Codes 21,35,42 = no start?

[beatersubi]

So, I just finished the 22t swap into my 92 n/a wagon. I used the n/a harness, swapping the crank and cam sensor wires, and ran new wiring for the boost related stuff. Now it won't start.

It has fuel and spark. I'm pretty sure the injectors are plugged in correctly, but I can't really translate the colors 'L' and 'Lg' in the FSM wiring diagram.

I pulled codes: 21 (water temp sensor), 35 (canister purge solenoid inop.), and 42 (abnormal idle switch voltage). Since I had the TB from the n/a motor sitting right there, I went ahead and replaced that, knowing that the TB was working fine. After reconnecting the battery, I get the same codes.

I have two specific questions: Would any of these codes keep the engine from starting, and why would the idle switch code come back w/ a known good TB?

Any other help, advice, or guidance is greatly appreciated.

[Legacy777]

You can have irroneous codes come up. When you swapped the cam & crank sensor wires....what did you swap? Just the positive pins?

Are you triple sure all your other wiring is correct?

[beatersubi]

No, I haven't triple checked yet. It was late and I was tired and hurried.
I first mistakenly swapped the shields for the cam and crank. But vrg3 says that they're grounded to the same place in the ecu. I believe him. So I left them and swapped the positives.
I'm gonna go check my wiring again, right now.

[dzx]

Did you get the timing right? Using the notch instead of the arrow on the crank pulley?

[beatersubi]

Yes, I used the notches.

I just fininshed repairing my first attempt at wire swapping. I don't know what I was smoking, but I must've inhaled. I had the TPS wires mixed up w/ the cam and crank sensor wires.

So, I think I have it all correctly wired now. But it still wont start. I'm getting the same codes as before, but now 31 (abnormal throttle sensor v.) also. I checked the voltage at the TPS: ~.1 v. In and out, regardless of throttle position.
Does this mean my ECU is bad?

[beatersubi]

Okay, so I sorted the wiring out. Turns out I'm a total noob.

The car runs good, when the hose to the bypass valve isn't blowing off(rockethound, hows that intercooler flange/pipe thread project coming?).

While on a shakedown run the boost spiked to ~14 psi, and I'm only running stock EM . When I got home I ran the codes again and got a 45 (press sensor and press exchange solenoid). Is there a way to check the operation of either? And does one typically go bad before the other?

More thoughts, advice, or humiliating remarks welcome.

[tahiti350]

Beater,
Glad to hear you got it running. Can't help on the boost related questions, but I'm sure someone will chime in soon.

[beatersubi]

New update:
Its running. It makes up to 15psi before it warms up .
Then it hits wicked fuel cut right at 0, when fully warm.

I think the MAP is bad .
With a multimeter the press exchange sol reads ~.50 ohms and clicks with the green connectors connected.
MAP has good ref v. and ground, output v. is ~1.1 with key on, eng off. From what I've found, its supposed to be ~2.6v.

n e 1 want to verify this for a noob?

edit: oh yeah, I'm also now getting a code 49(improper MAF). WTF?

[Legacy777]

There is a pin that needs to be grounded or snipped for the MAF sensor issue. 92-94 only came with the JECS maf sensor, therefore I don't believe had that extra pin setup like on the 90-91 MY's.

As for the MAP sensor, check it using this
http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8 ... sensor.jpg

Also....check your wiring again

[beatersubi]

Checked my wiring for the n'th time. Still can't shake off that noobiness, I guess. I had the wires run to the wrong terminals at the MAP connector.

Thanks Josh.

Look out STi's and EVO's, here I come!

Once I get my alignment corrected, that is.