Think im getting a knock noise from my torque converter.....

[ericem]

Thought it was a noise from the heater core, but i tried all settings including off, and it still makes the knocking noise, its not a steady noise, its very inconsistent. one time is was VERY audible, i mean i can have the radio turned up and i can hear it. What can cause this, the car drive, well, lets just say the engine, and the rest of the drivetrain is solid, minus my transmission, that i spent $3000 on, to let a bunch of newbs fix, and screw me, tonight or tommorow ill do a test. Ill listen under the hood while my dad revs the engine, seems to do it, as the rpms drop in 1,2,3,D,N,P, after driving over 80KM/h. Just want to fix this, and not expierence sudden failure.

Thanks.

-Eric

[Bheinen74]

broken flexplate......
dont let newbies work on it next time.

[ericem]

Ok, now does the noise need to be steady, or can it be sometimes, like sometimes its really loud the knock, other times, it knocks fairly less. But i do not notice and slippage. Like if it is a noise in the cabin its normal correct

Seems to do itt at lower speeds. One night i came home, the car was shaking like crazy,but when u stopped it went away, that was after 1+ hours and the highway. Now it went away.

[Stormer]

I'm inclined to agree with Bheinen74, I was having a clanging/banging sort of noise coming from right at the bellhousing, now I've got my car apart waiting for my flexplate to come in. The noise wasn't consistent, either. I heard it on several different ocassions for several weeks before it finally failed.

I didn't experience any slippage until the day it broke, then I experienced no forward motion at all! My suggestion would be to remove either the engine or the transmission to change this plate. I've done the work to change it with both still it the car, but it's been practically impossible. I've said a dozen times by now that I wish I'd just pulled the engine. It couldn't be any harder to take the engine out.

Also, I'm replacing all the hardware for attaching the flexplate to my crankshaft, as one of the bolts broke while I was trying to thread it back in. Fortunately, I was able to remove it, as it had broken with some threads still exposed outside the crank.

[ericem]

I'm inclined to agree with Bheinen74, I was having a clanging/banging sort of noise coming from right at the bellhousing, now I've got my car apart waiting for my flexplate to come in. The noise wasn't consistent, either. I heard it on several different ocassions for several weeks before it finally failed.

I didn't experience any slippage until the day it broke, then I experienced no forward motion at all! My suggestion would be to remove either the engine or the transmission to change this plate. I've done the work to change it with both still it the car, but it's been practically impossible. I've said a dozen times by now that I wish I'd just pulled the engine. It couldn't be any harder to take the engine out.

Also, I'm replacing all the hardware for attaching the flexplate to my crankshaft, as one of the bolts broke while I was trying to thread it back in. Fortunately, I was able to remove it, as it had broken with some threads still exposed outside the crank.

ok, thats exactly what i wanted to know, thanks alot. Now this transmission shop that was suppost to replace two simple things(drivesolenoid c, and clutch packs) messed up the whole tranny, and the torque converter kept cracking they said, because what would happen was when ever i would WOT the engine would just rev of the limiter, then the torque converter grabbed again. These noobs replaced the torque onverter 4 times!!!! AND my transmission still binds sometimes, and AWD doesn;t work And guess how much i paid.....



























$3000!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

So im hoping these guys can't fix anything, and i makred the tranmssion serial number incase they just swap it, and then ill see them at small claims court.

[scuzzy]

I'm inclined to agree with Bheinen74, I was having a clanging/banging sort of noise coming from right at the bellhousing, now I've got my car apart waiting for my flexplate to come in. The noise wasn't consistent, either. I heard it on several different ocassions for several weeks before it finally failed.

I didn't experience any slippage until the day it broke, then I experienced no forward motion at all! My suggestion would be to remove either the engine or the transmission to change this plate. I've done the work to change it with both still it the car, but it's been practically impossible. I've said a dozen times by now that I wish I'd just pulled the engine. It couldn't be any harder to take the engine out.

Also, I'm replacing all the hardware for attaching the flexplate to my crankshaft, as one of the bolts broke while I was trying to thread it back in. Fortunately, I was able to remove it, as it had broken with some threads still exposed outside the crank.

ok, thats exactly what i wanted to know, thanks alot. Now this transmission shop that was suppost to replace two simple things(drivesolenoid c, and clutch packs) messed up the whole tranny, and the torque converter kept cracking they said, because what would happen was when ever i would WOT the engine would just rev of the limiter, then the torque converter grabbed again. These noobs replaced the torque onverter 4 times!!!! AND my transmission still binds sometimes, and AWD doesn;t work And guess how much i paid.....

$3000!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

So im hoping these guys can't fix anything, and i makred the tranmssion serial number incase they just swap it, and then ill see them at small claims court.

I'd say you're the bigger noob if you let some kids who didn't know wtf they were doing work on it and not get it right the first time.

[ericem]

I'd say you're the bigger noob if you let some kids who didn't know wtf they were doing work on it and not get it right the first time.

but um, they weren't kids, and had alot of subaru upfront,AND they never called me to tell me what those crack heads were doing, got a orignal quote of 1500, go back, its double My mom needs the car, so not much we can do. Im hoping they can not fix it, and that i get atleast 90percent of the money back, or most likely ill see them in court

[ericem]

Eh, who thinks ill make it from, Toronto, Ontario to the Detriot auto show, with the torque converter like this? gps told me its 3hours away.

[scuzzy]

Eh, who thinks ill make it from, Toronto, Ontario to the Detriot auto show, with the torque converter like this? gps told me its 3hours away.

you may make it but remember catastrophic engine failure - such as flywheel distruction at 3000 rpms, can cause far more damage, such as a ruined TC, trashed bellhousing requiring a new transmission, and if part of the flywheel stays intact and goes round and round with the crank, the upset crank balance can ruin your crank bearings, requiring an engine rebuild.


Here's the question, is it worth it?

I think not.

[Stormer]

I'm not so sure I'd worry about massive destruction in the event of failure, as the drive plate weighs about 3 lbs, instead of the 20+ lbs. the average flywheel weighs. On the other hand, when this fails, you stop. There's nothing to be done except to get a tow, and would you really want to tow it back from three hours away? That'd have to be awfully pricey.

[Bheinen74]

stormer, you are partially correct, the flexplate weighs pretty light. but the torque converter which is bolted to it weighs probably a hefty 50 pounds. so it is about the same wieght as a flywheel......
when my fleplate broke, the TC pilot shaft was welded into the end of the crankshaft.......from being broke a while, then the flexplate let go completely, and the TC pilot shaft littery twisted apart from the converter. the snout had to be drilled out from the crank.

[Stormer]

stormer, you are partially correct, the flexplate weighs pretty light. but the torque converter which is bolted to it weighs probably a hefty 50 pounds. so it is about the same wieght as a flywheel......
when my fleplate broke, the TC pilot shaft was welded into the end of the crankshaft.......from being broke a while, then the flexplate let go completely, and the TC pilot shaft littery twisted apart from the converter. the snout had to be drilled out from the crank.

All I can say to that is, holy crap!!!! I'm very thankful that didn't happen to mine, now, however!

BTW, if you're changing the rear crankshaft oil seal while you're in there, you might as well take the engine out of the car. I couldn't get a seal to seat correctly in the back of the block while the engine and tranny were both still in the car. Plus, driveplate bolts are a lot easier to remove when you can really get at them.

BTW, I finally got my car fixed completely (after having to tear it back apart because of the rear crankshaft oil seal...) today!