Need Help Once Again Fellas!!!

[AfRoDeSiAk36]

1991 Subaru Legacy Turbo 2.2L

I just replaced my timing belt, serp belts, crankshaft seal, flushed my coolant system, replaced upper and lower radiator hoses, and changed spark plugs.

I did my oil change last night and took it to work today (about 15 miles away). When I got to work I saw smoke coming from under my hood (burning oil). So I said forget it, maybe I put too much oil in the car (4 quarts total) and took it to a Firestone right down the street, and had them replace the oil and filter I had just put on. When driving it home it did two distinct things that it did not do prior to the oil change:

1: It's a manual, so when I would shift from second to third when it would get to about 2500 rpms it would back off as if I had taken my foot off the accelerator. The first time it happened I thought I had taken my foot off, but the second time I knew I had not and after that I was trying to keep an eye on my rpms as to when it would do it. (It only did this twice)

2. When sitting at a red light it would normally idle at 600 rpm (low in my opinion already but whatever) but after about 15 to 20 seconds of sitting there it would drop to about 300 rpm and the engine would shake the car as if it is going to die, although it didn't.

First question if I did put too much oil in the car, and from what I can tell it has a slight leak coming from behind the passenger valve cover and dripping off what I think are exhaust bolts, could this be serious damage? Or will it just take time to get the excess oil burnt and gone.
Second why the hell is it shifting weird???
And third why the HELL is it idleing so low?????

The check engine light is on and before I changed my oil it would blink on and off for a few seconds and then go away, but now it is constantly on. I'm going tomorrow to get it checked and see what the fault/s are.

Your guys help would mean a lot!!! This aint the first time ya'll have got me out of a bind. Thanx!!!

[Arctic Assassian]

if the light was flashing, that signals knock, or constant misfiring. First off, check that code.
http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/codes.htm

Then let us know what that is, And we'll help you. The idle issue and hesitation, seems like some kind of IAC or MAF deal. But the codes in the CEL will tell the real story.

[AfRoDeSiAk36]

Been a rough couple of days. Took the car to a auto hobby shop put it on a lift, and began cleaning the hell out of the engine valve covers exhaust...there was dried up and wet oil everywhere under there. After an hour and a half of cleaning I started it up and checked for a leak, which there was none. The only thing I did see was smoke coming from the exhaust, which I assume is because it is getting so hot and the oil around it that I could not clean was burning and causing the smoke.

I hooked up the black connectors for my ECU and got the codes...this is what it's looking like:

12 - Starter Switch
22 - Knock Sensor
23 - Air Flow Sensor
24 - Air Control Valve
45 - Pressure Sensor and Pressure Exchange Solenoid Valve

I did exactly what the How To....ECU Codes page one legacycentral said in order to reset the ECU, because I just bought the car and I didn't know if any of the codes were old and had just not been cleared. I believe I did it right cause while I was driving around my "check engine" was blinking 6 fast blinks and then after a minute it changed up and was giving me a code 31. After connecting the black connectors this morning and seeing what codes it would give me, none of them had changed. It's still 12, 22, 23, 24 and 45.

What steps should I take as far as correcting these problems? Any of these require crazy long and hard maintenance i.e. (engine pull)?
Your guys help is greatly appreciated!!!

[AfRoDeSiAk36]

After doing the whole sha bang bang with turning the car on letting it warm up...turning it off hooking up both green and black connectors blah blah blah and not being able to clear the codes...I said forget it and just disconnected my negative cable from the battery. Waited a few minutes, connected it, got under the steering column again, connected the black connectors, turned the car to "ON" and still got my same codes. Starting to not make sense because I never turned the engine on, so why is it telling me 12, 22, 23, 24, and 45? ECU bad? Something not working and not allowing the ECU to clear? Need some help cause I'm freakin confused

[douglas vincent]

How far are you from Pheonix? there is a member there.

[Bosco]

I wouldn't give up on your ECU that quickly.
Sounds like you're just not clearing the codes properly. It can be tricky.
I've had terrible luck clearing codes with any method other than this one:

Start with both connectors disconnected, start the engine, allow it to warm up, then turn it off. Next, connect both green and black connectors. Turn ignition to ON position without turning on engine. Depress accelerator pedal to floor, return to half throttle and hold for two seconds, then release. Start the engine. Drive the car over 7 mph for at least one minute, and shift up to 4th gear if you have a manual tranny. The Check Engine light will flash continuously if the codes are properly cleared.

(this is the same method as listed in the library, just adjusted to refer only to clearing the codes.)

Try again carefully and it should work. It always has for me, even when other methods didn't.

[AfRoDeSiAk36]

That was the exact method I used when I first attempted clearing the codes. While driving around the "CEL" was continuosly beeping I maintained a speed above 7mph and got it to 4th gear. After what I would say was a minute, the light went from continously beeping to giving me a code 31 (three long lights and one quick one). The "CEL" has not come back on, but when I do connect the black connectors it is still giving me the same 5 codes.

It still idles low for about 10 seconds it will drop from 700 rpms to 300 rpms. Yesterday was the first day that I filled the car up with gas, I put premium in it with octane booster and fuel injector cleaner. So far I have driven about 40 miles on the full tank and it has gone from full to a little above 3/4ths of a tank. I've never filled this car up but that gas mileage ratio doesn't seem very good for a 4 cylinder, could that be attributed to the IAC or MAF?

I also noticed that when I push on my brakes to slow down, the stock head unit's display dims.

Thanx for the responses!!!

[Legacy777]

If you get a code from the active diagnostic (green connectors only), you need to try and resolve that code. Otherwise the codes will not clear.

I'm not sure if having a code displayed while trying to clear them indicates an active code, but I'd start there.

Connect just the green connetors. This is from my website, which lists how to do the d-check test.

If you have done the above procedure, you will likely wonder what the green T-shaped connectors are for. These are for a more active code reading procedure called D-check mode in the Subaru manuals. To perform D-check, start with both connectors disconnected, start the engine, allow it to warm up, then turn it off. Next, connect the test mode connectors (green T-shape). Turn ignition to ON position without turning on engine. At this point if the check engine light does not come on, it is faulty and must be fixed before continuing. Depress accelerator pedal to floor, return to half throttle and hold for two seconds, then release. Start the engine. Now the light can blink in two different ways. If everything checks out so far, it will blink to indicate a number 01, 02, 03, 04, 05, 06, 07, or 08. If a problem is already detected, it will blink according to the chart below. Either way, your next step will be to drive the car with the test mode connectors connected. You must drive over 7 mph for at least one minute, and shift up to 4th gear if you have a manual tranny. Now, either you will discover any trouble codes, or if you have none it will blink at a steady rate.