Help me with my 91 Legacy

[Seahawk]

Ok.. I recently bought a 91 legacy FWD Wagon, non-turbo EJ22 (for $200) to replace my Pathfinder when I sell it. For $200, the car needs a little work:

I need to replace the:
Timing belt/water pump
Heater core (currently bypassed because it leaks)

However, I need to get this gem running in good condition first. I checked the codes, then reset the ECM and let it idle for about 15 minutes and waited for the codes to return. Here's what I got:

11-crank angle sensor/circuit
17-Fuel injector #4 circuit
22-Knock sensor
23-Airflow sensor
33-Vehicle speed sensor
35-Purge control solenoid valve

I tested the crank position sensor and it doesn't give enough resistance, so I ordered one and I am going to replace it today and see what happens.

Any other thoughts? Bad ground somewhere? Bad ECM?

[scuzzy]

Ok.. I recently bought a 91 legacy FWD Wagon, non-turbo EJ22 (for $200) to replace my Pathfinder when I sell it. For $200, the car needs a little work:

I need to replace the:
Timing belt/water pump
Heater core (currently bypassed because it leaks)

However, I need to get this gem running in good condition first. I checked the codes, then reset the ECM and let it idle for about 15 minutes and waited for the codes to return. Here's what I got:

11-crank angle sensor/circuit
17-Fuel injector #4 circuit
22-Knock sensor
23-Airflow sensor
33-Vehicle speed sensor
35-Purge control solenoid valve

I tested the crank position sensor and it doesn't give enough resistance, so I ordered one and I am going to replace it today and see what happens.

Any other thoughts? Bad ground somewhere? Bad ECM?

bad ground, clean/replace your ground cables with lower gauge (thicker) cables. there's no way in the world the car can have that many sensor failures at once without either a ground problem or a faulty ECU.

I'm inclined to believe that if it's the ECU, it would have lots of trouble just cranking, much less running.

[Seahawk]

thanks, I was thinking that there's no way those sensors could all be bad, and the car still run fine! (well a little rough, but running and driveable!)

When I tested the crank sensor that was in the car, I didn't zero out my ohm meter, and misdiagnosed it. From my experience with other cars with cam/crank sensors, if one is out or they are out of phase, the engine will not run at all.

I pulled the ECM out today, and tapped on it while the engine was running.. no problems. I also took it apart and looked for burns/water damage..none.

The engine light comes on and off while the car drives. The guy I bought it from said it has always done that.

I guess I will check and clean up all the grounds and see what happens. I would like to get the problem fixed so the CEL isn't going to be crying wolf the whole time I drive this car.

[livestrong14]

Where are you located? If you are in the Portland Area you can contact my dad's shop at 503-504-4032. We specialize in all 1990 and up subies.

Ask for Dale

[Seahawk]

thanks man, but I am in North Carolina and I do my own work.. but if you have any ideas on the problem, that would be helpful.

[Legacy777]

I replied to your thread over on nasioc. I'd suggest checking all the sensors & wiring between those sensors and the ECU.

Check out the stuff you need to know forum for info on how to get factory manual scans if you don't have some.

[Seahawk]

Thanks for your reply.. I just read it.

I will check each sensor and wiring to the ECU, as well as all the ECU grounds. I still think it is a ground issue for all of these codes to appear, and the car still be driveable.

[subytech]

make sure you re-set the ecu when you replace anything, some codes can be set by problems with other sensors, like if the car stalls alot because of a bad idle air motor it can set codes like misfire and knock sensor faults.

[Seahawk]

Update:

Pulled codes today

11
17
22
23
33
35
49

Drove in D-check mode to clear codes, all the above came back.

Tested wiring between crank sensor and ecu.. all fine.
Disconnected crank sensor and tried starting car.. did not start.
Reconnected, started right up.

Tested knock sensor for continuity to ground. Not there=good.

Tested fuel injector 4 for resistance. My ohm meter reads in 1000 ohms, and normal should be between 12 and 14 ohms. My meter read close to zero, so that would be about right.

Left injector 4 disconnected and restarted car... starts and runs EXACTLY the same, with the same hessitation and roughness as before. I am concluding that injector 4 is clogged or not working.

With car running, tested for voltage from harness at injector 4. Present and pulsing=good.

Now, I will change one of the other injectors with 4, and see if the code flops to the other injector circuit.

I checked the MAF sensor for voltage with ignition ON, and that checks good. I have to get my laptop scan tool up and running to check voltage from the MAF while engine is running.

Still wondering about the VSS. The speedo works fine.

I am also going to check the purge control solenoid now, by jumping 12 volts and listening for a click.

[Seahawk]

Just swapped injectors between 2 and 4, checked the codes, same.

Unplugged both injectors, tried starting car. Started, set code 15.

Disconnected negative to reset battery. Reconnected. Turned key to on WITHOUT even starting car... same codes still there.

I am stumped. Why is my ECU not resetting? I currently have the ECU unplugged and laying on the floor of the car for a few minutes, and I am going to plug it back in.

I don't even know if the car is running on 3 or 4 cylinders. When I run the car without injector 4 connected, it runs the same as when they are all connected.

Maybe I will try and run it with injector 2 disconnected, and 4 connected, and see if it runs the same as when they were both disconnected.

[Legacy777]

When you swapped injectors did you try pulling the connector on injector 4 to see if the car runs the same/worse. Did you do the same with the #2 injector?

Use the black & green connectors to clear the codes.

If you swapped injectors, and if you pull #4 injector and the car doesn't run any different, then you've got a wiring issue, some other issue (not really sure what), or your ECU is tits up.

[Seahawk]

I think the ECU is shot.

I didnt mess with the injector harness with the car running, although #4 seemed a little loose. I don't think the injector is a wiring issue, because with the car running, there is pulsing voltage at the harness to injector 4.

I wish I knew somebody around here with a like car, so I could swap the ECU and see what happens.

What ECUs are compatible with my car? all OBD1 NA EJ22 ECUs?

The ECU is unplugged completely now, and I will leave it like that over night. I will reconnect it in the morning, and check for codes again before I start the car.

To clear the codes, I drove above 10 mph with the green connector hooked up for a minute. Should the black one have been connected too?

Thanks.

Ben

[Legacy777]

Is it auto or manual?

You really need an ECU from a 90-91 legacy. The 92-94's have a different injector style.

I've got the 90 ECU from my car, which should work on yours.

What I'd be willing to do is send you the ECU, to test if it fixes the problem. If it doesn't, send me back the ECU. If it does, pay me for the ECU.

Shoot me an email jlegacy(at)surrealmirage(dot)com and we can try and work out the details.

The green connector only puts the car in d-check mode. To clear the codes, both the green & black connector need to be connected.

[Seahawk]

Sent you an email Josh, I am going to try and clear the codes in a few minutes.

It's a manual Legacy.

Ben

[Seahawk]

Oh, its FWD if that makes a difference in the ECU. And non-turbo.

[Legacy777]

FWD doesn't really matter. However the MT does. There are differences between the AT & MT in the sensors & injectors. The ECU I have is for an AT, so I'm not sure it'll work.