EJ22T back together, in the car, now no spark :(
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- Fourth Gear
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EJ22T back together, in the car, now no spark :(
So everything is connected, bolted together, fluids where they should be.
Go to start the car and it turns over, i have no spark
I checked, rechecked and checked again. All the wiring i can clearly see is reconnected. What could cause the coil pack not to send spark?
-Brian
Go to start the car and it turns over, i have no spark
I checked, rechecked and checked again. All the wiring i can clearly see is reconnected. What could cause the coil pack not to send spark?
-Brian
1983 Subaru GL-10 Brat
1986 Toyota 4Runner
1986 Toyota 4Runner
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- Vikash
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What exactly did you do with the engine?
The first thing I would do is check the fuses.
Does the Check Engine Light turn on when you first put the key in "ON" but before you start the car? If not, then the ECU's not getting power.
If the ECU is on but you have no spark, the first things to check are the cam sensor, crank sensor, ignitor, and coil pack.
The first thing I would do is check the fuses.
Does the Check Engine Light turn on when you first put the key in "ON" but before you start the car? If not, then the ECU's not getting power.
If the ECU is on but you have no spark, the first things to check are the cam sensor, crank sensor, ignitor, and coil pack.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
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CEL does come on with the key. So i guess the ECU is getting the power it needs.
Im checking the .pdf version of the service manual, and the wiring diagram isnt much help to me.
I do know, there were 3 plugs on the backside of the motor, center near the throttle body. two were 3 spade plugs, one was a single spade plug.
When removing the motor, i failed to disconnect these 3, and I ended up ruining them. One of the 3 spade connecters just broke the locking tab. I now have it secured with a zip tie. The single spade connector tore from the wire, so I used a standard butt end connector and just reconnected them.
The third 3 spade connector was completely destroyed. the 3 wires comming from the harness side were exposed. I matched the colors and right now they are just connected to the pins in the engine side until I can find a better replacement. Im thinking these are the cam angle and crank sensors??

Im checking the .pdf version of the service manual, and the wiring diagram isnt much help to me.
I do know, there were 3 plugs on the backside of the motor, center near the throttle body. two were 3 spade plugs, one was a single spade plug.
When removing the motor, i failed to disconnect these 3, and I ended up ruining them. One of the 3 spade connecters just broke the locking tab. I now have it secured with a zip tie. The single spade connector tore from the wire, so I used a standard butt end connector and just reconnected them.
The third 3 spade connector was completely destroyed. the 3 wires comming from the harness side were exposed. I matched the colors and right now they are just connected to the pins in the engine side until I can find a better replacement. Im thinking these are the cam angle and crank sensors??
1983 Subaru GL-10 Brat
1986 Toyota 4Runner
1986 Toyota 4Runner
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- Vikash
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Those 3-pin connectors are for the cam and crank sensors. If I remember right, the sensors have long wires permanently attached; you probably damaged one or both sensors when you yanked 'em, unfortunately.
If it's just one, checking the ECU trouble codes should tell you which one.
The single-pin connector is the knock sensor connector, I think. That wouldn't keep the car from starting.
If it's just one, checking the ECU trouble codes should tell you which one.
The single-pin connector is the knock sensor connector, I think. That wouldn't keep the car from starting.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
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- Vikash
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Well, you can read the trouble codes without a scan tool for now.
If you did damage one of the sensors it's not that big a deal -- just get a replacement. Maybe Frank can help you with that.
If you did damage one of the sensors it's not that big a deal -- just get a replacement. Maybe Frank can help you with that.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
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Vik...
I have the car wired for your laptop scan tool... and i have an old laptop that is setup with only the scan tool on it.
I dusted it off, and hooked it up. The scan tool recognized engine RPM when cranking the engine over. Does this work off the crank or cam sensor?
I dont have a multimeter at home, so this was just a quick test to see if the ECU is seeing any RPM, which indicates it does.
I was swapping the 3 loose wires around on the connector in every combination I could. A couple combinations the tach would just sit there and a couple the tach would kinda bounce when turning the engine over.
I'd like to check the ECU for errors, but i have a raging headache now, and i think im going to toss the towel in for the night.
I have the car wired for your laptop scan tool... and i have an old laptop that is setup with only the scan tool on it.
I dusted it off, and hooked it up. The scan tool recognized engine RPM when cranking the engine over. Does this work off the crank or cam sensor?
I dont have a multimeter at home, so this was just a quick test to see if the ECU is seeing any RPM, which indicates it does.
I was swapping the 3 loose wires around on the connector in every combination I could. A couple combinations the tach would just sit there and a couple the tach would kinda bounce when turning the engine over.
I'd like to check the ECU for errors, but i have a raging headache now, and i think im going to toss the towel in for the night.
1983 Subaru GL-10 Brat
1986 Toyota 4Runner
1986 Toyota 4Runner
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- Vikash
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Hm. I don't know whether the ECU would show nonzero RPM if the cam and crank sensors aren't both working. What does the ignition timing readout show?
It's possible the tachometer and RPM readout are just based on the crank angle sensor. I don't know.
Hope your head feels better. Drink lots of water and get lots of rest.
It's possible the tachometer and RPM readout are just based on the crank angle sensor. I don't know.
Hope your head feels better. Drink lots of water and get lots of rest.
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
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Ok so im at work talking to one of the mechanics I work with. He's gone thru training for auto's even tho we work on construction equipment... etc...
Anyhow, he was telling me that a car is able to run on only the crank sensor, and even if the cam sensor was disconnected the motor should still run, but would run like shit. From what he was saying, is vehicles are programmed to use the crank sensor for spark, and the cam sensor for timing. Mind you, he's never touched a subaru, so I can't put much truth to all this, but he has gone through more training than I so I cant call him a liar.
Is there any truth to this?
Anyhow, he was telling me that a car is able to run on only the crank sensor, and even if the cam sensor was disconnected the motor should still run, but would run like shit. From what he was saying, is vehicles are programmed to use the crank sensor for spark, and the cam sensor for timing. Mind you, he's never touched a subaru, so I can't put much truth to all this, but he has gone through more training than I so I cant call him a liar.
Is there any truth to this?
1983 Subaru GL-10 Brat
1986 Toyota 4Runner
1986 Toyota 4Runner
In theory I'd say that's more or less the truth, but I don't know how subarus are programmed, and if that'll work in practice.
Josh
surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
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surrealmirage.com/subaru
1990 Legacy (AWD, 6MT, & EJ22T Swap)
2020 Outback Limted XT
If you need to get a hold of me please email me rather then pm
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- Vikash
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Like Josh says, in principle it's possible for an engine to run without a camshaft position sensor. In fact, my roommate's 91 Escort doesn't have a cam position sensor at all. The crankshaft position sensor provides enough information because the ignition system uses waste spark.
However, our crank sensor doesn't actually provide quite enough information to run the engine, because it is rotationally symmetrical about 180 degrees of rotation. That would mean that there would be two possible positions of the crankshaft for any given reading.
It's theoretically possible for an ECU to make it work anyway by first trying one guess and then the other if the engine doesn't fire with the first one, but I don't believe our ECUs are that smart.
Did you ever check the trouble codes?
However, our crank sensor doesn't actually provide quite enough information to run the engine, because it is rotationally symmetrical about 180 degrees of rotation. That would mean that there would be two possible positions of the crankshaft for any given reading.
It's theoretically possible for an ECU to make it work anyway by first trying one guess and then the other if the engine doesn't fire with the first one, but I don't believe our ECUs are that smart.
Did you ever check the trouble codes?
"Just reading vrg3's convoluted, information-packed posts made me feel better all over again." -- subyluvr2212
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- Fourth Gear
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I printed out the trouble code chart, but havent checked yet. Dont have much time after work to work on the car (not to mention, after wrenching at work for 8 hours, the last thing I wanna do is come home and wrench some more)
I wanna check the ECU for codes, but I wanna replace that bad plug as well. This weekend I should be able to get to the junkyard and get that plug and I think i'll get an extra cam sensor as well just in case.
I wanna check the ECU for codes, but I wanna replace that bad plug as well. This weekend I should be able to get to the junkyard and get that plug and I think i'll get an extra cam sensor as well just in case.
1983 Subaru GL-10 Brat
1986 Toyota 4Runner
1986 Toyota 4Runner
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It's not as tight as it looks, just no room for your hands.
Tie a piece of wire or string to the broken connector. Unbolt and pull the sensor towards the front of the engine, pulling the string behind it. Once the connector clears the manfold and is free, untie that end of the string from your old sensor and tie it to the new one. Pull the far end of the string from the back of the engine to guide the new connector under the manifold. Patience and a bit of fiddling and you'll get it back in place. Bolt it down, plug it in and give her a whirl.
This my not work with a 'new' sensor that is really old. The wires will have taken a set and may not be flexable enough to snake back in.
Another tip is to wrap the string/connector joint in tape to smooth any edges out that may get hung up while removing or replacing it.
Tie a piece of wire or string to the broken connector. Unbolt and pull the sensor towards the front of the engine, pulling the string behind it. Once the connector clears the manfold and is free, untie that end of the string from your old sensor and tie it to the new one. Pull the far end of the string from the back of the engine to guide the new connector under the manifold. Patience and a bit of fiddling and you'll get it back in place. Bolt it down, plug it in and give her a whirl.
This my not work with a 'new' sensor that is really old. The wires will have taken a set and may not be flexable enough to snake back in.
Another tip is to wrap the string/connector joint in tape to smooth any edges out that may get hung up while removing or replacing it.
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'93 Pure White SS EJ20G slanty intercooled, SIDESWIPED! In stasis.
'94 FWD and '95 AWD Laguna Blue SVXs.
2017 Pure Red BRZ Limited w/Performance pack
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