Engine Oil Recommendations and General Oil Discussion

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Soul Shinobi
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Engine Oil Recommendations and General Oil Discussion

Post by Soul Shinobi »

Well it's about time for me to do my first oil change on my relatively newly acquired 1992 Legacy L AWD. Right now it has over 253,000 miles (407,000+ km) and I'd ideally like to take it to 300,000 miles (482,000+ km) to make us all proud some day. This the first car I've owned but I've learned a lot already, and now it's time for the oil changing ritual.

I've already decided on a schedule, and that is changing oil in November, February and May. I've decided this under the recommendation of Chris Longhurst on his site www.carbibles.com.
Chris Longhurst wrote:Taking all these into consideration, my philosophy would be to totally ignore the distance and change the oil three times a year - about November, February and May. Move these dates a bit according to the severity of the winter. An average family car will do around 14,000 miles per year and about 2/3 of that will fall in the May - November period. At the end of that period, the car will have just about touched on the recommended oil change distance - but all done at reasonable temperatures and including long distance runs during vacations and good weather. During the Nov - Feb. period it may accumulate only 2 or 3 thousand miles, all low temperature starts and mostly short runs. The Feb. to May period is likely to be about the same.

About 10 or 15 years ago, an article in the ANWB journal (ANWB is the Dutch equivalent of the AA - or the AAA in the American case) reached more or less the same conclusion that distance was not very important. In their case they applied this to their road service fleet, which typically once started in the morning never got cold. In effect, they hardly ever changed the oil! I seem to remember 30,000 miles between oil changes being quoted. I also seem to remember that they had some kind of water or acid indicator attached to the end of the dipstick and went by that rather than distance.
I think changing three times a years is also appropriate for how much money I'm willing to put into this car. Now as for specifically what kind of oil I want to use, I'm really not sure at all. Potential low temperature is -10°F (-23°C) but that's just technical; realistically the coldest that it may be that will actually be driven in more than once would probably be around the teens (13-19) in Fahrenheit (-11 to -7°C). The car is N/A and I only drive it hard every once in a while.

What ever oil you guys might recommend for this potentially cold period I will use it for both the Nov. to Feb. and Feb. to May, but I also would like a recommendation for a summer oil as well (for May to Nov.). I live in southern New Hampshire, USA, it doesn't get terribly hot here, rarely more than mid 90's F (34-36°C) at its worst, and lows would be around 40°F (4°C).

I'm looking for a modest oil, but surely not dirt cheap. I do very much want to take good car of my car, but I simply don't have too much money to throw around. I don't know what a little or a lot to spend on oil is, I would think $30 is more than average for 5 quarts (4.8 needed) but still within what I'm willing to pay.

Moving on the the other item that is applied during an oil change--the oil filter. Quite simply, I was going to go with Bosch (about $5) unless you wish to recommend something better (up to about $10 perhaps?); I'm hardly in the know. Also, I have every intention the reapply the magnets that are on my current oil filter to my next one of course. If you haven't heard of doing this, it's done to help trap metal particles in the filter. In fact, on the Engine Oil Bible page of www.carbibles.com there is a section on taking computer hard drives apart to extract the extremely strong neodymium magnets that they contain, and I myself was the one who submitted the information and picture for that section to the site's owner.


Okay, for easy understanding of my wordy writing style, let's lay out the key points:
  • -Based on a recommendation from a gear-head's site along with sound evidence, the changing of oil in the periods between November, February and May is chosen.
    -My N/A Legacy has over 253,000 miles (407,000+ km), I drive it rough every once in a while but overall want to take care of it.
    -I need recommendations on an oil grade and brand for the two colder periods mentioned above.
    -I need recommendations on an oil grade and brand for the warmer period mentioned above.
    -I don't have a lot of money to spend but I surely will not go for the cheapest oil. My car is important enough to me for me to spend more than the average person, but I can't really go for the real high end. Maybe as much as $30?
    -I intend to use a Bosch ($5) oil filter unless otherwise recommended (up to $10 perhaps).
EDIT: Also, a crush washer is another thing that needs to be applied during an oil change. I do have some, Subaru ones no less. I'm told that the flat side of the crush washer faces the drain plug and the rounded side faces the oil pan.
Last edited by Soul Shinobi on Tue Nov 14, 2006 6:10 am, edited 1 time in total.
-Nick
1992 BC Legacy L Sedan AWD 5MT 272,000 - Wish you the best
1998 BK Legacy L Wagon 5MT 234,000 miles - RIP
2002 SF Forester S Wagon 5MT 215,000 miles - Current winter sleigh
1986 FC Mazda RX-7 GXL Coupe 5MT 155,000 miles - Summer cruiser
quicklook
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Post by quicklook »

your car has made it 235,000 miles probably using the oil recommended in the owners manual.

that is what you should continue doing.

use a subaru filter or wix or napa gold.

i hope i was not too wordy for you.
Soul Shinobi
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Post by Soul Shinobi »

Hardly wordy enough. :|

Good comment on the manufacturer recommendations though, and you're probably right. I know the previous owner was definitely a by-the-book kind of guy.

Okay, after looking it up Subaru recommends 5W-30 for below freezing temperatures and 10W-30/10W-40 for a wide range that includes all temperatures I've stated in my first post. Also they recommend the API classifications of SF and SG which are obsolete (SM is the newest). There is no mention of mineral vs. semisynthetic vs. full synthetic. No where near as much information as I'd like.
-Nick
1992 BC Legacy L Sedan AWD 5MT 272,000 - Wish you the best
1998 BK Legacy L Wagon 5MT 234,000 miles - RIP
2002 SF Forester S Wagon 5MT 215,000 miles - Current winter sleigh
1986 FC Mazda RX-7 GXL Coupe 5MT 155,000 miles - Summer cruiser
douglas vincent
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Post by douglas vincent »

Personally, I use the cheapest, worst oil possible.

Right now....

Cause the motor this one is talking about loses a quart a week easy..... :)
Reddevil, Awaiting new heart, will it ever happen?
1990 wagon, EJ25 12.3 @ 116.5 FAST Family wagon getting new motor soon
1992 wagon, wifes daily, high compression
1992 Touring wagon, should I keep it?
quicklook
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Post by quicklook »

you are way over thinking this.

get a good quality dino 10w-30 or 5w-30 for the winter and you are good to go.
Soul Shinobi
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Post by Soul Shinobi »

Yeah... Yeah, that's what I tend to do.
-Nick
1992 BC Legacy L Sedan AWD 5MT 272,000 - Wish you the best
1998 BK Legacy L Wagon 5MT 234,000 miles - RIP
2002 SF Forester S Wagon 5MT 215,000 miles - Current winter sleigh
1986 FC Mazda RX-7 GXL Coupe 5MT 155,000 miles - Summer cruiser
realfinn
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Post by realfinn »

When I was taking engineering classes one of the classes was based on engine theory. One of the cooler labs was testing different oils based on brand and oil weight (all non-synthetic). The most interesting thing that we noticed was that good old cheap oil from the dollar store worked just as well as some higher up oils (mobil one, castrol, QS). There was one exception in the test, Valvoline seemed to break down unusually quickly. Still worked well but seemed strange. We tested a few different weights of each brand. 10W-30, 5W-30....

So for my daily driver I do what doug does....good old cheap stuff. As far as the filter goes...the only one I have personally had trouble with is FRAM, and the problem only happened once (parts of the filter itself actually broke up and went up into the oil passages). That being said my daily drive uses FRAM and the cheap tec filters from WALMART. Over 200,000 miles on it and she runs like a top!

In your case I would have to agree that doing what has been done to your engine in the past is the best thing...same oil brand and weight.
realfinn
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Post by realfinn »

Just saw your remark on synthetic vs semi vs mineral...
In my OPINION you don't want to go to a synthetic or semi synthetic unless you have 1) been using it right along or 2)reseal the engine
Soul Shinobi
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Post by Soul Shinobi »

I've heard the Subaru OEM filters recommended a few times before, are they actually made to a higher standard or something? Just curious.
-Nick
1992 BC Legacy L Sedan AWD 5MT 272,000 - Wish you the best
1998 BK Legacy L Wagon 5MT 234,000 miles - RIP
2002 SF Forester S Wagon 5MT 215,000 miles - Current winter sleigh
1986 FC Mazda RX-7 GXL Coupe 5MT 155,000 miles - Summer cruiser
Legacy777
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Post by Legacy777 »

There's a site where someone cut open a whole bunch of filters. Subaru filters were purolator filters.....that's what I buy....purolator filters.
Josh

surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT

If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
Soul Shinobi
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Post by Soul Shinobi »

Interesting--but what does this mean?
-Nick
1992 BC Legacy L Sedan AWD 5MT 272,000 - Wish you the best
1998 BK Legacy L Wagon 5MT 234,000 miles - RIP
2002 SF Forester S Wagon 5MT 215,000 miles - Current winter sleigh
1986 FC Mazda RX-7 GXL Coupe 5MT 155,000 miles - Summer cruiser
Legacy777
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Post by Legacy777 »

Soul Shinobi wrote:Interesting--but what does this mean?
What does what mean?
Josh

surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT

If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
Soul Shinobi
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Post by Soul Shinobi »

How does a purolator filter work and how does this compare to other types of filters, whatever they may be?
-Nick
1992 BC Legacy L Sedan AWD 5MT 272,000 - Wish you the best
1998 BK Legacy L Wagon 5MT 234,000 miles - RIP
2002 SF Forester S Wagon 5MT 215,000 miles - Current winter sleigh
1986 FC Mazda RX-7 GXL Coupe 5MT 155,000 miles - Summer cruiser
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Post by Legacy777 »

Josh

surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT

If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
quicklook
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Post by quicklook »

again, you are thinking too much about this.

knowledgeable people have given you some choices, so choose one.

it is a 15 year old car with 253,000 miles on it in snow country.

oil and filters are the least of your worries.
jamal
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Post by jamal »

Yes, purolators are good filters. I use them along with mobil semi-synthetic 10w-30. The 7500 mile stuff which I think is close to 50-50. Pretty much the only thing my car doesn't leak is oil.
subytech
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Post by subytech »

We have 2 senior techs at my work with BC-BF legacys and both use the 15-40 that is delivered to the dealership by a local petrolium company because of their cars milage and because its thicker than the 5-30 the new subies use, they also use the subaru filters but thats because there cheap for us. both of these cars have passed 200k miles and neither has any problems at all and both are beaten hard on a reguler bases :D . I figure I'll use it because 50 some odd years of combined subaru experience can't be wrong. A note on synthetic, i wouldn't use it, on cars as old as yours the thinner properties of synthetic oil may cause oil leaks or worsen any that you might have now, we see this all the time with people that figure if its that expencive it has to be good, then wonder why their car leaks, chainge back to reguler and voala! no more leaks.
92 Legacy Turbo, 5sp MT, Early Large CC 20G heads, Ported custom clocked td04, Cobb catted DP, Injen SS 3" exhaust, Turbosmart MBC @ 10psi, Apexi 20g intake, custom FMIC, Fidanza 11lb flywheel, stock 05 WRX clutch
Soul Shinobi
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Post by Soul Shinobi »

All right! My first DIY oil change and it went well... And also took forever, but that's my fault. I was very very pleased to find Purolator Pure One filters at the local PepBoys and I grabbed 5 bottles of Castrol GTX 10W-30 at VIP Autocenter because it cost less there. While changing the oil I was anal and perfectionistic as usual and did well to make sure everything was clean and such.

Now the car runs a bit smoother, and starts right away and very smoothly. I'm sure that low oil and trying to start on a decline was the reason I was having starting trouble yesterday.

EDIT: I was temped to go for the Castrol GTX High Mileage formula because I lost a bit of oil (down below the low mark) but it cost a lot more and I think more marketing rather than R&D dictates up the price.
Last edited by Soul Shinobi on Tue Jan 23, 2007 10:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.
-Nick
1992 BC Legacy L Sedan AWD 5MT 272,000 - Wish you the best
1998 BK Legacy L Wagon 5MT 234,000 miles - RIP
2002 SF Forester S Wagon 5MT 215,000 miles - Current winter sleigh
1986 FC Mazda RX-7 GXL Coupe 5MT 155,000 miles - Summer cruiser
quicklook
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Post by quicklook »

now that was not so hard.
Soul Shinobi
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Post by Soul Shinobi »

Please excuse my inability to do a half-assed job.
-Nick
1992 BC Legacy L Sedan AWD 5MT 272,000 - Wish you the best
1998 BK Legacy L Wagon 5MT 234,000 miles - RIP
2002 SF Forester S Wagon 5MT 215,000 miles - Current winter sleigh
1986 FC Mazda RX-7 GXL Coupe 5MT 155,000 miles - Summer cruiser
quicklook
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Post by quicklook »

i have never insinuated that.

i have only tried to help you out.

i cannot help if you read other things into my posts.

an oil change is a very basic job.

it is almost impossible to be "half-assed" about it.
subytech
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Post by subytech »

quicklook wrote:i have never insinuated that.

i have only tried to help you out.

i cannot help if you read other things into my posts.

an oil change is a very basic job.

it is almost impossible to be "half-assed" about it.
Oh i have to interject here I know that you did not mean to be and ass and I'm in no way saying you are, but dear GOD you should see some of the cars that come in for an oil change after going to say jiffy lube or someplace like that, double gasketed filters, loose filters and plugs, oil caps left off, its scary that people trust their cars to people that do stupid stuff like that! :shock: Were in the process of replaceing an engine in a Impreza right now because somebody at a oilchange place never tightned the drain plug, it fell out and, well, I bet you can guess the rest.
92 Legacy Turbo, 5sp MT, Early Large CC 20G heads, Ported custom clocked td04, Cobb catted DP, Injen SS 3" exhaust, Turbosmart MBC @ 10psi, Apexi 20g intake, custom FMIC, Fidanza 11lb flywheel, stock 05 WRX clutch
quicklook
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Post by quicklook »

i have never had anyone change my oil in any vehicle i have ever owned, from brand new vehicles to $200 beaters.

i consider people on this forum to be intelligent enough not to use quick change oil places.
Soul Shinobi
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Post by Soul Shinobi »

Well then I suppose that would explain your lack of empathy for someone who simply hasn't done it before. Mind you that there is a first time for everything, and you were, at one point in time, my age and at my experience level.

Also,
quicklook wrote:i have only tried to help you out.
I have hardly found your comments criticizing the depth of my analysis 'helpful' and your other comments such as "knowledgeable people have given you some choices, so choose one" and "now that was not so hard" seemed condescending and I found them to be rude.
-Nick
1992 BC Legacy L Sedan AWD 5MT 272,000 - Wish you the best
1998 BK Legacy L Wagon 5MT 234,000 miles - RIP
2002 SF Forester S Wagon 5MT 215,000 miles - Current winter sleigh
1986 FC Mazda RX-7 GXL Coupe 5MT 155,000 miles - Summer cruiser
quicklook
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Post by quicklook »

again, you are reading too much into my posts.

i think you are trying to pick a fight with me.

my posts were meant to be helpful and if you think otherwise that is your problem.
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