDC
Airflow 1.2 something volts, it fluctuates within the 1.2 range
load 31-34
TPS 4.82v
Injector pulse width 2.5 to 2.8 ms
IAC 36%
O2 .16 to .80v
fuel trim from -1.56% to .78%
Timing correction is 0
holding the pedal at 1600rpm
sys. voltage 12.96
timing 38-39 degrees
airflow 1.64v constantly
TPS 4.64v
Injector 2.304ms constantly
IAC 39.2%
fuel trim -2.34 to .78%
timing correction still 0
Tests from the working good car (which I drive every day) seemed about the same, so I don't know what to think. I took a video of the hesitation, I'll try and upload it when I get to school, so you can see what I'm talking about.
One thing I did notice driving back and forth in my driveway was that the Power light would sometimes come on (I checked for current and previous codes, but there were none). I could get the light to kick on if I floored it, like it were switching into power mode, but I also noticed it would do the same thing at partial throttle. This would lead me to believe that the car thinks I'm dumping it, when in reality I'm not, but using the scan tool I can see the TPS voltage changes fine. 4.82v when off the throttle completely, and 1.00v when it's to the floor.
Only codes the car had was for the knock sensor, so I replaced that, and it went away. Still hesitating the same though.
SUBARUEHS Racing
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bmxkelowna
- Fourth Gear
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Well that debunks my theory. I wish I could get some more codes. Just nothing comes up when it sits at idle warmed up. It's just about impossible to drive around, it struggles in my driveway.bmxkelowna wrote:when i had my 4EAT in even if i taped the gas quickly, even only to 1/4 thotle the power light would come on
SUBARUEHS Racing