CEL codes 41 & 13

[tonflo]

About 6-8 wks ago I got a CEL that went away after a few shut off & restarts. Tonight as I was almost home I got a CEL & it won't go away. I pulled the codes (my wires were way on the right above the gas pedal) and get 41 (A/F learning control) and 13 (cam angle sensor). I tried searching but as soon as you use "code" as a word you get 8 zillion hits. I wish there was a way to search within one forum. Any ideas for what I should do next? The car is getting older & mpg isn't good, but still cheaper than new car pymts. I am contemplating doing a timing belt & water pump soon so maybe things could be combined. Is there a simple way to test the cam angle sensor? I have no idea what to do about the A/F learning code.

Thanks,
Tony

Note: these codes were with the black connectors connected. This the correct method, right? Also, how do you clear them? I unhooked the battery for a while & they're still there. The library code pulling procedure says to connect them at the appropriate time to clear the codes, but never says when the appropriate time is.

[grippingdrifting]

The black connectors are for old codes; ones stored in the ECU's memory.

What you want is the "d-check" mode which shows the current codes. To pull the existing codes, use only the green connectors then drive around to see if any codes appear.

I've always connected both the green and black first and then turn the ignition on. I believe you're also supposed to hold the gas pedal all the way down for 3 sec then go to half and release.

I usually disconnect the battery then hold the brake pedal all the way down for 30 sec (supposed to drain stored up electricity). Before I reconnect the battery, I hook up both connectors then do the above reset procedure.

[tonflo]

I will do the green connectors tonight. Thanks for info. I didn't know the green connectors were fresh codes only. Will follow procedure in library & see what happens. The CEL went away last night after I put everything back together & started it.

[Legacy777]

The black connetors show old and current codes stored in memory.

The green connectors just do a more thorough diagnostic, that's all.

[SemperGuard]

If you use the drop-down menu next to the word Forum, you can search in one forum at a time.

[tonflo]

If you use the drop-down menu next to the word Forum, you can search in one forum at a time.

I don't see where you are referring to. On which page & where on the page?

[tonflo]

Is the correct method to clear the codes connecting both the black & green sets of connectors then doing the D-check key on, gas pedal, drive car procedure? I got another about 30 sec CEL last night & this is pissing me off.

[Legacy777]

Is the correct method to clear the codes connecting both the black & green sets of connectors then doing the D-check key on, gas pedal, drive car procedure? I got another about 30 sec CEL last night & this is pissing me off.

Yes, that is the correct procedure to clear the codes.

[tonflo]

OK, got another CEL on way home today. Did the regular pull code connector & got 41 & 13 again. Did green connectors for D-link, drove it & got 51- abnormal signal from neutral safety switch.
I somehow don't think that's too serious.
I then connected both sets of connectors(to clear codes) and did D-link again & drove around. Got 51 again while driving.
Once back home, did just the black connectors and now get just a slow repeted CEL blinking, no short/long flashes ot any kind of pauses. Just a repeated long blink.

Is this normal & are my stored codes cleared? Should I worry about the 51 code?

I should note that in hunting around for the black connectors, I ended up pulling 2 male spade connectors out of electrical tape, don't appear to be pulled out of the backside of a plastic connector. Don't know if these are connected to neutral switch. They seemed to be just tucked away for safe keeping.

TIA,
Tony

[grippingdrifting]

I had code 51 and it caused to annoyances. When I let off the gas, it would accelerate for a few seconds then act normal and when idling the RPMs flucuated.

The neutral switch is builtin to the TPS. You need to properly adjust the TPS. Here's how: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... sting3.jpg

[tonflo]

Can you post the diagram that shows whatever terminals they are talking about? Anyone in northeastern/central CT got an ohmmeter & want to play around with it? Why on earth is the neutral safety switch part of the TPS? Wouldn't it be connected to the shifter?

[grippingdrifting]

Here are the other diagrams:
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... sting1.jpg
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... sting2.jpg

[tonflo]

How come there's no mention of the neutral safety switch in the pics you posted? If it's integral to the TPS, shouldn't they at least mention that it's there, if not explain testing?

[grippingdrifting]

Sorry, I'm a dumb ass and misread your post. Those diagrams are for the idle switch. I brain-farted and thought the idle switch was the neutral. I don't know what I was thinking when I responded.

Anyhoo, you might try this post: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic. ... ral+switch

[tonflo]

I thought something was fishy. Anyone think the 2 wires with skinny male connectors taped up under the dash are related?

[93Leg-c]

On my ss, I had two black wires each with a long, skinny male metal tab a little over 1/4" long that looked like they belonged inside of the plastic housing of a connector. Since I couldn't find my black connectors for the self-diagnostic testing, I figured someone in the past had broken the plastic housings off. So, I crimped on male and female connectors and they turned out to be the elusive test black connectors that I had been searching for.

But I think you already have your black connector identified, right? So your wires must be to something else.

Well, reviewing this post, I see that it's not going to help you at all but I'll go ahead and post it anyway.