brakes
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unless you spring for 2-piece rotors, which don't are available for those calipers, DBAs are actually a bit heavier. Which is good.
More rotor mass = more heat capacity.
The 4000 is their OEM equivalent, the 5000 is a step up. Rotors don't really make a difference as long as they're straight though. Holes and slots are essentially rice. I would go with Brembo or autozone blanks, but spending extra on the DBAs does provide a cooling advantage due to the fancy vane design..
More rotor mass = more heat capacity.
The 4000 is their OEM equivalent, the 5000 is a step up. Rotors don't really make a difference as long as they're straight though. Holes and slots are essentially rice. I would go with Brembo or autozone blanks, but spending extra on the DBAs does provide a cooling advantage due to the fancy vane design..
Last edited by jamal on Sat Sep 01, 2007 11:47 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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jamal wrote:unless you spring for 2-piece rotors, which don't are available for those calipers, DBAs are actually a bit heavier. Which is good.
More rotor mass = more heat capacity.
The 4000 is their OEM equivalent, the 5000 is a step up. Rotors don't really make a difference as long as they're straight though. Holes and slots are essentially rice. I would go with Brembo or autozone blanks.
see i always thought slots and holes made it so they stayed cooler didn't heat up as quickly. Maybe its me but if a rotor heats up enough it can be damaged easier, and then there no longer straight, and there goes your only qualification for rotors, feel free to correct me if i dont know what im talking about, just my 2 censt
2010 Impreza WRX - 265hp
1990 Legacy 267,000km(Rebuild complete 265,423km----March 9/2008)
1991 Legacy Turbo 180,000km
1990 Legacy 267,000km(Rebuild complete 265,423km----March 9/2008)
1991 Legacy Turbo 180,000km
yeah, the problem is that when you have slots and especially holes is that when the rotor heats up you cause stress concentrations. Take a fancy porsche with drilled rotors, throw on some track pads and spend a day lapping, and they wiill crack.
The holes were never intended to aid cooling. They came out when pads outgassed, and would give that gas somewhere to go. The added surface area provided by them does not make up for the lost mass, and the vanes in the rotor do a much better job than holes ever could.
Slots, on the other hand, can help keep the pad clean in rally or whatever and help evacuate water. They can keep the pads from glazing over, but if you're at that stage it's the last thing you should be worried about.
The holes were never intended to aid cooling. They came out when pads outgassed, and would give that gas somewhere to go. The added surface area provided by them does not make up for the lost mass, and the vanes in the rotor do a much better job than holes ever could.
Slots, on the other hand, can help keep the pad clean in rally or whatever and help evacuate water. They can keep the pads from glazing over, but if you're at that stage it's the last thing you should be worried about.
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Regular cryo treated rotors. Slots cut the pads more to keep them from glazing. That may help 'warping' since I would think it would keep glazed material from building up inconsistently on the rotor surface. I wouldn't bother with anything but standard cryo rotors. They've lasted a long damn time and worked great.
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jamal: what about cryo slotted rotors? Does the slotting not add any braking performance for track use?
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i dont think its worth it, ya i am trying to just lose some wieght.
i am getting light rims, so i was thinking of getting light rotors as well. like dba 2 piece ones.
i am getting light rims, so i was thinking of getting light rotors as well. like dba 2 piece ones.
1993 Subaru Legacy 44B STi 4Cam 16Valve Turbo Intercooled AWD
EJ22T, STi EJ207 DOHC, Vi-PEC (Spare Autronic) @ 426.20HP / 394.94ft lb @ 00psi
Tuned By: Franz Diebold ( DIEBOLD AUTOSPORT ) @ NVauto
EJ22T, STi EJ207 DOHC, Vi-PEC (Spare Autronic) @ 426.20HP / 394.94ft lb @ 00psi
Tuned By: Franz Diebold ( DIEBOLD AUTOSPORT ) @ NVauto
Nico,
To maintain your braking performance and go lighter, you need two-peice rotors. End of story. The rotors you have are the same as all the other WRX rotors, so I would believe you can find them. The rears, you may not be able to find in a two-piece setup.
As for the slotting & drilled rotors.....there are some benefits, but there are also draw-backs. I've run all of them, drilled, slotted, & blanks for quite some time and the only thing I'll be putting back on any of my cars is normal OEM rotors that have been cryo-treated. I have been amazed at how the cryo-treatment process improves rotor longevity.
To maintain your braking performance and go lighter, you need two-peice rotors. End of story. The rotors you have are the same as all the other WRX rotors, so I would believe you can find them. The rears, you may not be able to find in a two-piece setup.
As for the slotting & drilled rotors.....there are some benefits, but there are also draw-backs. I've run all of them, drilled, slotted, & blanks for quite some time and the only thing I'll be putting back on any of my cars is normal OEM rotors that have been cryo-treated. I have been amazed at how the cryo-treatment process improves rotor longevity.
Josh
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
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