Engine Help (EVERYDAY NEW PROBLEMS...)

rfizzle · Post by **rfizzle** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 3:51 am

when I'm driving along my engine runs fine but if I try to accelerate it stats to putter?
Fuel Filter?
Fuel Pump?
Spark?
I'm lost, It runs fine if I just rev it but when in gear it feels like it's going to die unless it's above 5000rpm

HELP!!

**********NEW**********
Read latest post for up to date info......

douglas vincent · Post by **douglas vincent** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 5:30 am

water temp sensor....?

Its located under the intake manifold on the crossover pipe on the passenger side and kinda a bitch to get to. But it has been a problem for many many people. just keep it in mind...... Its the red thing..

rfizzle · Post by **rfizzle** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 5:43 am

you mean like it goes bad or falls out I had a chevy that had that problem?

skid542 · Post by **skid542** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 5:45 am

Doug beat me to it. I'd guess it's the water temp sensor as well. I had to replace mine to cure similar problems. Pain in the rear to get to but relatively cheap.

Any CEL's?

rfizzle · Post by **rfizzle** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 5:46 am

sorry CELs <-?????

skid542 · Post by **skid542** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 5:57 am

Check Engine Lights. There are two black connectors underneath your dash that you can connect together to get the check engine light to flash in a particular sequence if the ECU has recorded any problems with sensors. I don't have the link on hand but a quick search or maybe even check the BBS library will show you which ones and what the different codes mean. It's pretty easy and can be really helpful.

rfizzle · Post by **rfizzle** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 5:59 am

no engine lights at all thats whats weird to me

Manarius · Post by **Manarius** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 6:07 am

MAF is toast I bet.

skid542 · Post by **skid542** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 6:17 am

Just because there aren't any on currently doesn't mean that the ECU hasn't recorded a problem. If you haven't reset it for a while try reseting it and driving around for several miles and then check for codes. Sometimes it record a problem and not turn your light on until you actually check it.

Though it still causes confusion when the lights off and the engine doesn't go

(been there before).

Does your exhaust smell like unburnt gas? Does it start up in the mornings fine? The fact the engine runs fine at varying speeds (I pressume it does and only is a problem under acceleration) leads to me believe it's a fueling/mixture problem. If your MAF was bad I'd expect you to have problems at steady loads as well.

And to answer the question you asked while I was posting my first response - sometimes the temp sensors just go bad. If it'd fallen you you'd noticed via all the coolant that'd come with

.

rfizzle · Post by **rfizzle** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 6:27 am

it doesn't smell like unburnt fuel, it starts up ok... and it only happens under accelortation. so not MAF but proably temp thingy

skid542 · Post by **skid542** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 6:41 am

That would be my first guess and likely easiest to check out. If the temp sensor doesn't appear to be bad or a new one doesn't fix the problem then I'd start looking at the fuel delivery system.

Checking for loose or corroded wires around the pump area. Replacing the fuel filter is a relatively easy process as well and the fuel sock is easy from what I've heard (never messed with the pumps myself). Your pump may also just be getting old. But then again my last BC was running strong with 222k on it and I have no idea when/if its pump was ever replaced.

So stay optimistic for the temp sensor and sleep well knowing if it's not then you're not without hope yet

.

And if you don't have a Haynes manual, this is the perfect excuse to pick one up. It does discuss code checking and fuel pump stuff pretty well.

rfizzle · Post by **rfizzle** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 6:45 am

I'm defently going to try the temp sensor tomorow and maybe the fuel filter too (good thing to replace anyways) yeah I have a chiltons manual jsut to lazy to actually read it. easier to use this everybody seems pretty knowledgeable.

thanks

skid542 · Post by **skid542** » Mon Dec 04, 2006 6:55 am

Haha fair enough, let us know how it goes.

rfizzle · Post by **rfizzle** » Tue Dec 05, 2006 11:59 pm

ok got the sensor today from the parts store about to go put it in....
but just as a side note it has started when ideling to occastionaly just sputter? Same problem, different problem????

rfizzle · Post by **rfizzle** » Wed Dec 06, 2006 12:30 am

ok just put it in no change?????
it could be running lean?
O2 sensor?
fuel pump?
MAF?
HELP!!!

rfizzle · Post by **rfizzle** » Wed Dec 06, 2006 6:48 am

K ran codes...
got a
13...... CMP Sensor??
22...... Knock Sensor, gonna check this out tomorow
31..... TPS???

The other two couldn't even find in my Chilton book

skid542 · Post by **skid542** » Wed Dec 06, 2006 7:46 am

Did you see any change at all with the new water temp sensor?

I would probably change out the knock sensor first as it's got the most ability to actively pull timing if it's broken. There is an old and new style knock sensor and the old is prone to breaking. I believe you want the one with the white connector, a quick search will verify this as I'm tired and my memory is a little hazy. If your cam angle sensor (13) is bad then I'd be inclined to think you'd have troubles even getting it started. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong here.

The TPS has also been known to cause troubles. One of the guys around here actually got the guts to adjust it one day with sucess, IRCC. If you don't want to adjust it, it's easier/recommended that you replace the throttle body with the sensor attached to it.

As far as the other two codes, I'll direct you to here - http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html , in hopes that does it for you.

Post by **Legacy777** » Wed Dec 06, 2006 8:00 pm

Just a quick question....are the parts you're buying (coolant temp sensor) subaru parts, or parts from a generic parts store?

rfizzle · Post by **rfizzle** » Wed Dec 06, 2006 8:43 pm

no change after temp sensor...

They are gereral parts, bad idea or what?
and i think today I'm gonna change the TPS It makes the most sense to me with the problem. All air no gas....

rfizzle · Post by **rfizzle** » Wed Dec 06, 2006 9:09 pm

k just ran to the parts store they wanted $400 for a TPS
So I might try the stealership or used?
any other ideas???

Matt Monson · Post by **Matt Monson** » Wed Dec 06, 2006 10:02 pm

I am pretty sure I've got a used TB sitting around. $25 is what I usually charge. You could get it when you come to get the shortblock...

rfizzle · Post by **rfizzle** » Thu Dec 07, 2006 12:19 am

Even though I havent meet you Matt I think I like you.....

Post by **Legacy777** » Thu Dec 07, 2006 7:44 pm

I'd personally recommend using only subaru parts on these cars.

I may be biased, but especially things like sensors....it's not something I'd put a generic part in.

dzx · Post by **dzx** » Fri Dec 08, 2006 7:51 am

Do you think your timing may have jumped a tooth?

rfizzle · Post by **rfizzle** » Fri Dec 08, 2006 2:54 pm

no because it really seems to be a throtle issue, since it seems to get worse the more throtle you give it. Orginaly I though it was running lean so I looked to the fuel sys. but when I ran codes it all kinda clicked

legacycentral bbs

A forum for 89-94 BC-BF(BJ) Legacy Owners and Fans

Engine Help (EVERYDAY NEW PROBLEMS...)

Engine Help (EVERYDAY NEW PROBLEMS...)