Well, I'm going to be able to borrow a R12 guage set from a friend... hopefully it's just low on
coolent... but if it turns out the compressor is bad, does anyone have a used one I can buy?
I'm extreamily low on funds ATM, and I won't be able to drop $600 for a while.
Also... if it turns out the compressor is on it's way out, would it damage any other part of the system
if I manually bypass the cut off switch and force it on/off with a toggle?
-Ryan
At 07:53 AM 7/18/2001 -0700, you wrote:
>>>>
Hi-sounds like the problem I had with my 92`s coil on my ac compressor. You can`t get the coil seperate so the whole unit is needed. At 126k, it`s not unusual to need this as I replaced mine @ 150k. I`d keep the R12 as it`s cooler than the 134 & you avoid the extra steps necessary to convert. I felt as though I`d received good, lengthy service from my ac, so I bit the bullet & did it right. My interior is so cold now you could hang meat in there! Total retail cost (parts & labor) could be around $600, but well worth it-(that`s 2 car payments); good luck-ROD (No. AZ.)
----- Original Message -----
From: <mailto:
rpower@colorado.net>Ryan Power
To: <mailto:
BC-BFLegacyWorks@yahoogroups.com>
BC-BFLegacyWorks@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2001 12:56 AM
Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] A/C Compressor Cycling
Hello.
I've recently been having a problem with the A/C Compressor cycling while the
A/C or Defroster is on. It will usually run fine initially, it's when it tried to come on
a second time that the problems occurs. What will happen is the compressor will
engage for 1 to 3 seconds, then shut off for 1 to 5 seconds, then attempt to engage
again. It'll usually loop like this 5 or 6 times, then stay off for around a minute, then
start the sequence again. Looking at the sight glass, with the compressor running,
I'm seeing no bubbles followed by what appears to be mist. I've been unable to see
any large (oil) leaks from any of the A/C tubing and the hoses appear to be in good
condition. Is it just low on coolant or is there a relay/power problem?
Also...
it appears I can convert this system (R12) to an R134a system, however, according to
the Subaru dealer here, it will require a system flush, a new drier, a new pressure sensor,
and new hoses and gaskets. (300+ for the equipment alone). If it does need coolant, should
I just put R12 back into it (at around $2.50/1oz) or should I just look into the conversion?
Or should I just save up and buy a newer Subaru with an R134a system?
Thanks for any help in advance.
-Ryan
P.S. Buying a new/newer used car really isn't an option.
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