pulled codes...now what
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pulled codes...now what
i pulled codes
11- crank pos. sensor
13-cam pos sensor
21-water temp sensor
24-iac
45-presure sensor,exchange solenoid
the car wont start when its warm or hot, only when cold, idles like complete ass, and is getting less than ok gas milage
subaru wants more than the car is worth for the replacements!!!! what the hell?!?!?!
any tech on how to fix these??
cheaper replacements??
can anyone even tell me the location of the above mentioned parts?
thanks in advance
and the car is a 94 turbo 5spd
11- crank pos. sensor
13-cam pos sensor
21-water temp sensor
24-iac
45-presure sensor,exchange solenoid
the car wont start when its warm or hot, only when cold, idles like complete ass, and is getting less than ok gas milage
subaru wants more than the car is worth for the replacements!!!! what the hell?!?!?!
any tech on how to fix these??
cheaper replacements??
can anyone even tell me the location of the above mentioned parts?
thanks in advance
and the car is a 94 turbo 5spd
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this didnt happen over night did it?
crank position sensor is right on top right under the alternator
cam position sensor is on the top of the drivers side head, right behind the oil filler
the water temp sensor is a real bitch and from what i noticed goes out often or is easily broken, there is a water crossover water pipe under the intake manifold. the sensor is on the top back of that
idle air control valve, can be a couple different places depending on whether your intake manifold is is jdm or usdm. if its a usdm it would be on on the passenger side of the throttle body, if its jdm i think and i use that term lightly "think" they are all on the drivers side
the pressure exchange solenoid is under the intake manifold on the passenger side. if its the one i am thinkn about then its blue and super hard to get too. and its just above the fuel rail
can anyone back me up here?
crank position sensor is right on top right under the alternator
cam position sensor is on the top of the drivers side head, right behind the oil filler
the water temp sensor is a real bitch and from what i noticed goes out often or is easily broken, there is a water crossover water pipe under the intake manifold. the sensor is on the top back of that
idle air control valve, can be a couple different places depending on whether your intake manifold is is jdm or usdm. if its a usdm it would be on on the passenger side of the throttle body, if its jdm i think and i use that term lightly "think" they are all on the drivers side
the pressure exchange solenoid is under the intake manifold on the passenger side. if its the one i am thinkn about then its blue and super hard to get too. and its just above the fuel rail
can anyone back me up here?
-93 2.2T (RIP), 93 N/A best car on earth.
-00 legGT, 18" PIAA sport mesh wheels, front/rear Rallitek sways, lowered whitelines, coming soon: 2.5L sti internals, 20g heads P&P, twin charged. motor is almost ready to go in.
Andrew
-00 legGT, 18" PIAA sport mesh wheels, front/rear Rallitek sways, lowered whitelines, coming soon: 2.5L sti internals, 20g heads P&P, twin charged. motor is almost ready to go in.
Andrew
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oh and also you can try pulling out you crank and cam sensors and just try cleaning them. because the car will not run at all if they are not giving a signal to the ecu, but if they have a bunch of metal shavings or other debris then it can screw up the signal and cause shitty idling, and hesitation etc....also try to clean the crank sensor and cam sensor points on the cam gear and the crank gear
-93 2.2T (RIP), 93 N/A best car on earth.
-00 legGT, 18" PIAA sport mesh wheels, front/rear Rallitek sways, lowered whitelines, coming soon: 2.5L sti internals, 20g heads P&P, twin charged. motor is almost ready to go in.
Andrew
-00 legGT, 18" PIAA sport mesh wheels, front/rear Rallitek sways, lowered whitelines, coming soon: 2.5L sti internals, 20g heads P&P, twin charged. motor is almost ready to go in.
Andrew
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If it turns over and runs like crap or not at all when it's warm, I'd start with the coolant temp sensor. It's an easy replacement, just get a deep socket and it'll go right over top of the connector. Also, I'd suggest putting the car at a down hill angle to minimize coolant leakage.thehookeup wrote:the water temp sensor is a real bitch and from what i noticed goes out often or is easily broken, there is a water crossover water pipe under the intake manifold. the sensor is on the top back of that
1995 Polo Green Subaru SVX (189k miles - 08/2007-Present)Manarius wrote:The Neo-Cons would call me a defeatist. I'd call me a realist. I'm realistically saying that a snowball has better chances in the blazes of hell than democracy has in Iraq.
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i pulled out the crank and cam sensors and they where pretty gooped up, i cleaned em up and thier associated holes and reinstalled, car starts like 10% BETTER...still sucks ass when warm
but it pulls alot harder and seems far more powerful for some reason...wonder if the two correlate??
i need a cheaper source for parts though...even the local parts store has off brand ones for 250.00 and 175.00...gay
but it pulls alot harder and seems far more powerful for some reason...wonder if the two correlate??
i need a cheaper source for parts though...even the local parts store has off brand ones for 250.00 and 175.00...gay
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did you try this too?thehookeup wrote:also try to clean the crank sensor and cam sensor points on the cam gear and the crank gear
also just go ahead and replace the Coolant temp sensor
-93 2.2T (RIP), 93 N/A best car on earth.
-00 legGT, 18" PIAA sport mesh wheels, front/rear Rallitek sways, lowered whitelines, coming soon: 2.5L sti internals, 20g heads P&P, twin charged. motor is almost ready to go in.
Andrew
-00 legGT, 18" PIAA sport mesh wheels, front/rear Rallitek sways, lowered whitelines, coming soon: 2.5L sti internals, 20g heads P&P, twin charged. motor is almost ready to go in.
Andrew
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The coolant temp sensor will wreak the most havoc on how your car runs, so go to the dealer, pay the $35 for a new one, and replace it.
It really isn't as hard as they make it out to be, just get a good deep socket, an extension and a U-joint socket, and you are set.
It really isn't as hard as they make it out to be, just get a good deep socket, an extension and a U-joint socket, and you are set.
Nick
1987 Audi 4000CS quattro...soon to be 20VT
1994 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 CTD, #11 plate, 30 psi, Scotty II intake, 4" exhaust
1987 Audi 4000CS quattro...soon to be 20VT
1994 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 CTD, #11 plate, 30 psi, Scotty II intake, 4" exhaust
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well i replaced the coolant temp sensor and now the check engine light is either continually on or flashing
the car still will not start when warn...and now when i try to drive it it backfires and dies
also now it wont idle at all
the sensor was a factory subaru part
everything is plugged in
i reset the computer i think...pulled neg cable for a few mins
what the hell????
the car still will not start when warn...and now when i try to drive it it backfires and dies
also now it wont idle at all
the sensor was a factory subaru part
everything is plugged in
i reset the computer i think...pulled neg cable for a few mins
what the hell????
what code is stored in the ECU?
Josh
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
pull the negative cable and hold the brake for a couple of seconds and try again.
replace the spark plugs if you haven't. its cheap and never hurts. if the car has been running bad, it can foul them up pretty bad. and you might want to try swapping spark plug wires with a different car if you don't want to buy new ones.
replace the spark plugs if you haven't. its cheap and never hurts. if the car has been running bad, it can foul them up pretty bad. and you might want to try swapping spark plug wires with a different car if you don't want to buy new ones.
1993 WMP BC6 5MT EJ22T 9psi 3.9:1 213k 205/55R16
62.6 m/s @ 0.66 bar. Gotta love boost. :)
62.6 m/s @ 0.66 bar. Gotta love boost. :)
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That won't reset the computer. On a cold engine, pull negative terminal off battery and let sit for at least half hour off,or overnight. Press brake pedal down, hold for 10 seconds right after you disconnect battery.crawlerdan wrote: i reset the computer i think...pulled neg cable for a few mins
what the hell????
Connect battery next morning.
Turn off ALL electrical components, lights, wipers radio.
start car, but DO NOT touch throttle at all. leave accessorys off.
let idle for 10 minutes. turn off car.
start car, drive, see if there is a check engine light code.
91 Legacy Sport Sedan 4eat
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85 BRAT Gl 140
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91crx si 165k
91 Civic RT4WD manual trans 168k
91crx Si 40.5k
85 BRAT Gl 140
97 SVX 74k
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just curious, have you checked your fuel pump? next time you try a warm start up and it doesnt start. go to the trunk, pull up the passengerside oval corver over the fuel pump. and knock it a few times with a hammer or mallet er something. and then try starting it again. or just have someone contiuously tap it while you start it
-93 2.2T (RIP), 93 N/A best car on earth.
-00 legGT, 18" PIAA sport mesh wheels, front/rear Rallitek sways, lowered whitelines, coming soon: 2.5L sti internals, 20g heads P&P, twin charged. motor is almost ready to go in.
Andrew
-00 legGT, 18" PIAA sport mesh wheels, front/rear Rallitek sways, lowered whitelines, coming soon: 2.5L sti internals, 20g heads P&P, twin charged. motor is almost ready to go in.
Andrew
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