I am looking for comments and experienced advice on replacing the struts on
my 91 AWD Legacy Sedan. I have the Chilton's manual, but it has proved to
be wrong so often that I don't trust it much. If any one can send pages
from the Subary Legacy shop manual regarding this topic, it would be
appreciated.
Bubba-Ugly
_________________________________________________________________
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Any Advice on Replacing Struts?
Moderators: Helpinators, Moderators
-
Josh Colombo
Any Advice on Replacing Struts?
I can pretty much tell you everything you need to know about changin struts. I've had mine out and done some work a couple times.
I would recommend either KYB's GR2 strut, or if you want an adjustable, the AGX. I am pretty performance oriented and quite amazed at the GR2's performance.
As far as replacing the struts. You will need a spring compressor, you can rent one from local auto parts store.
First jack car up and secure. Then take wheels off, then remove the caliper, there is a bolt to remove the top part, and then can slide it off the guide pin. You can do one of two things. You can remove the brake line from the caliper and remove the caliper. You will need to bring the hose through the strut assembly. Other option is to not open up the brake system and cut a small slit in that tab, bend it back so you can get the brake line in. I personally would just open up the brake system....good time to bleed the brakes. If you do open up the lines, sorta wiggle the brake line up and try and get it tied up in near the top where it comes in the fender well. This will help keep fluid from draining out.
Finish removing calipers. You will need to get the rotor off next. Sometimes they will slide right off, other times you will need a puller. You again could rent one or buy one....I got tired of renting and just bought the sucker.....Take off the shield that helps direct air on the rotor.
Next you will be at the strut....there is two bolts at the base of the strut. I believe the top bolt is a camber bolt, etch or scrape a mark on the top of the bolt so when you put it back in, it will be in the same spot. I'm pretty sure it's the top bolt, but could be the bottom, just mark both to be safe. Get a big breaker bar or impact wrench to get these off. Once you got that done, remove the three nuts in the engine compartment that hold the strut on up top.....once you got everything loose, wiggle it out of there and repeat for the other side. Now you'll want to make a visual picture (mental or drawn) of how the spring is oriented and such. Take your spring compressor, compress spring, remove the dust cover thingy at the top, you'll see the big nut holding the top strut mount on. An impact wrench works the best to get that off because it sorta keeps it from spinning. If you don't have one....you'll have to vice grip the shaft (ONLY DO this on OLD ONE) At this time too you probably should repla
The rears are pretty much the same, except there isn't a shield to remove. The main difference is if you have a sedan, you will have to remove the back seat. There are two bolts holding the bottom portion on. Once you got them out you can lift up on the front of the bottom part of the seat, and sorta push back and down on the back part, and that should unhook the part that's connected to the back of the seat. Then there are three bolts holding on the back of the seat, remove them....lift the seat back straight up and unhook it, and wiggle out the back doors. You can take the black plastic mat off that's there if you want.....wouldn't hurt...it just gets in the way. You should be able to see the three bolts that hold on the struts at the top....it's a pain in the ass getting these off, a deep socket for 1/4" drive works the best. The rest of the instructions are pretty much the same as the front from here on out.
When you get done, if you open up the brake lines, you will need to bleed the lines, follow the bleeding sequence in chilton's manual. Also DO NOT open up master cylinder when you have the lines open....that is a BIG no no.
Only other thing is you will need a 4 wheel alignment.
This may sound a little daunting, but it's not too bad if you take your time and have a buddy around to help. You'll get a little faster after you do 1 or 2.
Any questions....just holler.
Josh
************************************
Josh Colombo
Josh@surrealmirage.com <mailto:Josh@surrealmirage.com> **NEW**
"Life, an ever-changing melody
of beats and rhythm" - ME
************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: Rex Sheldon [mailto:rexsheldon@hotmail.com]
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 7:34 PM
To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Any Advice on Replacing Struts?
I am looking for comments and experienced advice on replacing the struts on
my 91 AWD Legacy Sedan. I have the Chilton's manual, but it has proved to
be wrong so often that I don't trust it much. If any one can send pages
from the Subary Legacy shop manual regarding this topic, it would be
appreciated.
Bubba-Ugly
_________________________________________________________________
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To unsubscribe from this group, please send an email to:
BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
------------------------ ---------------------~-->
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---------------------------------------------------------------------~->
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I would recommend either KYB's GR2 strut, or if you want an adjustable, the AGX. I am pretty performance oriented and quite amazed at the GR2's performance.
As far as replacing the struts. You will need a spring compressor, you can rent one from local auto parts store.
First jack car up and secure. Then take wheels off, then remove the caliper, there is a bolt to remove the top part, and then can slide it off the guide pin. You can do one of two things. You can remove the brake line from the caliper and remove the caliper. You will need to bring the hose through the strut assembly. Other option is to not open up the brake system and cut a small slit in that tab, bend it back so you can get the brake line in. I personally would just open up the brake system....good time to bleed the brakes. If you do open up the lines, sorta wiggle the brake line up and try and get it tied up in near the top where it comes in the fender well. This will help keep fluid from draining out.
Finish removing calipers. You will need to get the rotor off next. Sometimes they will slide right off, other times you will need a puller. You again could rent one or buy one....I got tired of renting and just bought the sucker.....Take off the shield that helps direct air on the rotor.
Next you will be at the strut....there is two bolts at the base of the strut. I believe the top bolt is a camber bolt, etch or scrape a mark on the top of the bolt so when you put it back in, it will be in the same spot. I'm pretty sure it's the top bolt, but could be the bottom, just mark both to be safe. Get a big breaker bar or impact wrench to get these off. Once you got that done, remove the three nuts in the engine compartment that hold the strut on up top.....once you got everything loose, wiggle it out of there and repeat for the other side. Now you'll want to make a visual picture (mental or drawn) of how the spring is oriented and such. Take your spring compressor, compress spring, remove the dust cover thingy at the top, you'll see the big nut holding the top strut mount on. An impact wrench works the best to get that off because it sorta keeps it from spinning. If you don't have one....you'll have to vice grip the shaft (ONLY DO this on OLD ONE) At this time too you probably should repla
The rears are pretty much the same, except there isn't a shield to remove. The main difference is if you have a sedan, you will have to remove the back seat. There are two bolts holding the bottom portion on. Once you got them out you can lift up on the front of the bottom part of the seat, and sorta push back and down on the back part, and that should unhook the part that's connected to the back of the seat. Then there are three bolts holding on the back of the seat, remove them....lift the seat back straight up and unhook it, and wiggle out the back doors. You can take the black plastic mat off that's there if you want.....wouldn't hurt...it just gets in the way. You should be able to see the three bolts that hold on the struts at the top....it's a pain in the ass getting these off, a deep socket for 1/4" drive works the best. The rest of the instructions are pretty much the same as the front from here on out.
When you get done, if you open up the brake lines, you will need to bleed the lines, follow the bleeding sequence in chilton's manual. Also DO NOT open up master cylinder when you have the lines open....that is a BIG no no.
Only other thing is you will need a 4 wheel alignment.
This may sound a little daunting, but it's not too bad if you take your time and have a buddy around to help. You'll get a little faster after you do 1 or 2.
Any questions....just holler.
Josh
************************************
Josh Colombo
Josh@surrealmirage.com <mailto:Josh@surrealmirage.com> **NEW**
"Life, an ever-changing melody
of beats and rhythm" - ME
************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: Rex Sheldon [mailto:rexsheldon@hotmail.com]
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 7:34 PM
To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Any Advice on Replacing Struts?
I am looking for comments and experienced advice on replacing the struts on
my 91 AWD Legacy Sedan. I have the Chilton's manual, but it has proved to
be wrong so often that I don't trust it much. If any one can send pages
from the Subary Legacy shop manual regarding this topic, it would be
appreciated.
Bubba-Ugly
_________________________________________________________________
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
To unsubscribe from this group, please send an email to:
BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
------------------------ ---------------------~-->
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---------------------------------------------------------------------~->
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-
Rex Sheldon
Any Advice on Replacing Struts?
Thanks for the response. I am going with the KYB GR2 struts, as
recommended. The front struts are original, with 275,000 miles on them, and
the rears were replaced about 120,000 miles ago. The ride still isn't
terrible, although it is starting to sway a bit with a full load in the car.
I did not realize the bump stops could be worn, and I will have to examine
them when I take them off. The dust covers and upper strut mounts will also
have to be examined at the same time, I suppose. Is there a concern with
the springs at this time? I am not trying to build a rally car, rather I
want to keep the car running and relible.
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Josh Colombo" <josh@surrealmirage.com>
Reply-To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@yahoogroups.com
To: <BC-BFLegacyWorks@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Any Advice on Replacing Struts?
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 2100 -0600
I can pretty much tell you everything you need to know about changin struts.
I've had mine out and done some work a couple times.
I would recommend either KYB's GR2 strut, or if you want an adjustable, the
AGX. I am pretty performance oriented and quite amazed at the GR2's
performance.
As far as replacing the struts. You will need a spring compressor, you can
rent one from local auto parts store.
First jack car up and secure. Then take wheels off, then remove the
caliper, there is a bolt to remove the top part, and then can slide it off
the guide pin. You can do one of two things. You can remove the brake line
from the caliper and remove the caliper. You will need to bring the hose
through the strut assembly. Other option is to not open up the brake system
and cut a small slit in that tab, bend it back so you can get the brake line
in. I personally would just open up the brake system....good time to bleed
the brakes. If you do open up the lines, sorta wiggle the brake line up and
try and get it tied up in near the top where it comes in the fender well.
This will help keep fluid from draining out.
Finish removing calipers. You will need to get the rotor off next.
Sometimes they will slide right off, other times you will need a puller.
You again could rent one or buy one....I got tired of renting and just
bought the sucker.....Take off the shield that helps direct air on the
rotor.
Next you will be at the strut....there is two bolts at the base of the
strut. I believe the top bolt is a camber bolt, etch or scrape a mark on
the top of the bolt so when you put it back in, it will be in the same spot.
I'm pretty sure it's the top bolt, but could be the bottom, just mark both
to be safe. Get a big breaker bar or impact wrench to get these off. Once
you got that done, remove the three nuts in the engine compartment that hold
the strut on up top.....once you got everything loose, wiggle it out of
there and repeat for the other side. Now you'll want to make a visual
picture (mental or drawn) of how the spring is oriented and such. Take your
spring compressor, compress spring, remove the dust cover thingy at the top,
you'll see the big nut holding the top strut mount on. An impact wrench
works the best to get that off because it sorta keeps it from spinning. If
you don't have one....you'll have to vice grip the shaft (ONLY DO this on
OLD ONE) At this time too you probably should replace the dust boot covers
and the bump stops....I know my bump stops were disintegrated at 80k miles.
Take the compressed spring off the old strut, place it along with any rubber
shields or what not that was on the strut to the new strut, get your
alignment correct. Put new dust caps & bump stops on or transfer over old
ones. Replace the top mount on the new shaft, use the NEW NUT that is
supplied with the struts. Tighten to torqued specs (chilton's should say)
Slowly uncompress the spring, making sure the alignment is correct with top
mount. Replace dust seal on top, and assemble in reverse order. These are
the instructions for the front struts.
The rears are pretty much the same, except there isn't a shield to remove.
The main difference is if you have a sedan, you will have to remove the back
seat. There are two bolts holding the bottom portion on. Once you got them
out you can lift up on the front of the bottom part of the seat, and sorta
push back and down on the back part, and that should unhook the part that's
connected to the back of the seat. Then there are three bolts holding on
the back of the seat, remove them....lift the seat back straight up and
unhook it, and wiggle out the back doors. You can take the black plastic
mat off that's there if you want.....wouldn't hurt...it just gets in the
way. You should be able to see the three bolts that hold on the struts at
the top....it's a pain in the ass getting these off, a deep socket for 1/4"
drive works the best. The rest of the instructions are pretty much the same
as the front from here on out.
When you get done, if you open up the brake lines, you will need to bleed
the lines, follow the bleeding sequence in chilton's manual. Also DO NOT
open up master cylinder when you have the lines open....that is a BIG no no.
Only other thing is you will need a 4 wheel alignment.
This may sound a little daunting, but it's not too bad if you take your time
and have a buddy around to help. You'll get a little faster after you do 1
or 2.
Any questions....just holler.
Josh
************************************
Josh Colombo
Josh@surrealmirage.com <mailto:Josh@surrealmirage.com> **NEW**
"Life, an ever-changing melody
of beats and rhythm" - ME
************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: Rex Sheldon [mailto:rexsheldon@hotmail.com]
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 7:34 PM
To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Any Advice on Replacing Struts?
I am looking for comments and experienced advice on replacing the struts on
my 91 AWD Legacy Sedan. I have the Chilton's manual, but it has proved to
be wrong so often that I don't trust it much. If any one can send pages
from the Subary Legacy shop manual regarding this topic, it would be
appreciated.
Bubba-Ugly
_________________________________________________________________
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
To unsubscribe from this group, please send an email to:
BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
_________________________________________________________________
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------------------------ ---------------------~-->
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---------------------------------------------------------------------~->
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recommended. The front struts are original, with 275,000 miles on them, and
the rears were replaced about 120,000 miles ago. The ride still isn't
terrible, although it is starting to sway a bit with a full load in the car.
I did not realize the bump stops could be worn, and I will have to examine
them when I take them off. The dust covers and upper strut mounts will also
have to be examined at the same time, I suppose. Is there a concern with
the springs at this time? I am not trying to build a rally car, rather I
want to keep the car running and relible.
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Josh Colombo" <josh@surrealmirage.com>
Reply-To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@yahoogroups.com
To: <BC-BFLegacyWorks@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Any Advice on Replacing Struts?
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 2100 -0600
I can pretty much tell you everything you need to know about changin struts.
I've had mine out and done some work a couple times.
I would recommend either KYB's GR2 strut, or if you want an adjustable, the
AGX. I am pretty performance oriented and quite amazed at the GR2's
performance.
As far as replacing the struts. You will need a spring compressor, you can
rent one from local auto parts store.
First jack car up and secure. Then take wheels off, then remove the
caliper, there is a bolt to remove the top part, and then can slide it off
the guide pin. You can do one of two things. You can remove the brake line
from the caliper and remove the caliper. You will need to bring the hose
through the strut assembly. Other option is to not open up the brake system
and cut a small slit in that tab, bend it back so you can get the brake line
in. I personally would just open up the brake system....good time to bleed
the brakes. If you do open up the lines, sorta wiggle the brake line up and
try and get it tied up in near the top where it comes in the fender well.
This will help keep fluid from draining out.
Finish removing calipers. You will need to get the rotor off next.
Sometimes they will slide right off, other times you will need a puller.
You again could rent one or buy one....I got tired of renting and just
bought the sucker.....Take off the shield that helps direct air on the
rotor.
Next you will be at the strut....there is two bolts at the base of the
strut. I believe the top bolt is a camber bolt, etch or scrape a mark on
the top of the bolt so when you put it back in, it will be in the same spot.
I'm pretty sure it's the top bolt, but could be the bottom, just mark both
to be safe. Get a big breaker bar or impact wrench to get these off. Once
you got that done, remove the three nuts in the engine compartment that hold
the strut on up top.....once you got everything loose, wiggle it out of
there and repeat for the other side. Now you'll want to make a visual
picture (mental or drawn) of how the spring is oriented and such. Take your
spring compressor, compress spring, remove the dust cover thingy at the top,
you'll see the big nut holding the top strut mount on. An impact wrench
works the best to get that off because it sorta keeps it from spinning. If
you don't have one....you'll have to vice grip the shaft (ONLY DO this on
OLD ONE) At this time too you probably should replace the dust boot covers
and the bump stops....I know my bump stops were disintegrated at 80k miles.
Take the compressed spring off the old strut, place it along with any rubber
shields or what not that was on the strut to the new strut, get your
alignment correct. Put new dust caps & bump stops on or transfer over old
ones. Replace the top mount on the new shaft, use the NEW NUT that is
supplied with the struts. Tighten to torqued specs (chilton's should say)
Slowly uncompress the spring, making sure the alignment is correct with top
mount. Replace dust seal on top, and assemble in reverse order. These are
the instructions for the front struts.
The rears are pretty much the same, except there isn't a shield to remove.
The main difference is if you have a sedan, you will have to remove the back
seat. There are two bolts holding the bottom portion on. Once you got them
out you can lift up on the front of the bottom part of the seat, and sorta
push back and down on the back part, and that should unhook the part that's
connected to the back of the seat. Then there are three bolts holding on
the back of the seat, remove them....lift the seat back straight up and
unhook it, and wiggle out the back doors. You can take the black plastic
mat off that's there if you want.....wouldn't hurt...it just gets in the
way. You should be able to see the three bolts that hold on the struts at
the top....it's a pain in the ass getting these off, a deep socket for 1/4"
drive works the best. The rest of the instructions are pretty much the same
as the front from here on out.
When you get done, if you open up the brake lines, you will need to bleed
the lines, follow the bleeding sequence in chilton's manual. Also DO NOT
open up master cylinder when you have the lines open....that is a BIG no no.
Only other thing is you will need a 4 wheel alignment.
This may sound a little daunting, but it's not too bad if you take your time
and have a buddy around to help. You'll get a little faster after you do 1
or 2.
Any questions....just holler.
Josh
************************************
Josh Colombo
Josh@surrealmirage.com <mailto:Josh@surrealmirage.com> **NEW**
"Life, an ever-changing melody
of beats and rhythm" - ME
************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: Rex Sheldon [mailto:rexsheldon@hotmail.com]
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 7:34 PM
To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Any Advice on Replacing Struts?
I am looking for comments and experienced advice on replacing the struts on
my 91 AWD Legacy Sedan. I have the Chilton's manual, but it has proved to
be wrong so often that I don't trust it much. If any one can send pages
from the Subary Legacy shop manual regarding this topic, it would be
appreciated.
Bubba-Ugly
_________________________________________________________________
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
To unsubscribe from this group, please send an email to:
BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
------------------------ ---------------------~-->
Unlimited PC-PC calling at Crystal Voice! - Only $1/Mo.
Download your free 30 day trial. Click here.
http://us.click.yahoo.com/Gb1xVB/GxbDAA ... /XoTolB/TM
---------------------------------------------------------------------~->
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-
Josh Colombo
Any Advice on Replacing Struts?
Well honestly I was told that the springs would last the life of the vehicle. I would probably assume if you replaced them you would probably get some better handling, but as to reliability I don't think they would fail. But if you got the money and want to do it....I'd at the very least look into it. You will most likely see an incredible increase in handling with the new struts.
-----Original Message-----
From: Rex Sheldon [mailto:rexsheldon@hotmail.com]
Sent: Tue 12/18/2001 8:24 AM
To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@yahoogroups.com
Cc:
Subject: RE: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Any Advice on Replacing Struts?
Thanks for the response. I am going with the KYB GR2 struts, as
recommended. The front struts are original, with 275,000 miles on them, and
the rears were replaced about 120,000 miles ago. The ride still isn't
terrible, although it is starting to sway a bit with a full load in the car.
I did not realize the bump stops could be worn, and I will have to examine
them when I take them off. The dust covers and upper strut mounts will also
have to be examined at the same time, I suppose. Is there a concern with
the springs at this time? I am not trying to build a rally car, rather I
want to keep the car running and relible.
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Josh Colombo" <josh@surrealmirage.com>
Reply-To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@yahoogroups.com
To: <BC-BFLegacyWorks@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Any Advice on Replacing Struts?
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 2100 -0600
I can pretty much tell you everything you need to know about changin struts.
I've had mine out and done some work a couple times.
I would recommend either KYB's GR2 strut, or if you want an adjustable, the
AGX. I am pretty performance oriented and quite amazed at the GR2's
performance.
As far as replacing the struts. You will need a spring compressor, you can
rent one from local auto parts store.
First jack car up and secure. Then take wheels off, then remove the
caliper, there is a bolt to remove the top part, and then can slide it off
the guide pin. You can do one of two things. You can remove the brake line
from the caliper and remove the caliper. You will need to bring the hose
through the strut assembly. Other option is to not open up the brake system
and cut a small slit in that tab, bend it back so you can get the brake line
in. I personally would just open up the brake system....good time to bleed
the brakes. If you do open up the lines, sorta wiggle the brake line up and
try and get it tied up in near the top where it comes in the fender well.
This will help keep fluid from draining out.
Finish removing calipers. You will need to get the rotor off next.
Sometimes they will slide right off, other times you will need a puller.
You again could rent one or buy one....I got tired of renting and just
bought the sucker.....Take off the shield that helps direct air on the
rotor.
Next you will be at the strut....there is two bolts at the base of the
strut. I believe the top bolt is a camber bolt, etch or scrape a mark on
the top of the bolt so when you put it back in, it will be in the same spot.
I'm pretty sure it's the top bolt, but could be the bottom, just mark both
to be safe. Get a big breaker bar or impact wrench to get these off. Once
you got that done, remove the three nuts in the engine compartment that hold
the strut on up top.....once you got everything loose, wiggle it out of
there and repeat for the other side. Now you'll want to make a visual
picture (mental or drawn) of how the spring is oriented and such. Take your
spring compressor, compress spring, remove the dust cover thingy at the top,
you'll see the big nut holding the top strut mount on. An impact wrench
works the best to get that off because it sorta keeps it from spinning. If
you don't have one....you'll have to vice grip the shaft (ONLY DO this on
OLD ONE) At this time too you probably should replace the dust boot covers
and the bump stops....I know my bump stops were disintegrated at 80k miles.
Take the compressed spring off the old strut, place it along with any rubber
shields or what not that was on the strut to the new strut, get your
alignment correct. Put new dust caps & bump stops on or transfer over old
ones. Replace the top mount on the new shaft, use the NEW NUT that is
supplied with the struts. Tighten to torqued specs (chilton's should say)
Slowly uncompress the spring, making sure the alignment is correct with top
mount. Replace dust seal on top, and assemble in reverse order. These are
the instructions for the front struts.
The rears are pretty much the same, except there isn't a shield to remove.
The main difference is if you have a sedan, you will have to remove the back
seat. There are two bolts holding the bottom portion on. Once you got them
out you can lift up on the front of the bottom part of the seat, and sorta
push back and down on the back part, and that should unhook the part that's
connected to the back of the seat. Then there are three bolts holding on
the back of the seat, remove them....lift the seat back straight up and
unhook it, and wiggle out the back doors. You can take the black plastic
mat off that's there if you want.....wouldn't hurt...it just gets in the
way. You should be able to see the three bolts that hold on the struts at
the top....it's a pain in the ass getting these off, a deep socket for 1/4"
drive works the best. The rest of the instructions are pretty much the same
as the front from here on out.
When you get done, if you open up the brake lines, you will need to bleed
the lines, follow the bleeding sequence in chilton's manual. Also DO NOT
open up master cylinder when you have the lines open....that is a BIG no no.
Only other thing is you will need a 4 wheel alignment.
This may sound a little daunting, but it's not too bad if you take your time
and have a buddy around to help. You'll get a little faster after you do 1
or 2.
Any questions....just holler.
Josh
************************************
Josh Colombo
Josh@surrealmirage.com <mailto:Josh@surrealmirage.com> **NEW**
"Life, an ever-changing melody
of beats and rhythm" - ME
************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: Rex Sheldon [mailto:rexsheldon@hotmail.com]
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 7:34 PM
To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Any Advice on Replacing Struts?
I am looking for comments and experienced advice on replacing the struts on
my 91 AWD Legacy Sedan. I have the Chilton's manual, but it has proved to
be wrong so often that I don't trust it much. If any one can send pages
from the Subary Legacy shop manual regarding this topic, it would be
appreciated.
Bubba-Ugly
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-----Original Message-----
From: Rex Sheldon [mailto:rexsheldon@hotmail.com]
Sent: Tue 12/18/2001 8:24 AM
To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@yahoogroups.com
Cc:
Subject: RE: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Any Advice on Replacing Struts?
Thanks for the response. I am going with the KYB GR2 struts, as
recommended. The front struts are original, with 275,000 miles on them, and
the rears were replaced about 120,000 miles ago. The ride still isn't
terrible, although it is starting to sway a bit with a full load in the car.
I did not realize the bump stops could be worn, and I will have to examine
them when I take them off. The dust covers and upper strut mounts will also
have to be examined at the same time, I suppose. Is there a concern with
the springs at this time? I am not trying to build a rally car, rather I
want to keep the car running and relible.
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Josh Colombo" <josh@surrealmirage.com>
Reply-To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@yahoogroups.com
To: <BC-BFLegacyWorks@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Any Advice on Replacing Struts?
Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2001 2100 -0600
I can pretty much tell you everything you need to know about changin struts.
I've had mine out and done some work a couple times.
I would recommend either KYB's GR2 strut, or if you want an adjustable, the
AGX. I am pretty performance oriented and quite amazed at the GR2's
performance.
As far as replacing the struts. You will need a spring compressor, you can
rent one from local auto parts store.
First jack car up and secure. Then take wheels off, then remove the
caliper, there is a bolt to remove the top part, and then can slide it off
the guide pin. You can do one of two things. You can remove the brake line
from the caliper and remove the caliper. You will need to bring the hose
through the strut assembly. Other option is to not open up the brake system
and cut a small slit in that tab, bend it back so you can get the brake line
in. I personally would just open up the brake system....good time to bleed
the brakes. If you do open up the lines, sorta wiggle the brake line up and
try and get it tied up in near the top where it comes in the fender well.
This will help keep fluid from draining out.
Finish removing calipers. You will need to get the rotor off next.
Sometimes they will slide right off, other times you will need a puller.
You again could rent one or buy one....I got tired of renting and just
bought the sucker.....Take off the shield that helps direct air on the
rotor.
Next you will be at the strut....there is two bolts at the base of the
strut. I believe the top bolt is a camber bolt, etch or scrape a mark on
the top of the bolt so when you put it back in, it will be in the same spot.
I'm pretty sure it's the top bolt, but could be the bottom, just mark both
to be safe. Get a big breaker bar or impact wrench to get these off. Once
you got that done, remove the three nuts in the engine compartment that hold
the strut on up top.....once you got everything loose, wiggle it out of
there and repeat for the other side. Now you'll want to make a visual
picture (mental or drawn) of how the spring is oriented and such. Take your
spring compressor, compress spring, remove the dust cover thingy at the top,
you'll see the big nut holding the top strut mount on. An impact wrench
works the best to get that off because it sorta keeps it from spinning. If
you don't have one....you'll have to vice grip the shaft (ONLY DO this on
OLD ONE) At this time too you probably should replace the dust boot covers
and the bump stops....I know my bump stops were disintegrated at 80k miles.
Take the compressed spring off the old strut, place it along with any rubber
shields or what not that was on the strut to the new strut, get your
alignment correct. Put new dust caps & bump stops on or transfer over old
ones. Replace the top mount on the new shaft, use the NEW NUT that is
supplied with the struts. Tighten to torqued specs (chilton's should say)
Slowly uncompress the spring, making sure the alignment is correct with top
mount. Replace dust seal on top, and assemble in reverse order. These are
the instructions for the front struts.
The rears are pretty much the same, except there isn't a shield to remove.
The main difference is if you have a sedan, you will have to remove the back
seat. There are two bolts holding the bottom portion on. Once you got them
out you can lift up on the front of the bottom part of the seat, and sorta
push back and down on the back part, and that should unhook the part that's
connected to the back of the seat. Then there are three bolts holding on
the back of the seat, remove them....lift the seat back straight up and
unhook it, and wiggle out the back doors. You can take the black plastic
mat off that's there if you want.....wouldn't hurt...it just gets in the
way. You should be able to see the three bolts that hold on the struts at
the top....it's a pain in the ass getting these off, a deep socket for 1/4"
drive works the best. The rest of the instructions are pretty much the same
as the front from here on out.
When you get done, if you open up the brake lines, you will need to bleed
the lines, follow the bleeding sequence in chilton's manual. Also DO NOT
open up master cylinder when you have the lines open....that is a BIG no no.
Only other thing is you will need a 4 wheel alignment.
This may sound a little daunting, but it's not too bad if you take your time
and have a buddy around to help. You'll get a little faster after you do 1
or 2.
Any questions....just holler.
Josh
************************************
Josh Colombo
Josh@surrealmirage.com <mailto:Josh@surrealmirage.com> **NEW**
"Life, an ever-changing melody
of beats and rhythm" - ME
************************************
-----Original Message-----
From: Rex Sheldon [mailto:rexsheldon@hotmail.com]
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 7:34 PM
To: BC-BFLegacyWorks@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BC-BFLegacyWorks] Any Advice on Replacing Struts?
I am looking for comments and experienced advice on replacing the struts on
my 91 AWD Legacy Sedan. I have the Chilton's manual, but it has proved to
be wrong so often that I don't trust it much. If any one can send pages
from the Subary Legacy shop manual regarding this topic, it would be
appreciated.
Bubba-Ugly
_________________________________________________________________
Send and receive Hotmail on your mobile device: http://mobile.msn.com
To unsubscribe from this group, please send an email to:
BC-BFLegacyWorks-unsubscribe@egroups.com
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
------------------------ ---------------------~-->
Unlimited PC-PC calling at Crystal Voice! - Only $1/Mo.
Download your free 30 day trial. Click here.
http://us.click.yahoo.com/Gb1xVB/GxbDAA ... /XoTolB/TM
---------------------------------------------------------------------~->
To unsubscribe from this group, please send an email to:
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