Installing new CV axles

ericem · Post by **ericem** » Fri May 23, 2008 12:53 am

Hey guys just wondering. Got some axles (look awesome) anyway need to replace both front axles since both axles are knocking hardcore and have broken boots of course before doing a few hour road trip. In my mind Im thinking it is as simple as this, get my impact loosen the bolt for the axle, jack it in the air, take off the wheel remove the 3 top mount bolts lower the arm, pop out the pin on the diff side, slide it all out, install new one reverse all the steps. Sound correct??

Also these axles I bought are new EMPI axles. Think there is a place that will give me money for cores?

Thanks guys!!

ciper · Post by **ciper** » Fri May 23, 2008 1:07 am

No

Jack up car
Impact wrench off nut while friend holds brakes
Loosen lower ball joint
Drive out pin
Remove old axle
Install new axle
Drive in new pin
Reinstall ball joint
Torque axle nut while friend holds brakes
Hammer new nut
Lower car
Drive away

ericem · Post by **ericem** » Fri May 23, 2008 1:30 am

Awesome thanks alot. I have a torque wrench as well. What should I torque it down to? Think I can do 2 axles in under a few hours?

ciper · Post by **ciper** » Fri May 23, 2008 2:57 am

If you have the right tool to drive the pins out and a helper yes. I personally found that nothing better than a small phillips screwdriver with rotating top like the ones used for eyeglasses but bigger.

I usually torque the nut to 150 ft lbs.

ericem · Post by **ericem** » Sat May 24, 2008 4:34 am

Well got one axle in. Dealing with a seized caliper, got it apart, there was no boot on the upper slider, and there is a butt load of grease on everything on both sides. Either way right axle is in. Now I need to figure out how to get the pin in on the diff side. Any tips? Ill post pics later off the new axles and broken ones.

ciper · Post by **ciper** » Sat May 24, 2008 6:16 am

Use a flash light to make sure the holes are perfectly lined up. Then use a long 1/4" drive extension and put the female end over the pin and hammer the male end.

The pin should go in through the concave side of the axle hole.

ericem · Post by **ericem** » Sat May 24, 2008 4:33 pm

Ok thanks got the pin in. New problem, the fucken ball joint wont let go of the lower arm on the driver side!! Have loads of different rust sprays on it to. Ive been hitting it with a hammer, trying to make it let go with a crow bar. She won't give!!!!!!

ericem · Post by **ericem** » Sun May 25, 2008 6:16 pm

Ok update. There both in. got the ball joint to let go with a good old torch. Both axles are in and look awesome. What I found, two broken boots, lots of play, and one axle was thinner then the other axle. I have a funny feeling one of the axles was still original and the car has 310,000KM. Drives awesome made a worlds difference installing these axles, so much smoother, and with the new spark plug wires it responds much more nicely.

Now I need to narrow down my coolant leak. Supposedly was said to be the radiator, but the radiator looks completely dry! Could be the hoses because I see a puddle below one of the hoses at the bottom.

Question for you guys, does the transmission fluid go through the radiator? or the coolant goes through the transmission?

New92 · Post by **New92** » Mon May 26, 2008 1:15 pm

Um..no to both. You should not be able to trace any interconnecting hoses between the two systems.

ericem · Post by **ericem** » Tue May 27, 2008 12:01 am

I see two lines from the transmission going to the radiator. It is a automatic of course.

ciper · Post by **ciper** » Wed May 28, 2008 8:51 pm

A small cooler/heater is mounted inside the radiator for transmission fluid.

The reason your axles were different sizes was most likely that one was an AWD axle and the other was a FWD axle.

I bet you 2$ that the leak is from the plastic end tank on the radiator.

ericem · Post by **ericem** » Wed May 28, 2008 9:45 pm

ciper wrote:A small cooler/heater is mounted inside the radiator for transmission fluid.

The reason your axles were different sizes was most likely that one was an AWD axle and the other was a FWD axle.

I bet you 2$ that the leak is from the plastic end tank on the radiator.

what is the plastic end tank you mean the overflow tank?? I looked at the plastic ends of the radiator they look dry. Im very clueless, i went to subaru they are pretty damn sure its not headgaskets because it doesn't overheat when there is coolant, and the emisions passed with flying colours. I am looking everywhere, im total lost.

Going to fill up the radiator, its really weird though, overflow tank is empty, and the radiator doesn't have fluid at the top like normally, yet the engine doesn't overheat.

Right now I have new hoses, thermostat with gasket, and radiator cap. Just debating on the radiator, but the rad should be wet of course if it was leaking. Maybe its behind the fans. Actually now that i think about it, there is wet stain marks on the side with the overflow tank. but my dad said thats from spilling when we filled it. Going to take a closer look at the overflow tank.

ciper · Post by **ciper** » Wed May 28, 2008 9:50 pm

I meant the actual plastic ends of the radiator. ALL of them develop cracks that cannot be seen unless the system is under pressure. 90% of the time the crack is on the passenger side between the radiator and the bumper near the top.

Fill it up with coolant and find a place that has the little pump that will pressurize the system when the car is off. I bet you'll find it right away

Alternatively make sure its full, remove the top radiator mounts then run it hard for a few minutes then jump out and check the FRONT of the radiator by bending it towards the engine (since the mounts are removed).

BTW if you can't tell I fucking hate the Subaru radiators. First hand I've personally seen SOOOOOOO many cars ruined because of the damn things.

ericem · Post by **ericem** » Wed May 28, 2008 9:59 pm

Found it filled it up reved it, came outside. Ya its the rad picking up a rad that is the same 1 1/2 thickness for $150. Has 1 year warrenty. Not sure where else I should look for a rad. Im in Canada keep in mind, and a Subaru radiator is like $600 from the dealer.

Either way right now the car is doing amazing. After we replaced the axles, and spark plug wires, its like a new car. So smooth, and now were getting over 500km a tank in the city and there is still gas left (about 10+L). Should be even better once there is a OEM thermostat (last time we put a non oem which was stupid makes it run cooler).

ciper · Post by **ciper** » Wed May 28, 2008 10:35 pm

There is a good chance the aftermarket cheapo radiator is better than the dealer unit. If this is an auto consider buying the filter retrofit kit from the dealer. It bolts to the frame rail and looks totally stock.

Glad you could figure it out so fast

ericem · Post by **ericem** » Thu May 29, 2008 12:00 am

Thanks alot ciper. When you say filter retrofit kit you mean a filter for the transmission lines sending fluid back to the transmission right?

ciper · Post by **ciper** » Thu May 29, 2008 1:25 am

Yeah. I think there was a TSB for 1990's so most dealers still stock the part. It mounts similar to the fuel filter.

ericem · Post by **ericem** » Thu May 29, 2008 2:05 am

ciper wrote:Yeah. I think there was a TSB for 1990's so most dealers still stock the part. It mounts similar to the fuel filter.

Oh. You know just wondering. In the winter time my AWD does not work. Like for it to work at all I have to have been driving the car for more then a few hours straight.

Now that it's in the 20's outside the AWD works, tried launches on sand and gravel it's definitely AWD. So im wondering if getting the new radiator and when it runs at the correct temperature if that will fix the problem in the winter? I guess it was keeping the tranny fluid to cool for the winter.

ciper · Post by **ciper** » Thu May 29, 2008 9:25 am

Interesting! I know transmission fluid expands when hot, is yours low perhaps?

ericem · Post by **ericem** » Thu May 29, 2008 9:02 pm

ciper wrote:Interesting! I know transmission fluid expands when hot, is yours low perhaps?

To be honest haven't checked since I last changed the fluid like 40,000km ago.

BXSS · Post by **BXSS** » Fri May 30, 2008 3:53 pm

A few days late, but I always removed the 2 bolts holding the strut to the spindle off (after indexing/marking the cam bolts location on the strut) to get an axle out.
I hate messing with the ball joints because the boots break easily & I do not have much luck.

ericem · Post by **ericem** » Sat May 31, 2008 1:31 am

BXSS wrote:A few days late, but I always removed the 2 bolts holding the strut to the spindle off (after indexing/marking the cam bolts location on the strut) to get an axle out.
I hate messing with the ball joints because the boots break easily & I do not have much luck.

Ya I broke the boot lol. Ill just grease it up now every so often should be fine.

IronMonkeyL255 · Post by **IronMonkeyL255** » Sun Jun 01, 2008 5:37 pm

I always remove the balljoint from the knuckle. It's just one pinch bolt. Once you get it out for the first time, put some anti-seize on it to make it easier next time.

Also, you can drive a wedge into the split in the knuckle to help open it up and help the balljoint come out easier.

legacycentral bbs

A forum for 89-94 BC-BF(BJ) Legacy Owners and Fans

Installing new CV axles

Installing new CV axles