My 91 na wagon is screwing up again... It makes an annoying queaking noise that is proportional to wheel speed which gets worse and starts to make a metal-on-metal scraping noise when i turn right Also gets louder when coasting
Its coming from the drivers side and i changed the axle on that side yesterday (sooooo easy btw) and at first it went away buut now its as bad as ever. cv had spun its grease out the ripped boot long ago so i guess it had to be changed either way. All I can think it would be is a bent splashgaurd against the rotor or maybe a bearing?
I would check the bearing first and maybe look at the heat shields.
To check the bearing, simply jack the front of the car up, put a hand on the top and bottom of the tire, and rock it back and forth (alternately push the top in towards the motor and the bottom out, and then the opposite). If you feel any play it's likely the wheel bearing. It could also possibly be a ball joint, but this isn't a Ford, and the noise you're describing screams 'wheel bearing' to me.
Disclaimer: If anything I post is inaccurate, please correct me. I do not wish to add to the misinformation floating around on the internet.
That being said, everything I post is accurate to the best of my knowledge.
yerp its the bearing. looking on alldata the bearing looks to be a humongous pain to change and mad expensive (to a hs student) so i'm just gonna take my ass down to harry's u pull it and get me a whole knuckle.
oh also and when my car was in the shop i let the suspension guys practice on it and my toe was waaaaay off supposedly... .64 i think but i dont know the signifigance of that number so take that as you will. i crashed that side (opposite from the bearing) into a curb a month-ish ago and i just got it aligned today lol
Deewwwd... A wheel bearing is small time peanuts. Being in HS has nothing to do with how much you can learn. Why dont you make some mechanic friends that will teach you how to fix this shizzle yourself and save some fundage for the weekend yo. You have alldata already, so get some tools and sit down and do that thing. I just turned 20 and I've been a mechanic for three years now. Get To It!
well the learning part isnt the problem, i'm in my 4th year of auto tech and i have acess to a really nice shop, but time and money are my issues. i need to have the car in and out in under 2 1/2 hours (all the time i have in tech) because i don't have anything else to drive, and my car is my only source of income right now.
i don't think ill be able to get all the suspension apart and the bearings pressed out and back in and it all together in that time frame. i called up wedde subaru today (awesome place btw) and they'll hook me up with a hub w/ good bearing for 65 and just swapping the hub will be a lot easier and cheaper than the ~80 id need for the bearing and seals and axle nut and all that bullshit. if i hadnt already put out 70-ish for the new axle maybe i'd get the new bearings but i'm already really really broke. wish me luck that the bearing lasts me ~400 mostly highway miles till monday or i wont be able to afford to fix it
So, unrelated to my previous problems, making this thread actually in the right sub-board, and taking me completely by surprise, my rear diff blew on the highway coming from shippensburg. Managed to make it to Harrisburg community college's parking lot to wait for AAA. there was a 2-lane wide column of white smoke trailing behind me and the car started shaking like crazy but thankfully the tires didnt lock up. Rear wheels won't move anymore after I stopped which made getting the car on and off the truck a pain in the ass. good thing i had aaa though, got towed over an hour for free! saved me some gas money
notice the oil on the rear window and all over the back of the car
Last edited by Kowalski on Sat Dec 01, 2007 10:52 pm, edited 4 times in total.
I need a 3.9 diff right? I can't read the label on the back of mine anymore. Also, do the axles in the rear support the wheels at all? I was thinking of taking the axles out and putting it in fwd so I can drive it to school so I have a lift to use and a heated shop
Cover the axel nut with a little oil before you install and make sure to torque it to the right specification. I had a bearing fail when the axel nut somehow because loose.
I mean the face of the axel nut that comes into contact with the hub. Either that or at least sand the mating surfaces. Trying to remove axel nuts that are "welded" together sucks. I had a breker bar that was 1 inch diameter solid metal bend while using a 6 foot long breaker bar trying to remove one once.
well damn. i thought i had a 3.9 diff :X im pretty sure i told the shop i needed a 3.9 too but i may have just given them my cars info so maybe they got the right one... legacy777's post says:
1990-1991 AWD non-turbo AT & MT Legacy
4.111 Final Drive Ratio
:X :X :X i hope they arent pissed when i call them tomorrow
sorry for the double post but i need some quick info if anyone can give it. i got the car on the lift and i cant read the diff sticker and i need to be sure that im getting the right one...
the diff in the car is stamped
756
91108
king (logo next to it)
anyone know what gear ratio it is? i need to know asap
What Josh says is backed up by the dealer's parts guide. All 91 NA rear differentials are 4.111 final drive, either part number 27011AA040 or 27011AA111.
Is your car a manual? If it is, you can measure the final drive ratio of the front differential by turning the driveshaft, right? Put the transmission in gear, have someone hold one front wheel still, and turn the rear driveshaft exactly one turn while someone watches the other front wheel. If the other front wheel turns more than eight times, it's 4.111; if it turns less than eight times, it's 3.900. Right? Maybe my logic or arithmetic's a little off, but it's an idea...
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
well my diff is confirmed 4.111, the diff i got is 3.9 but its returnable so its not too much of a problem. my new problem is where the hell to get the right one. wedde subaru doesnt have any other diffs for legacies, but the option to put in a wrx diff w/ male axles is there as they have those... but thats gonna be ~225 w/ axles so thats out... snow everywhere so junkyard is my absolute last resort, and i dont know any other places around here for used subie parts. so.... off to parts shed i guess
i dont see how thats possible
the pinion is broken off its shaft, and it hitting the case is what put that crack on the outside. all but one bearing is completely destroyed. the whole inside of it is lined with gear puree too, yum
All I can think of is that if the fluid were really low, it could have gotten hot enough to make the gears expand to the point where they interfered with each other.
Do you know how much fluid there was?
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
Is it possible that you didn't properly reinstall the drain or fill plug? They're pipe threads if I remember right, so you're supposed to use teflon tape to make them seal.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
Water in the diff? Did the fluid that was there smell like the most godawful undead spawn of hell taking a shit in the sun with just a whiff of petrochemical?
Midnight in a Perfect World on Amazon or order anywhere. The first book in a quartet chronicling the rise of a man from angry criminal to philanthropist. Midnight... is a distopic noirish novel featuring 'Duchess', a modified 1990 Subaru Legacy wagon.
cv had spun its grease out the ripped boot long ago so i guess it had to be changed either way. All I can think it would be is a bent splashgaurd against the rotor or maybe a bearing?
notice the oil on the rear window and all over the back of the car 
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