Just refaced valves and cut seats on an ej20g. and got it all back in and running.
I noticed the motor was shakey and made a chuffing noise before and after this so I removed the exhaust manifold, started it up and got underneath for a looksee at the valves in action. Firstly..... VERY loud and I noticed that cylinders 1,2 and 4 have the slightest hint of blue flame visible in the dark around the valve seat at idle. Now take into cosideration the valves are still settling into their newly cut seats so no worries there.
Number 3 cylinder has a large blue flame blowing out which combined with the strong pulse/shake from the motor leads me to believe no 3 injector is delivering too much gas and/or not closing properly.It smells quite petrolly as well. Now it had these symptoms before I did any work on it but seems more noticeable now with increased fuel consumption. Power and compression are slightly up as the valves were not sealing well before the work.
I want to swap the injector into another cyl and see if the flame goes with it but the damn things are baked into the fuel rail and will break if I try to remove them.
So does anyone know a good method of safely removing a stubborn injector?
Awaiting wisdom
Last edited by gt tankie on Wed Oct 18, 2006 7:28 am, edited 1 time in total.
Uh ok had a real close look at things and a bit of a think and came up with this.
The rearmost exhaust valve isn't quite sealing fully sometimes as is evident by the wetness around the seat which smells of raw fuel.
Why it isn't sealing is a mystery. All valves were refaced and lapped in by me and parrafin poured into the assembled inverted heads and left overnight to see if any would creep past the valves. Now parrafin will find the smallest gap in valve to seat contact area. All valves passed a tiny amount by the morning which was expected as they wont be perfect untill a few thousand ks has passed. So I feel pretty confident that all is well there.
I did have the noisy HLAs but these were cleaned and all galleries in the head were cleaned and flushed in the parts washer and with compressed air which did remove some muck that was in there and no noises since.
Could the offending valve be held slightly open by a HLA. These are supposed to adjust to the ideal clearance arent they?
The valve faces and seats had minimal material removed and I didnt resurface the ends of the valve stems to adjust their lengths after the valve job because the HLAs should adjust to the slightly longer stem protrusion from the slighty resessed valves (talking a few thou here).
So I'm at a bit of a loss too why it won't shut fully short of a bent valve (which checked out fine btw).
Thinking of leaving it and thrashing for a few 1000 ks to see if it will wear/burn into its seat.
Don't want to pull the head again-new gaskets/head bolts etc$$
I can't really comment on the flame color or what you're seeing.
However I did have the valves redone on my ej22t heads with HLA's, and have not had any problems. Did you bleed the HLA's before you put them in the rocker assembly and onto the head?
If not, here's a nifty way. Use a 10mm socket, put the lifter in the socket, and fill the socket with oil. Then use a paper clip to hold open the check ball. Move the lifter up and down until the bubbles stop.
I'd personally just drive it a little while, and see how things go.
If you did want to remove an injector, spray some penetrating oil around the o-ring, leave it sit, and then twist the injector in the rail. That'll help unseat it before you try and pull it out.
Josh,
The problem with that is that on an Ej20G you've got to pull the cams to get to the HLA's. On an Ej22T, you can do the HLA thing without even removing the timing belt...
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Threw the ex manifold back on along with a new knock sensor and took it for a thrash............
Goes like it did when I got it in 99-smooth, quiet with lots of balls and no shake in the motor any more. Did the earth mod as well and there is an improvement in smoothness and general drivability. Nice even throb from the exhaust too. How doo I know? - because before I did all this work it was a PIG!
Now I have to sort out my leaking coolant tank.
Matt Monson wrote:Josh,
The problem with that is that on an Ej20G you've got to pull the cams to get to the HLA's. On an Ej22T, you can do the HLA thing without even removing the timing belt...
and I noticed that cylinders 1,2 and 4 have the slightest hint of blue flame visible in the dark around the valve seat at idle. Now take into cosideration the valves are still settling into their newly cut seats so no worries there.
