Hi.
I have an A/C problem (I looked through the archives and I don't
think my problem has been covered).
I recently purchased my 90 Legacy LS (144K miles) from someone who
did a "little" work on the A/C system before he sold it to me. The
compressor locked up so he went to a junk yard, got a used one, and
installed it with R134a (he didn't get a new dryer, and I don't know
if he flushed the system first or put in 134a oil).
Sometimes the A/C works OK, sometimes it works (but it isn't very
cold), and other times the compressor cycles on/of every few seconds.
I've decided that the compressor cycles on/off when there is too much
freon in the system (I can see the low side pressure is high and when
I relieve the pressure the compressor starts to work again).
If I let out too much freon the A/C never gets cold enough.
I don't know if there is a slow leak somewhere, but it never stays in
the "runs OK" mode very long.
When I look in sight glass I see something that looks like mist (in
all three modes).
Has anyone else converted their R12 system to R134a successfully? If
so, what should the high and low side pressures be (as a side note,
how do you connect your gauge to the high side – the connector is a
different size)? Any guess on how bad my system may be? Should I get
it converted back to R12?
I need to have the A/C working (I live in the Phoenix area), but I
can wait until next summer to fix it correctly.
I would appreciate any help/advice/more appropriate massage
boards/ideas anyone has.
Thanks.
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BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
A/C Problem
Moderators: Helpinators, Moderators
-
Samuel Barrett
A/C Problem
Follow these steps:
1. Go to a Subaru authorized/certified service shop.
2. Pick up the latest edition of the "End Wrench" magazine (Spring 2001)
This is a quarterly publication and the feature on the latest is about A/C
Off hand, you might want to make sure the ventilation slider is properly
adjusted. Just to make sure you don't have the heater feeding the cold air
on accident and diluting the cool air from the A/C. But the description of
your problem sounds like something else.
According to FHI:
1. Start the engine and hold engine speed at 1,500 RPM
2. Set mode switch to A/C position
3. Set blower speed to maximum
4. Set temperature control lever to COLD position
5. Open all the windows
6. Check sight glass after the lapse of about 5 minutes. Judge according to
the following:
Almost no refrigerant: Bubbles flow continuously. Bubbles will disappear and
something like mist will flow when refrigerant is nearly gone.
Insufficient: The bubbles are seen at intervals of 1-2 seconds
Suitable: Almost transparent. Bubbles may appear when engine speed is raised
and lowered.
Too Much Refrigerant: No bubbles can be seen.
So, it sounds like you may have a major leak on your hands. So my friend,
unless you have access to some serious tools, and some VERY good directions.
I would just drive it to a certified Sube mechanic and let them play with
it.
Why do A/C systems leak? All it takes is a little air. Air and refrigerant
form a chemical reaction that releases hydrocloric acid. HCL and aluminum
don't mix very well, and eventually the aluminum comes up as the looser in
the equation. Over time a weakness (thin spot) has to give way and then you
have a full blown leak. No more coolant, no more cold air.
-Sambo
-----Original Message-----
From: yahoo@mintzer.com [mailto:yahoo@mintzer.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 9:30 PM
To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] A/C Problem
Hi.
I have an A/C problem (I looked through the archives and I don't
think my problem has been covered).
I recently purchased my 90 Legacy LS (144K miles) from someone who
did a "little" work on the A/C system before he sold it to me. The
compressor locked up so he went to a junk yard, got a used one, and
installed it with R134a (he didn't get a new dryer, and I don't know
if he flushed the system first or put in 134a oil).
Sometimes the A/C works OK, sometimes it works (but it isn't very
cold), and other times the compressor cycles on/of every few seconds.
I've decided that the compressor cycles on/off when there is too much
freon in the system (I can see the low side pressure is high and when
I relieve the pressure the compressor starts to work again).
If I let out too much freon the A/C never gets cold enough.
I don't know if there is a slow leak somewhere, but it never stays in
the "runs OK" mode very long.
When I look in sight glass I see something that looks like mist (in
all three modes).
Has anyone else converted their R12 system to R134a successfully? If
so, what should the high and low side pressures be (as a side note,
how do you connect your gauge to the high side – the connector is a
different size)? Any guess on how bad my system may be? Should I get
it converted back to R12?
I need to have the A/C working (I live in the Phoenix area), but I
can wait until next summer to fix it correctly.
I would appreciate any help/advice/more appropriate massage
boards/ideas anyone has.
Thanks.
To unsubscribe from this group, please send an email to:
BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
To unsubscribe from this group, please send an email to:
BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
1. Go to a Subaru authorized/certified service shop.
2. Pick up the latest edition of the "End Wrench" magazine (Spring 2001)
This is a quarterly publication and the feature on the latest is about A/C
Off hand, you might want to make sure the ventilation slider is properly
adjusted. Just to make sure you don't have the heater feeding the cold air
on accident and diluting the cool air from the A/C. But the description of
your problem sounds like something else.
According to FHI:
1. Start the engine and hold engine speed at 1,500 RPM
2. Set mode switch to A/C position
3. Set blower speed to maximum
4. Set temperature control lever to COLD position
5. Open all the windows
6. Check sight glass after the lapse of about 5 minutes. Judge according to
the following:
Almost no refrigerant: Bubbles flow continuously. Bubbles will disappear and
something like mist will flow when refrigerant is nearly gone.
Insufficient: The bubbles are seen at intervals of 1-2 seconds
Suitable: Almost transparent. Bubbles may appear when engine speed is raised
and lowered.
Too Much Refrigerant: No bubbles can be seen.
So, it sounds like you may have a major leak on your hands. So my friend,
unless you have access to some serious tools, and some VERY good directions.
I would just drive it to a certified Sube mechanic and let them play with
it.
Why do A/C systems leak? All it takes is a little air. Air and refrigerant
form a chemical reaction that releases hydrocloric acid. HCL and aluminum
don't mix very well, and eventually the aluminum comes up as the looser in
the equation. Over time a weakness (thin spot) has to give way and then you
have a full blown leak. No more coolant, no more cold air.
-Sambo
-----Original Message-----
From: yahoo@mintzer.com [mailto:yahoo@mintzer.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 18, 2001 9:30 PM
To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] A/C Problem
Hi.
I have an A/C problem (I looked through the archives and I don't
think my problem has been covered).
I recently purchased my 90 Legacy LS (144K miles) from someone who
did a "little" work on the A/C system before he sold it to me. The
compressor locked up so he went to a junk yard, got a used one, and
installed it with R134a (he didn't get a new dryer, and I don't know
if he flushed the system first or put in 134a oil).
Sometimes the A/C works OK, sometimes it works (but it isn't very
cold), and other times the compressor cycles on/of every few seconds.
I've decided that the compressor cycles on/off when there is too much
freon in the system (I can see the low side pressure is high and when
I relieve the pressure the compressor starts to work again).
If I let out too much freon the A/C never gets cold enough.
I don't know if there is a slow leak somewhere, but it never stays in
the "runs OK" mode very long.
When I look in sight glass I see something that looks like mist (in
all three modes).
Has anyone else converted their R12 system to R134a successfully? If
so, what should the high and low side pressures be (as a side note,
how do you connect your gauge to the high side – the connector is a
different size)? Any guess on how bad my system may be? Should I get
it converted back to R12?
I need to have the A/C working (I live in the Phoenix area), but I
can wait until next summer to fix it correctly.
I would appreciate any help/advice/more appropriate massage
boards/ideas anyone has.
Thanks.
To unsubscribe from this group, please send an email to:
BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
To unsubscribe from this group, please send an email to:
BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
-
yahoo@mintzer.com
A/C Problem
Thanks for the information.
I already contacted the local Subaru Dealer - $1300 for a new
compressor and dryer installed with R-12...
I think the vents are working correctly (based on the temperature of
the lines from/to the compressor)
I'll run the test you suggest and see what happens with my system.
Maybe I'll get a better idea of the charge.
I did look for any obvious leaks (you know, oil and dirt in any of
the A/C lines). I can't find any (though there could be a slow leak.)
I was hoping the system was $300 hosed instead of $1300. I'll let you
know what I find out. Thanks
------------------------ ---------------------~-->
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---------------------------------------------------------------------~->
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I already contacted the local Subaru Dealer - $1300 for a new
compressor and dryer installed with R-12...
I think the vents are working correctly (based on the temperature of
the lines from/to the compressor)
I'll run the test you suggest and see what happens with my system.
Maybe I'll get a better idea of the charge.
I did look for any obvious leaks (you know, oil and dirt in any of
the A/C lines). I can't find any (though there could be a slow leak.)
I was hoping the system was $300 hosed instead of $1300. I'll let you
know what I find out. Thanks
------------------------ ---------------------~-->
FREE COLLEGE MONEY
CLICK HERE to search
600,000 scholarships!
http://us.click.yahoo.com/47cccB/4m7CAA ... /XoTolB/TM
---------------------------------------------------------------------~->
To unsubscribe from this group, please send an email to:
BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
-
yahoo@mintzer.com
A/C Problem
I ran the tests you recommended. The "bubbles" indicate that my level
of freon is good (if you ignore the "mist" that is incorporated with
the big bubbles). I read somewhere that the bubbles with R12 may look
different than 134a – maybe that's why I get "mist" and big bubbles?
Anyway, the A/C seems to be working OK now. I'll probably just wait
and see how things go over then next few weeks…
Thanks.
------------------------ ---------------------~-->
FREE COLLEGE MONEY
CLICK HERE to search
600,000 scholarships!
http://us.click.yahoo.com/ujOgTC/4m7CAA ... /XoTolB/TM
---------------------------------------------------------------------~->
To unsubscribe from this group, please send an email to:
BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
of freon is good (if you ignore the "mist" that is incorporated with
the big bubbles). I read somewhere that the bubbles with R12 may look
different than 134a – maybe that's why I get "mist" and big bubbles?
Anyway, the A/C seems to be working OK now. I'll probably just wait
and see how things go over then next few weeks…
Thanks.
------------------------ ---------------------~-->
FREE COLLEGE MONEY
CLICK HERE to search
600,000 scholarships!
http://us.click.yahoo.com/ujOgTC/4m7CAA ... /XoTolB/TM
---------------------------------------------------------------------~->
To unsubscribe from this group, please send an email to:
BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com