Replacing front wheel hub
Moderators: Helpinators, Moderators
-
wallgood358
- First Gear
- Posts: 158
- Joined: Sun Nov 19, 2006 3:14 am
- Location: Tucson, AZ
Replacing front wheel hub
I am going to attempt to fix the wheel bearing issue i am having and swap hubs from one i got off here (thanks blackbart). I am kinda new to doing any work of this kindd. I know my way around an engine bay, but not alot under the car. I plan to do this in my front car on a jackstand with no power tools at all. First of all, what kind of job am i looking at and second, is there a write up with possible pics?
-
IronMonkeyL255
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 1902
- Joined: Sat Aug 09, 2003 5:02 pm
- Location: Woodruff, SC
I've done it on jackstands with just handtools, though I pulled mine off, pressed in a new bearing, then re-installed my old one.
BTW, I am assuming that you mean the spindle assembly. I recognize the big hunk of cast iron everything attaches to as the spindle, and the hub as the portion that presses into the bearing and has the wheel studs and CV joint splines on it.
Only real issue is you will probably need an alignment afterwards, due to having to remove the camber bolt that attaches the spindle to the strut.
When removing the tie rod end, remove the nut most of the way and hit the spindle with a hammer where the end is inserted. This will relieve the tension in the casting and make the spindle let go of the rod end. I didn't realize this, so I had to unscrew the whole thing and I screwed up my toe adjustment......
Also, if you only lift one side of the car (as I did), be sure to remove the swaybar linkage first (as I didn't), otherwise the swaybar will hold the control arm up as you remove the strut bolts and you get to watch the strut come down and slice the CV boot open (as I did).
Hope that helps some.
BTW, I am assuming that you mean the spindle assembly. I recognize the big hunk of cast iron everything attaches to as the spindle, and the hub as the portion that presses into the bearing and has the wheel studs and CV joint splines on it.
Only real issue is you will probably need an alignment afterwards, due to having to remove the camber bolt that attaches the spindle to the strut.
When removing the tie rod end, remove the nut most of the way and hit the spindle with a hammer where the end is inserted. This will relieve the tension in the casting and make the spindle let go of the rod end. I didn't realize this, so I had to unscrew the whole thing and I screwed up my toe adjustment......
Also, if you only lift one side of the car (as I did), be sure to remove the swaybar linkage first (as I didn't), otherwise the swaybar will hold the control arm up as you remove the strut bolts and you get to watch the strut come down and slice the CV boot open (as I did).
Hope that helps some.
Disclaimer: If anything I post is inaccurate, please correct me. I do not wish to add to the misinformation floating around on the internet.
That being said, everything I post is accurate to the best of my knowledge.
Rio Red '91 Legacy SS
That being said, everything I post is accurate to the best of my knowledge.
Rio Red '91 Legacy SS
It's pretty straight forward. You can probably do it without air tools (though they make it nice). PB Blaster will be a must.
You'll need:
32mm for the axle nut 1 1/4" socket works too.
19mm for the strut bolts.
14mm for the calper bracket bolts.
12mm for the caliper bolt.
??mm for the tie rod end.
Ball joint fork if you're reusing the old ball joint
otherwise a 14 or 17mm for the ball joint and pinch bolt.
I think that's everything. First thing you do is break the axle nut loose with the tire on the car and on the ground. Then you can put your car on a jackstand. You can do everything else then, but loosen the axle nut first (don't forget to unstake it by bending up that part on the nut that's been hammered down). Get the caliper, caliper bracket, strut bolts, tie rod, ball joint (if you're using your old one, don't unbolt it, just take out the pinch bolt).
It shouldn't be hard it all. Just put it back together the opposite that you take it apart lol.
If anything's unclear, just ask.
You'll need:
32mm for the axle nut 1 1/4" socket works too.
19mm for the strut bolts.
14mm for the calper bracket bolts.
12mm for the caliper bolt.
??mm for the tie rod end.
Ball joint fork if you're reusing the old ball joint
otherwise a 14 or 17mm for the ball joint and pinch bolt.
I think that's everything. First thing you do is break the axle nut loose with the tire on the car and on the ground. Then you can put your car on a jackstand. You can do everything else then, but loosen the axle nut first (don't forget to unstake it by bending up that part on the nut that's been hammered down). Get the caliper, caliper bracket, strut bolts, tie rod, ball joint (if you're using your old one, don't unbolt it, just take out the pinch bolt).
It shouldn't be hard it all. Just put it back together the opposite that you take it apart lol.
If anything's unclear, just ask.
SUBARUEHS Racing
-
IronMonkeyL255
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 1902
- Joined: Sat Aug 09, 2003 5:02 pm
- Location: Woodruff, SC
-
entirelyturbo
- quasi-mod-o
- Posts: 6000
- Joined: Thu Dec 05, 2002 7:06 pm
- Location: Tampa, FL
I wanna say it's a 19mm for the tie-rod nut, but can't remember for sure.
It's not hard. You don't necessarily need PB Blaster (unless you have a lot of rust) but you definitely need a tie-rod fork.
Search for my thread "Wheel Bearing Project" in the picture gallery. The pics are broken, but there's some worthwhile explanation.
It's not hard. You don't necessarily need PB Blaster (unless you have a lot of rust) but you definitely need a tie-rod fork.
Search for my thread "Wheel Bearing Project" in the picture gallery. The pics are broken, but there's some worthwhile explanation.